Coco Chanel 1984 Eau de Parfum

This never fails: Absolutely every single time I have worn Coco (vintage parfum) I have gotten more male attention than I know what to do with. I have tested it while all dressed up, dressed for business, and frankly dressed down in all frumpy glory, sweats and Uggs headed to the convenience store, stringy hair and all.
And everytime, it's the same thing: the guys are acting like I'm some kind of cat in heat releasing clouds of "f*ck me" scent, it's unbelievable.

I have tested it while out with my man, and even with his 6'6" frame looming over me, they still give me huge smiles and try to make conversation while tripping all over themselves.

The thing is, Coco is not even my favorite scent, lol. I don't believe it smells all that differently on me than it does on other women, so I cannot explain its effects because no other perfume does that, on me.
I've gotten compliments on various fragrances, sure.
But Coco is the one scent I flat out refuse to wear if I'm not ready to handle loads of male attention.

So what does it smell like?
It's an oriental built on a major amber chord, introduced by dried peaches and spices, resting on a smooth, warm leather base.
The flowers keep the scent from getting too butch, too masculine, and the musk/civet combo impart that "almost too personal" feel that has some people blush up to their ears.
But many fragrances have musk and civet in them, but not all of those act as mating juice, so WHAT is it about Coco?

It is, I believe, a spice that is missing from the above list, but that is a key player from the heart notes to the base and remains a constant throughout the entire drydown: The spice is called Cascarilla, it is originally from the Caribbean, and it is used to flavor various alcoholic drinks. Its scent is similar to some musks, albeit with a clear aromatic edge, and it is known for its euphoric and calming properties.
(depending on the dosage, it can be a tonic or a mild sedative)
But in some cultures, Cascarilla is also touted as an aphrodisiac, though I have not been able to find out if it is by ingestion or purely by olfaction.

Whatever it is, I really believe that this note, blended with the rest of the composition, is responsible for the success of Coco on the market (It was, at one time, a top seller in Europe) and the reason for so many unexplained incidents in its sillage vicinity, lol.

Licentious mischief, to say the least.

This classic and timeless fragrance is jawdroppingly beautiful and complex. I am fortunate to have the edp, and I wouldn't trade that bottle for anything.

It's been said a thousand times, but Coco's gorgeous opening consists of a perfect blend of peach, spice, and rose.

The heart blossoms gradually, with a soft rose note leading the way. The spiciness continues, but shifts to a gentle clove, and is accompanied by the freshness of orange blossom. It is hard to separate the notes here, because they are so brilliantly intertwined, but in time, the rose and mimosa sinuously wind their tendrils into the rich base.

The labdanum in this thick, resiny base contributes to its sweet amber texture. The presence of civet (not overdone!) reminds you that although Coco is masterfully crafted, she remains untamed.

No one should be without Coco.

So then, I've made a full circle! Back in 1985 when Coco was launched in South Africa, I had a part time job with the company that oversaw its release here. I participated in the launch in various department stores with great gusto, liberally dousing myself and anyone within arm's reach! The commercial played relentlessly on monitors all around the store and I became enamoured of Ines de la Fressange, Lagerfeld's muse at the time and also the face of Coco. It was around this time that I was dared to enter my first drag pageant ... Miss Gay Legs. On the way to the club a friend asked "what will you call yourself?" Drenched in Coco as I was and poured into the tightest black cocktail dress I could find (I seem to remember ruffles cascading over my right shoulder and lots of tight drapes) I barely gave it a thought and said "Ines ... of course!".

Coco is as hypnotic as it ever was! I am in a rose/wood phase at the moment and happened across a well priced EDP on Ebay. Best purchase of the year!!!

An orchestra of light peach and delicious, heady rose leads to a winding path, softly caressed by moonlight and trailing Jasmine. Dare she find out where it goes? As Coco deepens she becomes sultry and sensuous ... a wanton woman grabbing a trumpet from a player in a dimly lit Jazz club. She kicks off her black suede stiletto's and climbs atop a table ... wet red lips serenading the night with dripping tones.

Ok Ok ... so I have an overactive immagination LOL. Isn't that what fragrance is supposed to do?

Chanel has had its ups and downs with me over the years, yet the older I become, the more I appreciate their diverse range of classics. Coco was a surprise when I wore it for the first time. It settled on my skin like Coco and I were meant to be.

Clove is the most dominant note in this composition, yet it is presented in a way that is very hard to resist. The scent is almost delicious, like something I'd assume is edible. The white floral accords counteract nicely with the spices I find, providing a rich warmth and a hint of elegance.

All that talk about Coco being a mature scent is a pile of hogwash. I adore it and I'm young and wild as the wind itself. The scent also lasts and lasts. I have been known to sleep the whole night and wake up with Coco still lingering quite strongly on my wrist before my morning shower. With longevity like this it deserves to be commended.

The drydown was absolutely divine on my skin with a beautiful blend of rich vanilla, making this fragrance's composition the result of a very talented and masterful perfumer.

Some resiny perfume materials have acid overtones. (1)
These off notes can be felt when resins or balsams are used in large quantities, and their unpleasant effects can be prominent in what Arctander calls ambra(1) perfumes.
When this happens it’s common for perfumers to hide or disguise the offending notes.

Coco doesn’t try to hide its acid overtone but instead (like Youth-Dew) it aims to disguise it by mixing and matching, in this case with a spicy accord, which also has peppery and burnt sugar tonalities. These are backed up by the gritty indole of orange flower, and the woody, earthy, spicy and camphoraceous elements of patchouli. (2)

Because ambras tend to be base heavy they are long and linear. And this is the case with Coco. The acid overtone stretches way down into the body, making Coco feel purse-lipped after a while, although there is a powdery sandal and balsam note in the drydown which softens it up a little.

There’s some sweetness, but it’s kept well back (for an Amber) and overall, Coco feels dry and acid-sour as well as sweet. Which is a brave and admirable ploy on the part of Chanel and Jacques Polge, or maybe they were just making a virtue of necessity. But all the same, I find it rather stark, and starkness isn’t something I want from an amber.

(Vintage sample, nearly empty)

(1) Steffen Arctander – Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin
(2) thegoodscentscompany.com