Yesterday afternoon I went to the perfumery because I felt the need to smell something unexplored. Does it happen to you too? It is an unstoppable impulse, a desire that I have to satisfy. There were several offers on the shelves in anticipation of Valentine's Day, and one of them caught my eye. A small all-black bottle depicting a sword whose handle looks like an upside-down heart. I grabbed it, approached it, and immediately understood that it was a La Petite Robe Noire (2009)
flanker, even though it did not show the little black dress. Even if the wording says "Black Perfecto Eau Florale", the instinct to try it was intense.
I thought of something dark, oriental, mysterious. This line of fragrances has always intrigued me because I often read that this gem inspired L'Homme Idéal Eau de Toilette
. I took a blotter and went heavy on it, with three or four sprays since I had to feel it through the mask. And even before I approached it to my nose, I felt it in the air. Mmm... It's just as I imagined it. The notes and chords that predominate were the black one of liquorice, bitter touch of almond, and a heavy floral hint of rose, indeed an assorted bouquet of roses. Not much time went by, and I immediately tested it on the back of my hand. The more it grew on me, the more I fell in love. Here the liquorice shines in all its glory, and I am fond of it, grasping all its facets. I went to the cashier to pay, but alas, I realized I didn't have my wallet with me, which carelessly remained in the coat I was wearing yesterday. I gave up, and a bit gloomy, I returned home. But the perfume did not leave me. I felt it for hours, and when I went to sleep, my hand still anchored it. And then I just had to describe it.
Black Perfecto is a nice mouthful. Men, do not neglect this hidden gem because it is anything but feminine, and above all, do it before it goes out of production. One drop of that potion can change a man's fate. The roses are there, but in a silky, jam-like way that is just holding all other things in their tiny jelly petals. Notes of almond, leather, and a bouquet of the best quality rose essences from all over the world make this perfume perversely sensual. But, when you wear it, you realize that it is not an ordinary rose scent. I managed to get the delectable accord of black cherry, almond, and rose and leather's remarkable agreement. The fragrance opens with rose water, a ted fresh and green like the watermelon, which gives softness and a floral background to the juiciness of the cherry. A pinch of black leather escapes from the bottom. I'm not sure if the cherry fruit is in there, but the resulting aroma is undeniably that of ruby and morello cherries. It's juicy and tart, real, with the sharp sweetness of cherries and the delicious dewy refreshment of rose water. Still, I get a short blast of liquorice on my skin before any cherry or rosy accord.
During the transition into the central stage, a burnt brown sugar dominates, followed by the scent of the Centifolia rose expertly balanced with a note of almond which, unlike most perfumes where it has the effect of an expensive soap, is so organic and crunchy that we can almost taste it. As we delve into the perfume's composition, the rose becomes stronger, darker and more mysterious. The rose also appears to be dark, black. And the texture of the toasted almonds is crunchy, giving the impression of a delicious tart overcooked. When the bitter almond essence opens, it offers a delightful rose macaroon effect. If I smell the sprayer, an aroma of rosy patchouli hits my nostrils.
Of course, the dry-down is all about the tea accord, a musky black tea. All the dark, smoky materials come out to play on the finish, and I feel something like a black leather jacket. For an overwhelming finish, Black Perfecto combines leather notes, not raw but tender, refined and supple, with a clean and woody patchouli and a creamy tonka bean. There is a touch of caramelized dark sugar, slightly burnt, that vaguely resembles Pink Sugar Eau de Toilette
. The addition of leather in the base brings an extra layer of complexity. It smooths things out a bit while adding an intense richness that amplifies the silky musk and smoky notes, allowing the fragrance to end with a dry vibe that's pretty tough. I still get some cherry, almond, and liquorice hours later, next to the skin, as well as tonka, patchouli, and sugar. And the blotting paper, the next day, still smells of dark musky and smoky black tea accords.
To conclude, there are notes of leather and liquorice, but once the top notes have settled, the base is a blend of vanilla, tonka and musk with a touch of cherry and rose. My advice is to wear it in the cold months. Autumn and winter evenings are the most appropriate. Yet, I can wear it even during the cooler days. I think it has contained projection and sillage on my skin while it lasts for hours. I appreciate how unlike anything else in my collection it is. OK, then, now I have to have it!
I base the review on a 30ml bottle I have owned since February 2022 (batch 7W01, 2017-09).