Top Notes 
Clary sage
Pine needle
Heart Notes 
Tonka bean
Green notes
Vetiver
Base Notes 
Musk
Ambergris
Oakmoss
02/05/2017
Rickbr
190 Reviews
Rickbr
Very helpful Review
Issara
When it comes to luxury perfumery in both the commercial and niche segment attention to detail is crucial so that the whole of the work passes a wealth consistent with the price range in which it stands. One of the important details in this process is to be able to reconcile the acquaintance with the new, the familiar with something of more universal appeal and, ultimately, be able to create a collection that has a coherence and is able to tell a story through its fragrances. This is for me a set of factors by which the perfumer and business woman Pissara Umavijani have stood out and been so well received in the scenery of the perfumery.
Dusita is one of the levels of the Thai Buddhist Paradise, a country of Pissara descent. It is seen as a haven of pure pleasure and contentment. And when I think of a paradise, it is certainly something with a personal and universal appeal. For Pissara, her paradise honors the memories of his father Montri Umavijani while it is clearly a collection of her olfactory memories of classic perfumes that enchant Pissara and that are part of several periods of the history of the perfumery. Each perfume is conceptualized around one of the poems of Montri Umavijani.
Issara is related to Montri's poem which says "Here where the tree once stood, is a shelter for ancient rains." The minimalist and short poem certainly evokes for me the nature and renewal of life and fits with the choice, an olfactory family that from the golden times of perfumery abstractly portrays harmonious aspects of nature, the Fougeres. I think Pissara was inspired by one of the most influential perfumes of all time, Houbigant's Fougere Royale. However, where Fougere Royale stood, like the tree of the past, it is a shelter for a new soul around one of its key elements - the tonka bean.
It is interesting that Issara is capable of such a feat because one of the main components of tonka bean is restricted in the current scenario - the coumarin. In addition, you can no longer use the same levels of oak moss of the past, another important element of a fougere accord. Nevertheless, by a balance between tobacco and coumarin, Issara is able to maintain in a realistic and prolonged way the various facets of the tonka: its smell of cut grass, its slightly bitter aroma, the earthy aspect that can be seen only in the beans itself and even the smell of almond and with a faint cherry tone. The Pine is well balanced, giving more volume to the almond herbal freshness of the composition without giving a connotation of cleaning. Tobacco is becoming more evident as the composition evolves, replacing the lavender in the center of the fougere accord and leading to a base that compensates for the moderate use of oakmoss with a good amount of tobacco smoke smell in combination with musks and a woody vetiver scent. Issara is a known melody played in a new way and with refinement and balance. A beautiful Fougere that honors the golden times of perfumery.
Dusita is one of the levels of the Thai Buddhist Paradise, a country of Pissara descent. It is seen as a haven of pure pleasure and contentment. And when I think of a paradise, it is certainly something with a personal and universal appeal. For Pissara, her paradise honors the memories of his father Montri Umavijani while it is clearly a collection of her olfactory memories of classic perfumes that enchant Pissara and that are part of several periods of the history of the perfumery. Each perfume is conceptualized around one of the poems of Montri Umavijani.
Issara is related to Montri's poem which says "Here where the tree once stood, is a shelter for ancient rains." The minimalist and short poem certainly evokes for me the nature and renewal of life and fits with the choice, an olfactory family that from the golden times of perfumery abstractly portrays harmonious aspects of nature, the Fougeres. I think Pissara was inspired by one of the most influential perfumes of all time, Houbigant's Fougere Royale. However, where Fougere Royale stood, like the tree of the past, it is a shelter for a new soul around one of its key elements - the tonka bean.
It is interesting that Issara is capable of such a feat because one of the main components of tonka bean is restricted in the current scenario - the coumarin. In addition, you can no longer use the same levels of oak moss of the past, another important element of a fougere accord. Nevertheless, by a balance between tobacco and coumarin, Issara is able to maintain in a realistic and prolonged way the various facets of the tonka: its smell of cut grass, its slightly bitter aroma, the earthy aspect that can be seen only in the beans itself and even the smell of almond and with a faint cherry tone. The Pine is well balanced, giving more volume to the almond herbal freshness of the composition without giving a connotation of cleaning. Tobacco is becoming more evident as the composition evolves, replacing the lavender in the center of the fougere accord and leading to a base that compensates for the moderate use of oakmoss with a good amount of tobacco smoke smell in combination with musks and a woody vetiver scent. Issara is a known melody played in a new way and with refinement and balance. A beautiful Fougere that honors the golden times of perfumery.
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