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8.0 / 10 27 Ratings
A popular perfume by Guerlain for women and men, released in 1998. The scent is spicy-oriental. It is still in production.
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Main accords

Spicy
Oriental
Resinous
Woody
Fruity

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
Bitter orangeBitter orange CinnamonCinnamon CorianderCoriander GingerGinger
Heart Notes Heart Notes
FirFir PinePine CloveClove PeonyPeony PlumPlum NorbflixtamorNorbflixtamor
Base Notes Base Notes
AmbergrisAmbergris PeonyPeony VioletViolet

Perfumer

Ratings
Scent
8.027 Ratings
Longevity
8.020 Ratings
Sillage
6.920 Ratings
Bottle
7.020 Ratings
Submitted by Puck1 · last update on 12/15/2023.
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Reviews

2 in-depth fragrance descriptions
Floyd

630 Reviews
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Floyd
Floyd
Top Review 25  
How I Entered the Inside of a Needle to Reach a Warm Snow Globe
It all began when I stared out of the bathroom window into the narrow red canyons of brick. Just moments ago, the familiar surf was rushing through the arteries of the evening city, everything seemed to be blue hour, as the sky turned to grated orange peel, the bitter shavings swirling like snow through the street, driven by gusts of ethereal cloves, in a cutting sharp ginger rain, wind-whirling spice from coriander, warm-wild cinnamon dust, and an approaching weather wall of eucalyptus.
Then everything was still, and I found myself inside a needle. From within, it was impossible for me to determine which wood it belonged to, still cloves were with me in the needle, bright resins pulsing through the green husk, clear camphor oozing sharply over the shell and forming a shimmering window. A light-shy corner in a forest full of shadows, where luminous beings hover like healing spirits.
Green was the sea in the warming tub, where I danced dreamily in the fading foam, my upper lip at the surface, palaces puffing in dreams: towers of ethereal soap bubbles in the pine foam bath of childhood.
Lost in thought, I linger in one of the bubbles, which in slow motion begins to resin its dome like an amber snow globe. The ice-blue eucalyptus flakes fall slowly around me, still bitter yet increasingly sweet the impression hour by hour. In the small round ghost forest, I believe I can smell ripening plums, now that the needles no longer burst and camphor resins shoot. And before that golden-brown amber bell in the fireplace, a fire flickers warmly, its smoke swirling more and more through the snow globe, a breathing warm creature.
**
Khanbaliq is truly extraordinary. Sharp and bitter in the top note, ethereally dark green-resinous in the heart, it develops into a warm-smoky amber base threaded with the long shadows of conifers. Flowers are nothing but letters in the pyramid. Pine sauna and pine foam bath could at best only watch as I entered the inside of a needle to reach a warm snow globe.

(With thanks to Mörderbiene)
21 Comments
Yatagan

416 Reviews
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Yatagan
Yatagan
Top Review 39  
Bitter Lesson
Uncommented Fragrances No. 60

Sigilli fragrances are as fascinating as they are disturbing. Enrico Buccella, who represents three brands that he sells through a shared website (Sigilli, Cerchi Nell’Acqua, Les Voiles Dépliées) and has also composed the highly regarded Laboratorio Olfattivo fragrance Alambar featured on this site, seems to be a man with a penchant for irritation.

Almost all of the fragrances have an almost experimental note that clearly sets them apart from other avant-garde (niche) brands. While Comme des Garcons often implements an artificial artificiality, CB I Hate Perfume plays with highly idiosyncratic natural scents (earth, clay, sawdust, cotton, hay, decaying leaves), LUSH connects extremes to something higher (Breath of God), and Aftelier invites you into the witch's kitchen of postmodern naturalness, the question arises as to what avant-garde twist lies behind Sigilli and the aforementioned sister brands.

For me, it is a bitterness bordering on the unharmonious, which is quite far from the beautiful sounds of many floral, amber, or oud fragrances, even further from gourmand, vanilla, and citrus notes. Since I personally find the warm, soft, and sweet components rather off-putting, this is, in my opinion, a welcome change, even if I do not like to wear all Sigilli fragrances. (I can certainly wear them, but wanting to wear them is something else.)

Khanbaliq is even an entry-level fragrance from Sigilli, as it irritates less harshly, but rather gently, and still carries enough delicate notes to appear almost uncomplicated to wear. It is all the more surprising that there has been no comment on it so far.

I find the orange note to be exceptionally fleeting. After a short time, I feel nothing of it on my skin: the fragrance becomes dull, losing its initial freshness. A minimal residual sweetness remains, reminiscent of a ripe fruit.

Cinnamon and ginger are not sweetly embedded here (as I often experience in almost repulsive forms), but remain herbaceous-spicy. The ginger is likely responsible for the gentle sharpness, while the cinnamon adds a sparkling spiciness.

The clove mentioned in the fragrance notes is not easily perceivable; usually, it is distinct and strong, but here it blends into the overall foundation and remains pale. However, I suspect that the fragrance would be quite different if the clove were not included.

The same applies to the fir and pine, which often give a fragrance a harsh, distinctive, and rather masculine character, but are usually easier to differentiate.

Floral fragrances hide behind the bitter-spicy overall impression. For me, they are not recognizable.

Khanbaliq ends in the drydown with a warm base note, the origin of which is unclear.

What remains is a woody, bitter, spicy note that makes this idiosyncratic fragrance a bitter yet harmonious lesson.

That this is not a pleasant sound I mentioned at the beginning and can be easily concluded from the description above. Nevertheless, the fragrance is exciting and wearable, but should in no case be ordered as a blind buy. Thorough testing on skin or fabric is essential (- all Sigilli fragrances behave differently on paper or fabric, appearing more harmonious, less disturbing, so one could say that these are fragrances better worn on fabric: here spicy bitter, but with greater freshness and a longer perceivable orange note).

Due to the rather moderate sillage of this fragrance, it remains in the background and is only subtly present in the room. A fragrance for the wearer, less for the surroundings. In this case, certainly not a mistake. Even more so with some other Sigilli fragrances.

Overall, the brand has appealed to me despite its cumbersome fragrances. I have managed to test most of the fragrances by now and recommend taking a look at them. Apparently, they are hardly represented in our community so far.
23 Comments

Statements

7 short views on the fragrance
21
18
It's great! The spices are a bit more prominent, the floral accord feels finely powdery, amber adds sweetness, and at the same time there...
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18 Comments
15
15
Spicy citrus start with ginger sharpness + cinnamon. Gradually becoming green-woody + resinous. I can’t recognize a floral scent, just pine.
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15 Comments
5 years ago
12
6
Dust-dry bitter oranges. Resinous plum forest wine. Night flowers.
Serious and innovative.
Those who can hear, hear beautifully, not disturbingly.
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6 Comments
8
6
Bitter, dark clouds drift by
Warm and spicy, painted in orange-red light
Softly underscored by gentle sounds~evening mood
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6 Comments
3
Coriander and needles go well together here, and with plum wine and Christmas spices, it's an unusual but wearable scent.
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0 Comments
9 years ago
2
doesn't necessarily make me feel like I "want" it, but it's very wearable, surrounded by a woody-warm-spicy scent aura; very pleasant
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0 Comments
1
Orange, bitter needles, and amber in the finish - these components define this peculiar scent. Spices + flowers are only in the background.
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0 Comments
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