It is a bit sad when, with hardly any expectations, you let someone else carefully spray the fragrance on you and already mentally recap the way to the next water faucet.
But sometimes things turn out differently than expected.
Sprayed on and immediately pleased - by a long-missed fresh accord that I recognized from the very first phase of New West for him from back in the day and also from a sample of Claiborne for men that I had been obsessed with, which I unfortunately could not find again in a subsequently purchased original bottle. Fresh, slightly citrusy, bright and buttery, reminiscent of a lightly brewed black tea.
This note remains present to my delight, and soft, creamy woody notes join in.
Somehow, the fragrance reminds me of an early Jil Sander scent that I never owned, with a purple or reddish bottle. I suspect it might be Man/Feeling Man; I still have an old Man sample here that conveys a similar impression.
Overall, the fragrance radiates a casual, relaxed vibe, somewhat creamy, tea-like, bright-woody, slightly sweet, lightly spicy, like an informal gathering over tea and cake, preferably in a sunny room, or for lounging, without the need to fear a gourmand or it drifting into forced wellness territory.
For me, it is very harmonious; even the violet elements that I often do not like are pleasantly integrated. It feels like a softened blend of the suspected Jil Sander, elements from Vendetta, and the aforementioned fresh opening. Without overwhelming sweetness, without brutal sillage, with good skin-close longevity.
If this is supposed to represent the 80s according to its name, then rather the very last years, and if so, then more the subtle, softer men's fragrances that did not work with a sledgehammer and were considered less masculine at that time.
For a mainstream fragrance that will also be available in one or another drugstore, it is a fine, elegant thing. I prefer it, for example, to a YSL Homme. Whether it can reach the masses without "flashiness" is questionable.
Beautiful memories are awakened, everything is well-crafted, even if perhaps not very complex and multi-layered, and served subtly in the bulky, straightforward bottle.
Addendum:
Thé Noir 29 Eau de Parfum represents for me the refinement/nobler version of this idea, which seems even more harmonious and rounded. The direction feels similar to me.