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Profumo
Top Review
26
A Must for Patchouli Lovers
Right off the bat: I consider this fragrance a small masterpiece. Not world-changing or incredibly innovative, but as we know, the wheel doesn't need to be reinvented all the time.
Admittedly, you have to like patchouli.
I love it - and how!
I adore the dark, earthy aura, the woody nuances, the bronzed tone that always reminds me of the sound of a cello: that warm, rich sound with melancholic undertones - that is patchouli for me, a multi-layered and multifaceted, full-voiced, velvety-dark voice in the olfactory orchestra.
François Demachy brings this voice to life in "Patchouli Impérial" in all its complexity. Both the earthy, somewhat musty cellar-like base mood, as well as the woody mid-notes, and the soft, tobacco-like, aromatic top notes.
Thus, the fragrance shifts, regarding the appearance of its fragrant main actor, between the infamous, creaky patchouli oils of the hippie era and an exceedingly refined, fluffy-light Chanel soufflé called "Coromandel".
Speaking of Chanel: the entire 'Collection-Privée' line from Dior is essentially an attempt to respond to Chanel's 'Les-Exclusifs'. And so it doesn't surprise me that some of these fragrances have certain references to each other. "Patchouli Impérial" is one of them. Its direct counterpart: the aforementioned "Coromandel". However, the Dior fragrance comes across as a somewhat rougher character compared to the delicate Chanel dessert. But it is precisely this seemingly coarser knitting style, the supposedly lacking refinement, and the more muscular stature that captivates me about "Patchouli Impérial".
"Coromandel" is wonderful: exquisitely woven and shimmering like silk, a "Patchouli de Luxe" with a delicate gourmand note. But sometimes, it just needs to be a bit more, and "Patchouli Impérial" offers more, much more. Not only more patchouli but also more supporting players. Dior itself only lists coriander, patchouli, and sandalwood, but already at the first sniff, it becomes clear: the perfumer has pulled quite a few registers of his fragrance organ here. The scent doesn't blast off full throttle; the polyphonic and multi-layered aspects unfold a pleasant presence but are never loud or intrusive: "Patchouli Impérial" enters the room together with the wearer. It is not already there before him.
This is pleasant, very pleasant indeed. Overall, I find it a joy to wear this fragrance. The multitude of aromas, the fruity opening, the herbal-aromatic heart, a dark cocoa note rising from the base, the woody foundation with distinct chypre hints, and the all-pervading warm cello sound of patchouli - a delight!
François Demachy has created an exceptionally relaxed fragrance here, one that transforms the typical minor mood of some brooding, heavy patchouli soliflores into a cheerful major mood, with little sidekicks towards Chanel's "Coromandel" (along with a stuck-out tongue and a "Ha, I can do this too, maybe even better!"), as well as "Bois des Îles", also Chanel, citing its wonderfully fine and light sandalwood note and aromatic coriander.
Longevity and projection are quite good, though not outstanding, but that doesn't matter; on the contrary: here too, "Patchouli Impérial" is a pleasant companion. The fragrance accompanies the wearer well throughout the day without constantly shouting "Here!" (like its equally appreciated but rather exhausting colleague "Leather Oud"...). Not that it practices understatement; it is certainly noticeable, but rather casually.
I simply like everything about this fragrance.
Just not its price - that is simply outrageous!
Adding 20 euros or more every few months is really more than steep.
But well, the industry has gone crazy anyway.
I recently learned from an acquaintance that she was supposed to make an appointment to test the Privée fragrances that were right in front of her nose - she was seriously sent away again.
More snobbery is not possible - it's infuriating!
If only the fragrances weren't so good! Not all, but certainly some.
And especially: "Patchouli Impérial"!