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Notes01/19/2020
Maxi3000
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Maxi3000
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The spirit of the age wants it that way
First of all, an important info first: I celebrated my 30th birthday last summer.
Is therefore relevant, as the following comment probably gives the impression that I am at least twice as old. Or triple. I just wanted to get rid of it again quickly.
And now straight to the outing: Yes, I'm one of those crybabies who feel pissed off by Dior, now that the French are completely gutting one of their modern milestones in men's perfumery and launching it on the market as a virtually completely new fragrance. The fact that the original version still exists, at least for the time being, as the "Dior Homme Original" and that the Intense and Perfume versions of the fragrance seem to remain untouched suggests that the decision may have been controversial even within the company. I think that the latter two versions (EdP and Parfum) will also be redesigned sooner or later - a line in which eau de toilette and eau de parfum do not match at all will be difficult to market in the long run. Seems to be a complete mess in some perfumeries in view of Dior's business policy already now.
The original "Dior Homme" is a perfume grand deed that I still love very much: noble, opulent, a little dandyish, and through the legendary powdery "lipstick accord" worn by Iris always a statement, maybe even a little provocation: against rigid definitions of what masculinity has to look (and smell), against mediocrity. Here no bashful game of hide-and-seek was played with shower gel, deodorant or shaving foam associations - here a man clearly professed to be "perfumed". To this day I find the concept incredibly cool and progressive.
If the new "Homme" had been released under a completely new name, I wouldn't have lost many words about the fragrance. But even so, the summary of my fragrance impression is quite brief: citric-peppery upbeat, a few sparingly masculine-woody notes in the heart, surrounded by some Iso E Super and Veitver, quite good durability, very quickly flattening Sillage.
Not badly done, not for running away, but much worse: trivial. Inconspicuous. Just not worth mentioning.
It has always annoyed me a little how such a boredom is then talked up as "ever-walker", "crowdpleaser" or "versatile" (worse expression). (Or especially bad: "office scent" - as if one always had to be slippery as an eel in the office and also underline the streamlined devotee olfactorically)
This should not be against this kind of fragrances, which have their right to exist. But: if I want to have such a perfume, I choose something in the drugstore or put a twenty for a Jil Sander or Joop on the table. For the price that a premium manufacturer like Dior calls up - 100ml of "Dior Homme" can be bought on the Dior website for 96 Euros - I find the bid simply outrageous. No more crowdpleaser or perpetrator. (Monsieur Demachy hits the mark involuntarily when he whitewashes this bland banality as "open, absolute simplicity")
But what am I talking about - to most people it seems to be either not important or even convenient anyway. Every perfume is also a child of its time. The fact that Dior creations such as "Fahrenheit" or the original "Dior Homme" became box office hits despite all their extravagance is also due to the spirit of the times. "Dior Homme 2020" fits very well into a time in which everyone wants/must "perform" their life, but yes, please within the given framework. Don't get out of line too much. If you walk through the shopping miles of the big cities, you will see super-individual people who look like each other like eggs. Branded clothes are important, but please do not wear unconventional or unusual clothes. Inconspicuous sweatshirts, basic T-shirts, pants in a jogging look, all silky-sitting and cut without a whistle, but as long as one of the brand logos from Calvin Klein to Gucci is on it.
So no more metro fumbling and all that newfangled existentialism! The 2020 remake of "Dior Homme" skilfully captures the current zeitgeist, which is once again with more conventional political and social connotations, and will therefore sell very well. Smells okay, doesn't attract attention, is from Dior - Safe, Bro.
Now you can find this stupid (like me), but it has to be noted like this.
As a music lover, I remember a documentary about Hi-NRG that I recently saw on TV - that synth-driven dance sound that rose from the ruins of the irrelevant disco music in the 80s and disappeared again at the end of the decade of the same name: suddenly all acid and house and the old epigones no longer understood the new language of clubs and discos.
Peter Watermann (from Stock Aitken Watermann), who contributed to the commercial sell-out of the Hi-NRG with his assembly line productions, was a bit perplexed in an interview about the new sound at that time: "They only have one beat - no more songs, no more good melodies! But they meet in tens of thousands in a meadow and have a lot of fun. They do it right - and I'm wrong."
And I'm probably wrong too. The spirit of the age wants it that way.
Is therefore relevant, as the following comment probably gives the impression that I am at least twice as old. Or triple. I just wanted to get rid of it again quickly.
And now straight to the outing: Yes, I'm one of those crybabies who feel pissed off by Dior, now that the French are completely gutting one of their modern milestones in men's perfumery and launching it on the market as a virtually completely new fragrance. The fact that the original version still exists, at least for the time being, as the "Dior Homme Original" and that the Intense and Perfume versions of the fragrance seem to remain untouched suggests that the decision may have been controversial even within the company. I think that the latter two versions (EdP and Parfum) will also be redesigned sooner or later - a line in which eau de toilette and eau de parfum do not match at all will be difficult to market in the long run. Seems to be a complete mess in some perfumeries in view of Dior's business policy already now.
The original "Dior Homme" is a perfume grand deed that I still love very much: noble, opulent, a little dandyish, and through the legendary powdery "lipstick accord" worn by Iris always a statement, maybe even a little provocation: against rigid definitions of what masculinity has to look (and smell), against mediocrity. Here no bashful game of hide-and-seek was played with shower gel, deodorant or shaving foam associations - here a man clearly professed to be "perfumed". To this day I find the concept incredibly cool and progressive.
If the new "Homme" had been released under a completely new name, I wouldn't have lost many words about the fragrance. But even so, the summary of my fragrance impression is quite brief: citric-peppery upbeat, a few sparingly masculine-woody notes in the heart, surrounded by some Iso E Super and Veitver, quite good durability, very quickly flattening Sillage.
Not badly done, not for running away, but much worse: trivial. Inconspicuous. Just not worth mentioning.
It has always annoyed me a little how such a boredom is then talked up as "ever-walker", "crowdpleaser" or "versatile" (worse expression). (Or especially bad: "office scent" - as if one always had to be slippery as an eel in the office and also underline the streamlined devotee olfactorically)
This should not be against this kind of fragrances, which have their right to exist. But: if I want to have such a perfume, I choose something in the drugstore or put a twenty for a Jil Sander or Joop on the table. For the price that a premium manufacturer like Dior calls up - 100ml of "Dior Homme" can be bought on the Dior website for 96 Euros - I find the bid simply outrageous. No more crowdpleaser or perpetrator. (Monsieur Demachy hits the mark involuntarily when he whitewashes this bland banality as "open, absolute simplicity")
But what am I talking about - to most people it seems to be either not important or even convenient anyway. Every perfume is also a child of its time. The fact that Dior creations such as "Fahrenheit" or the original "Dior Homme" became box office hits despite all their extravagance is also due to the spirit of the times. "Dior Homme 2020" fits very well into a time in which everyone wants/must "perform" their life, but yes, please within the given framework. Don't get out of line too much. If you walk through the shopping miles of the big cities, you will see super-individual people who look like each other like eggs. Branded clothes are important, but please do not wear unconventional or unusual clothes. Inconspicuous sweatshirts, basic T-shirts, pants in a jogging look, all silky-sitting and cut without a whistle, but as long as one of the brand logos from Calvin Klein to Gucci is on it.
So no more metro fumbling and all that newfangled existentialism! The 2020 remake of "Dior Homme" skilfully captures the current zeitgeist, which is once again with more conventional political and social connotations, and will therefore sell very well. Smells okay, doesn't attract attention, is from Dior - Safe, Bro.
Now you can find this stupid (like me), but it has to be noted like this.
As a music lover, I remember a documentary about Hi-NRG that I recently saw on TV - that synth-driven dance sound that rose from the ruins of the irrelevant disco music in the 80s and disappeared again at the end of the decade of the same name: suddenly all acid and house and the old epigones no longer understood the new language of clubs and discos.
Peter Watermann (from Stock Aitken Watermann), who contributed to the commercial sell-out of the Hi-NRG with his assembly line productions, was a bit perplexed in an interview about the new sound at that time: "They only have one beat - no more songs, no more good melodies! But they meet in tens of thousands in a meadow and have a lot of fun. They do it right - and I'm wrong."
And I'm probably wrong too. The spirit of the age wants it that way.
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