09/09/2016

BrianBuchanan
351 Reviews

BrianBuchanan
Helpful Review
5
Excelent Exclusif
Chanel released two colognes designed by Jacques Polge in 2007, Allure Homme Sport Cologne Sport and the Exclusif.
The strategy reminds me of that used by motor manufacturers who make their cars in a range of models to suit various budgets.
These two colognes are built around the same chassis of a hard and bright lemon & grapefruit accord. Allure is the basic, entry level runaround made to a strict budget, and Eau de Cologne de Chanel has all the trimmings you'd expect from a top of the range model.
They both launch on the same basic citrus accord, but here it's decorated with lime, sweetness, and powdery and woody nuances that soften the citrus and broaden its effect ready for what comes next.
It's when you get into the luxury floral interior that the real magic starts. With quality ingredients like bitter orange, neroli, and decent musk, as well as Chanel's own Grasse jasmin, rose, lavender and spice, it makes for a smooth elegant ride.
The other difference between Allure's basic saloon and the Exclusif limousine must be the care and attention lavished on the evolution and detailing. It holds a fine balance between shiny and matt, acid and sweet, hard and soft.
Crucially, the citrus head accord remains crisp and true deep into the floral heart, keeping the profile's integrity as a cologne. It feels as though its been made to the same standards of excellence as the EdT's.
Cologne de Chanel is classified as feminine but for the first three hours or so it conjours up for me Saville Row shirts and high class tailoring, but then, it makes a swerve to the feminine as the powdery sweet musky drydown starts to break through the citrus glass ceiling.
It's a traditional structure that relies on superb materials and great design for its success - rather than innovation - and so, in this conservative context, I think the mild sense of gender realignment that happens in the base is a negative.
However, despite that, this is one of the best colognes there is.
The strategy reminds me of that used by motor manufacturers who make their cars in a range of models to suit various budgets.
These two colognes are built around the same chassis of a hard and bright lemon & grapefruit accord. Allure is the basic, entry level runaround made to a strict budget, and Eau de Cologne de Chanel has all the trimmings you'd expect from a top of the range model.
They both launch on the same basic citrus accord, but here it's decorated with lime, sweetness, and powdery and woody nuances that soften the citrus and broaden its effect ready for what comes next.
It's when you get into the luxury floral interior that the real magic starts. With quality ingredients like bitter orange, neroli, and decent musk, as well as Chanel's own Grasse jasmin, rose, lavender and spice, it makes for a smooth elegant ride.
The other difference between Allure's basic saloon and the Exclusif limousine must be the care and attention lavished on the evolution and detailing. It holds a fine balance between shiny and matt, acid and sweet, hard and soft.
Crucially, the citrus head accord remains crisp and true deep into the floral heart, keeping the profile's integrity as a cologne. It feels as though its been made to the same standards of excellence as the EdT's.
Cologne de Chanel is classified as feminine but for the first three hours or so it conjours up for me Saville Row shirts and high class tailoring, but then, it makes a swerve to the feminine as the powdery sweet musky drydown starts to break through the citrus glass ceiling.
It's a traditional structure that relies on superb materials and great design for its success - rather than innovation - and so, in this conservative context, I think the mild sense of gender realignment that happens in the base is a negative.
However, despite that, this is one of the best colognes there is.