Sycomore 2008 Eau de Toilette

Version from 2008
Sycomore (2008) (Eau de Toilette) by Chanel
Bottle Design Jacques Helleu
Top 38 in Women's Perfume
8.5 / 10 491 Ratings
Sycomore (2008) (Eau de Toilette) is a popular perfume by Chanel for women and was released in 2008. The scent is woody-spicy. The longevity is above-average. The production was apparently discontinued. Pronunciation

Main accords

Woody
Spicy
Green
Earthy
Smoky

Fragrance Notes

VetiverVetiver CypressCypress JuniperJuniper SandalwoodSandalwood AldehydesAldehydes Pink pepperPink pepper SpicesSpices TobaccoTobacco VioletViolet

Perfumers

Ratings
Scent
8.5491 Ratings
Longevity
8.1362 Ratings
Sillage
6.8355 Ratings
Bottle
8.4323 Ratings
Value for money
6.830 Ratings
Submitted by DonVanVliet, last update on 23.04.2023.
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Reviews

13 in-depth fragrance descriptions
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
10
Scent
Torfdoen
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Torfdoen
Torfdoen
Top Review 25  
The path taken Part 1
Two paths led into a yellow forest. And since I'm a perfume wanderer, I took them both. I didn't stand around for long, but walked the darker, feral ones first. You can always go back if you don't like it, I thought. In the thicket, I lost my sight.

The branches are sharp and deeply rooted. A little harsh, I think, at first. A sip from the flask soothes the first impression. Heidewitzka, what is this strong stuff! In a slightly milder mood, I take a look at the surroundings. Genuine liquorice, moss-covered, releases essential oils after breaking. Juniper bushes, planted along the side of the inaccurate path, point the way with their typical warm spicy aroma. The earth steams in the first hours of the morning. I'm rolling myself a cigarette. It was the right decision. The dense forest eclipse glistens in the incoming sunshine. Colours come into play. Green orange. Earthy red. The warming dullness gives way to a noble freshness.

Arriving on a wide plain, conifers sway in the warm wind, crickets chirp through densely overgrown, half-dried grasses. The scent of wild pepper orange trees wafts around me, reminds me of the earthy warm liquorice haze of the forest. I look back and see no darkness. Merely the alcoholic sharpness of the entrance, makes me question my flask again. Then I come across a whole field of salty-juicy sweet grass perennials, which exalt their typical citrus-nutty smoke in outstanding mildness, yet strong and full. The sky does not occupy a living cloud. The way is long lost. The distance the goal.

How nice to have chosen the dark path. The naturalness of the landscape has an electrifying effect. It can't be perfume, I think. I walk through the fields in a dream, pulling my hat lower, lying under a woody, ossified tree that offers no shade. Endless impressions. The filter jumps to harmony. A better reflection of nature. That's heretical, I think. And subtle. A man-made natural spectacle. A natural human spectacle. A rough, pretend idyll.

Be that as it may. I lie in the middle of it, it suits me, I never want to leave.
This Lutens Sheldrake, that's one, I think, in ecstatic happiness. Chanel episode, I still think
Yes, something's pushing me back...
16 Replies
Intersport
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Intersport
Intersport
Top Review 16  
1930, 1957, 1959, 2002, 2008, 2016
Vétiver, this clearly multifaceted ingredient experienced a remarkable boom in the period 2002 - 2010 that seems to still be going on, so regularly do Vétiver titled perfumes appear. The austere masters of Carven, Givenchy and Guerlain were at this time almost half a century behind, in the 70's 80's and 90's there were only sporadic, but wonderfully sophisticated and differentiated interpretations, including Jean Laporte, Goutal, Etro.

What now has initiated the vétiver focus again, is questionable, trends in fragrances, new developments in distillation processes? Something like this is what Fréderic Malle claims: around this time, Laboratoires Monique Remy would have introduced a new vétiver extract, making up part of Vétiver Extraordinaire (2002), a fragrance that certainly also opened a new round of conservative-analytical-precise vétivers. Comme des Garçons Vettiveru from the same year is infinitely softer and a timeless lightweight vétiver that doesn't hide its proximity to Givenchy's classic. Serge Lutens' Vétiver Oriental (2002 - my attempts here to correct the date of this perfume despite triple 'evidence' always fail - so be it) is the most original throw of this decade with its indirect vétiver that still polarizes as to how far it is still a vétiver or already something else. These three vétivers, all from 2002 perhaps offer perspective on Sycomore, which for me offers a synopsis of many vétiver facets from smoky, balsamic, sweet to dry. Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake have refined much that has been charted in the vétivers field since 2002, detail by detail, in Sycomore.

As with Vétiver Oriental - also designed by Sheldrake - there is enough modulation through sandalwood, cypress, Chanel aldhydes, and minimal tobacco that Sycomore can be read as both a vétiver and a far more layered one - the perfume wants to be more than Chanel's vétiver, that it's called Sycomore is a welcome change from the ingredient names that have become more and more prevalent in these years, but also - like almost everything in Chanel's exclusifs - a reference to an earlier moment or moments in the company's history, or rather, rumour mill: a fragrance that's a little bit more than just a fragrance that's a little bit more than a fragrance that's a little bit more than a fragrance. Rumor mill: a fragrance from 1930 with that very name - Profumo's review delves into that history.

Sycomore - EdT - remains for me the most sophisticated vétiver of the 00's - though two aspects still make me wonder; Sycomore was often and willingly compared to Lalique's Encre Noire (2006). Although Lalique's perfume is not as delicate, and is rougher and smokier in its overall texture, there were moments where I perceived a clear kinship in the vétiver note, which brings the question of developments and distribution of specific distillations from those years back into play. In 2016, such speculation was put to rest with a swipe: Jacques Polge's son Oliver took on the role of Chanel's house perfumer and - are there family therapists among parfumos ? - maltreated a lot of the 'Lex Exclusifs' so badly that even the push of concentration to the Eau de Parfum couldn't help over these bloopers. The Vétiver texture of the first bottles of the 2016'er EdP resembled too much Guerlain's classic (!), Meanwhile, there was steered back strongly, the current EdP is again closer to the EdT - Polge Jr.'s rehabilitation and a return that unfortunately not all Les Exclusifs EdP's was granted: 31 Rue Cambon and 28 La Pausa are still AWAY from their original originality.

The eponymous Sykomore tree - see Josch's review - is probably also to be read as a reference to its functional as well as spiritual significance in ancient Egypt, among other things, similar to already Chanel's Bois des Îles or Coromandel , another, coherent episode to wooden exotica, extended Orientalism and most exclusive wood polish.
5 Replies
6
Bottle
7
Sillage
8
Longevity
8
Scent
Novalis
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Novalis
Novalis
Less helpful Review 7  
... unfortunately nothing new..
Sorry, but here the wheel was not reinvented.
The competition is too big and it has been decades ago. Of course, it's noticeable that I didn't rate this scent so bad, how could I if I (in my opinion) praise THE vetiver scent (Guerlain) go to heaven.
It's simple: It's not a reinterpretation of anything. Here they tried to impress him with some pepper. Here the similarity to Lubin or Guerlain cannot be denied. In my opinion, they are nuances.
For me, it's almost a peekaboo at a cheeky price.
17 Replies
7.5
Sillage
7.5
Longevity
6
Scent
Missk

1165 Reviews
Missk
Missk
Very helpful Review 6  
Earthy and masculine vetiver
I absolutely adore rich, woodsy, smokey scents, especially those with tobacco as its most dominant note. Chanel's Sycomore fits this description, however in my opinion, this fragrance is far more masculine than feminine. I'm usually accustomed to gender-bending scents and I often wear fragrances marketed towards men, however Sycomore is far too masculine for me to even touch and the funny thing is, Sycomore is a female fragrance.

Despite the initial surprise, Sycomore is rather enticing. The fragrance opens quite strong, with the vetiver and tobacco notes making a rather loud entrance. Once settled on the skin, the sandalwood and cypress blends in with the tobacco and vetiver creating an interesting dryness.

Every time I brought my wrist to my nose I detected a powdery woods note, rather like the scent of fresh saw-dust. I was very relieved to see aldehydes as a listed note here, which proved that I had not been misled into making up ingredients.

Smokey, and in some ways, bitter, Sycomore reminds me of a recently burnt Australian bushland after a rainstorm. It is the scent of a scorching hot Summer, however I can't say that I'd wear this anytime other than Winter.

There are many words to describe Sycomore; dry, smokey, salty, earthy, masculine, nutty, dark, classy and balanced are only just the beginning. On each individual, Sycomore seems to differ. On a man, I'm certain that this fragrance would shine. I'll just put it out there that Chanel's Sycomore is and should be unisex.
1 Reply
7.5
Bottle
5
Sillage
5
Longevity
9
Scent
Drseid

819 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
Helpful Review 5  
A better (And Much More Expensive) Encre Noire...
Extremely similar to Encre Noir but a bit softer and more polished. Sycomore most likely uses more natural ingredients. As Encre Noir is one of my favorites and Sycomore is slightly superior to it naturally I love it. That said, Encre Noir is easily the better value and is probably good enough for most folks. If money is no object and you want the best in your collection, then I recommend Sycomore. 4.5 stars out of 5.
1 Reply
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Statements

3 short views on the fragrance
Jbl775Jbl775 1 month ago
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
6
Scent
The smell of bureaucracy. It makes me depressed to smell this. Give me CDR and Coromandel and take me away from this.
0 Replies
MatuxMatux 2 years ago
An updated rendition of vetiver on the vein of Encre Noir, however with better quality than this last one.
0 Replies
BertolucciKBertolucciK 2 years ago
8
Bottle
6
Sillage
7
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Peppery vetiver, very earthy and woody. The scent is rooty and I get tobacco and sandalwood. More bright and less green than Encre Noire.
0 Replies

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