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11/26/2011
Apicius
222 Reviews
Apicius
Very helpful Review
3
The Other End of the Spectrum
After Guerlain had reformulated its brilliant Vetiver for the start of the new millenium, it seemed pretty clear what LVMH, the new owner was up to. Vetiver became stylish, modern, the colour was changed from dark to pale bright green, and a good part of its unique character was lost. Since then, Vetiver aficionados have been looking for alternatives elsewhere. Lately, another change seems to have taken place at Guerlain. They are slowly coming back to the old style. At least they gave us back the old perfume bottle, but unfortunately not the old fragrance (yet).
The variation Vetiver Frozen Fragrance aka Eau Glacée dates back to the times of millennium optimism. It is a lighter variant of the 2000's Vetiver. Just as the following Vetiver Sport, Frozen Fragrance was only available for a short time. Maybe, it had been planned as a limited edition anyway or maybe due to missing success.
Just to make clear: The 2000' Vetiver is still a very good perfume, and all of its variations are worth trying. Especially Vetiver Extreme is an acceptable replacement for what we have lost with the millennium reformulation. It has enough character of its own to stand comparison with the original Vetiver.
While Vetiver Extreme is gloomy, darksome and very pithy, Eau Glacée is just on the opposite side of the spectrum. Any bulkyness still left in the 2000' Vetiver was reduces here. Almost no smoky, tobacco-like notes. Instead, there is a weak citrusy opening, put together with a fresh, minty-herbal accord. Eau Glacée is not that cold as one might suppose. And you would certainly not do any justice to this fragrance if you regarded it as a simple summer scent.
Let me put it like this: If Vetiver Extreme is a woodchopper, then Eau Glacée is an elegant gentlemen with a panama hat and linen suit. Reducing so much of the rougher aspects makes Eau Glacée just the opposite of the popular darker Vetiver style that fragrances like Encré Noir or Frederic Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire stand for. If you think outside the Guerlain box, there is just one Vetiver that marks this particular style like no other: the Vetiver by perfumer Frédéric Haldiman which was available via home shopping for some time. If you have it, keep it!
After the opening freshness and airiness is gone, Eau Glacée shows its claws. It is strong enough to persevere a whole day. It stays near to the skin. I found it particularly comfortable to get a whiff of Vetiver elegance and complexity once in a while, i.e. after a quick movement. Remember: the original 1961 vetiver was an eau de cologne, to be used for a quick refreshment. Eau Glacée has much more durability, but its decency comes near that old eau de cologne spirit.
I really appreciate the lighter variations of the well known Guerlain fragrances. Both with Guerlain Homme as well as Habit Rouge the lighter variations appeal to me more than the originals or the more intense variants. Vetiver is an exception since I like Vetiver Extreme, it is grand. If I relate these fragrances with each other, than the 2000' Vetiver stands just in the middle between the Extreme and Eau Glacée. I see it is neither fish nor fowl, and I would not miss it.
However, at Guerlain, they think differently: no new light variation in sight!
The variation Vetiver Frozen Fragrance aka Eau Glacée dates back to the times of millennium optimism. It is a lighter variant of the 2000's Vetiver. Just as the following Vetiver Sport, Frozen Fragrance was only available for a short time. Maybe, it had been planned as a limited edition anyway or maybe due to missing success.
Just to make clear: The 2000' Vetiver is still a very good perfume, and all of its variations are worth trying. Especially Vetiver Extreme is an acceptable replacement for what we have lost with the millennium reformulation. It has enough character of its own to stand comparison with the original Vetiver.
While Vetiver Extreme is gloomy, darksome and very pithy, Eau Glacée is just on the opposite side of the spectrum. Any bulkyness still left in the 2000' Vetiver was reduces here. Almost no smoky, tobacco-like notes. Instead, there is a weak citrusy opening, put together with a fresh, minty-herbal accord. Eau Glacée is not that cold as one might suppose. And you would certainly not do any justice to this fragrance if you regarded it as a simple summer scent.
Let me put it like this: If Vetiver Extreme is a woodchopper, then Eau Glacée is an elegant gentlemen with a panama hat and linen suit. Reducing so much of the rougher aspects makes Eau Glacée just the opposite of the popular darker Vetiver style that fragrances like Encré Noir or Frederic Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire stand for. If you think outside the Guerlain box, there is just one Vetiver that marks this particular style like no other: the Vetiver by perfumer Frédéric Haldiman which was available via home shopping for some time. If you have it, keep it!
After the opening freshness and airiness is gone, Eau Glacée shows its claws. It is strong enough to persevere a whole day. It stays near to the skin. I found it particularly comfortable to get a whiff of Vetiver elegance and complexity once in a while, i.e. after a quick movement. Remember: the original 1961 vetiver was an eau de cologne, to be used for a quick refreshment. Eau Glacée has much more durability, but its decency comes near that old eau de cologne spirit.
I really appreciate the lighter variations of the well known Guerlain fragrances. Both with Guerlain Homme as well as Habit Rouge the lighter variations appeal to me more than the originals or the more intense variants. Vetiver is an exception since I like Vetiver Extreme, it is grand. If I relate these fragrances with each other, than the 2000' Vetiver stands just in the middle between the Extreme and Eau Glacée. I see it is neither fish nor fowl, and I would not miss it.
However, at Guerlain, they think differently: no new light variation in sight!
