Phoenician Leather / Phoenicia by Heeley

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Phoenician Leather
Phoenicia
Heeley 2014

7.9 / 10 85 Ratings

A popular perfume by Heeley for women and men, released in 2014. The scent is woody-smoky. It is still in production.
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Main accords

Woody

Smoky

Resinous

Leathery

Oriental

Fragrance Notes

Frankincense Date

Date

Oud

Birch wood

Cedarwood

Java vetiver

Labdanum

Raisin

Sandalwood

Ratings

Scent

7.985 Ratings

Longevity

7.666 Ratings

Sillage

6.568 Ratings

Bottle

7.674 Ratings

Value for money

7.014 Ratings

Submitted by Michael, last update on 08/12/2025.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to

Parfum de la Nuit

Attar AT

Vetiver Royale

Camel

Exotic 3

Dirty Money

Reviews

7 in-depth fragrance descriptions

04/25/2015

8Scent 10Longevity 5Sillage

Drseid
828 Reviews

Drseid

3

Refined Incense Oud...

Phoenicia opens with dry, stark woody incense, with hints of relatively sharp, slightly smoky vetiver support. As the composition moves to its early heart the stark woody incense increases in intensity, now joined by co-starring smooth, slightly rubbery synthetic Oud, as the composition adds a relatively subtle, slightly sweet jasmine-like fruity accord to the mix as well as underlying natural smelling cedarwood. During the late dry-down the incense gradually recedes leaving the refined synthetic Oud as the initial star before it too vacates, leaving traces of cedarwood to join slightly sweet creamy sandalwood through the finish. Projection is average but longevity is outstanding at over 15 hours on skin.

Phoenicia was a 2014 release that slipped under many people's radar including my own (probably helped by very limited initial distribution). Now that Heeley has broadened the distribution to more accessible outlets it is time to see if this initially elusive composition makes the grade... The first thing one notices when Phoenicia is applied on skin is its high level of refinement. Near immediately the wearer notices the gorgeous focal combination of relatively dry smoky incense with what most likely is synthetic Oud. This is not your normal synthetic Oud, however, as the presentation of this Oud is super-smooth, with only a faint hint of the usual rubbery aspect encountered, melding with the stark incense and subtle jasmine-like fruity supporting accord perfectly. The combination of the three really is impressive and quite pleasant smelling. Joining the focal accord is some very subtle support from underlying natural smelling cedar and slightly sharp vetiver that give just a modest counter to the super-smooth primary nature of the composition. The late dry-down is probably the least interesting aspect of development once the incense and Oud mostly vacate, leaving slightly sweet, creamy sandalwood to meld with the supporting cedar remnants, creating an almost woody vanilla-like effect that is a slight letdown. While surely less interesting, the late dry-down is not in any way a show stopper, with the overall experience quite sublime and extremely polished on the whole. What you *won't* find with Phoenicia is something avant garde or contemporary, as the composition really has a more classical structure, with some twists like its difficult to place well-integrated fruity accord to separate it from the pack. This is a composition that takes chances, but keep the risks minor, smelling pleasant at all times. The bottom line is the $250 per 50ml Extrait strength bottle Phoenicia will most likely not satisfy folks looking for quirky compositions, but those looking for one with sophisticated refinement, high quality materials and enough chances taken to positively distinguish it from competitors are bound to be quite satisfied, earning it an "excellent" 4 stars out of 5 rating and a strong recommendation.

07/31/2025

ClaireV
969 Reviews

ClaireV

Helpful Review 2

Pared back, smoky oud rendered with that Heeley subtlety

This is a very subtle, dark, and masculine take on the oud theme that chooses to make the oud note part of the general bone structure of the fragrance rather than the star. Despite the dried fruit, oud, and incense notes, this is more a dry, smoky woods fragrance than an imaginary trip down the Levantine coast - more Timbuktu than Jubilation XXV or Al Oudh, say.

The Heeley signature of refinement and grace is evident here. This will greatly appeal to anyone who prefers the delicacy of small, well-made objects to blingy costume jewelry. It's not a statement oud - it is a private pleasure to be absorbed and enjoyed in the small space between your breastbone and your shirt. From the dark, feline oud oil note at the start to the polished woods, leather, and crisp smoke background, nothing about Phoenicia is gaudy or loud.

Phoenicia reminds me of an old wooden casket that once held dried fruit and bunches of vetiver root wrapped up in paper, the aged smell of which has infiltrated the brown patina on the casket and exists more as a memory of scent in the grain of the wood than a direct note. A work of incredible subtlety, I would wear this everywhere without having to think twice about whether it's appropriate or not. This kind of thing will always be right, like Cary Grant.

05/10/2015

8Scent 7.5Longevity 5Sillage

Meggi
1018 Reviews

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Meggi

Top Review 22

Part-time Oriental Quarter

Oh, an uncommented Heeley! And I just received a sample. So let's dive right in: The Phoenicians were the (possibly) first to circumnavigate the African continent. James Heeley is the (apparently) first to name a fragrance after Phoenicia. And I get to write the (obviously) first comment. One is really right at the forefront, the very first, so to speak.

During the paper strip test in the store, Vetiver immediately came to mind. Nutty in character and a decent portion of it. That was unexpected. An impression that hardly changes during the skin test. Very elegant, the combination of Vetiver with incense and lifelike date. I know at least two perfume lovers who should test Phoenicia.

As it develops, I find the scent - regardless of the pyramid - not too oriental. The mention of incense, cistus, and labdanum is somewhat misleading. Incense is fine, but it is far from any opulence; I find it harsh and strict, though so subtly applied that it only gently smokes out the Vetiver impression and darkens it a bit. Additionally, I perceive a faint metallic aftertaste. This is the scent impression for hours two and three, and I find it original and strong. Unfortunately, I have never tested Timbuktu in detail; perhaps it is similar.

Subsequently, the fragrance shifts into a variation of wood. Oud, if you will, but a dark-woody variant. The cedar integrates well, a subtle leather is also acceptable, like that of a suede shoe. Before use, of course. Nevertheless, Phoenicia is (and remains) at its core a wood scent. Thuja could still be involved in the last third, giving it a nice twist into the bitter-abyssal, which vaguely reminds me of Encre Noire with its thuja-cashmeran combo, but here it comes across more naturally.

Unfortunately, with the wood decision, it loses a bit of its air. This does not refer to the volume, which has always been muted, but rather to the departure from the special. The beginning was excellent and promising, even if there are already fragrances with incense and vetiver. It's a shame that the present colleague cannot maintain that level. The dry down after about eight hours offers a rather conventional cedar, possibly with a touch of amber added, though I'm not sure. The longevity is good, the restraint is certainly intentional and therefore probably does not justify any penalty.

Phoenicia may be the scent of a European who lived in the Orient for a long time and, to his boundless astonishment, over the years has allowed some local influences to seep into his fragrance habits. The problem would then be the boundless astonishment. A bit more courage would have been beneficial.

01/12/2016

9Scent 10Longevity 10Sillage

Brise
18 Reviews

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Brise

Top Review

Yes, yes, yesss, Phoenicia!

Whenever you think it can't get any better,
a really good little fragrance comes from somewhere:
Dry wood meets vetiver.

All my favorites on board and anchors away.

Frankincense? Alright, I'll take that too. It always pairs well with oud resin.
The labdanum and the (barely noticeable to me) date bring a hint of a certain balsamic fruitiness into play.

Then comes the wood.
Dry, uncompromising, sandalwood with ethereal birch and a touch of oud, leather-like and resinous.
Oh, how beautiful it is.
This herbal vetiver base - perfect.

And again, slightly bitter oud resin and herbaceous vetiver - until the wood gradually takes the lead, and the vetiver grass slowly retreats.
Now comes the moment of the green birch. Very well-groomed. Reserved and elegant.
The rough wood is finally polished and shines with a shimmering glow.
The good old birch. Great idea to revive it here because it all fits wonderfully.

I actually found this Heeley likable from the start. But it was only after several applications on the skin that I truly understood it.
If I weren't among the "fragrance enthusiasts" here, I would say, okay, that's enough (with my collection). I've got it. I don't need more.
But there’s always something new to discover here :-)
However, I must also say, this is something that comes close to my idea of a fragrance tailored to my very personal taste with a special touch.
I will have to reassess my previous ratings. Ratings that, however, make no claim to universality and perfume knowledge. I want to emphasize that here. It's all about preferences.

With frankincense, it's a bit of a thing for me. It's not necessarily my favorite. I have a bit of resin for smoking and distilled oil, as well as incense of it at home. None of it really convinces me. It must be due to the origin, storage, and/or composition - or simply my taste. Perhaps similar to agarwood, which can also exhibit various scent nuances - from sweet balsamic to bitter to woody-animalic. In Heeley’s Phoenicia, it fits scent-wise like a lid on a pot. Or rather, the frankincense perfectly introduces the following initially slightly bitter fragrance compositions.

One more thing:
The fragrance may lack any sweetness for some, although in the end, you can also detect something subtly sweet. A true "Oriental," I would be cautious about that. For people with a penchant for gourmand scents, this is not for them. It is essentially herbaceous - and remains largely so. The only relatively oriental aspect is the opening. And that passes quickly. In the end, in the base, it presents a fantastically balsamic elegance and throughout the whole range, with a lot of noticeable quality.
I love the long-lasting, softly fading, fresh - almost mint-like dry down effect. It has a very pleasant, comforting character that is still noticeable the next day and never feels intrusive.

Addendum (27.01.):
A nice lady who noticed the scent on me said: "That's how I imagine the scent of a marijuana plantation."
So be careful!
:-))

01/13/2022

8.5Scent 8Longevity 8Sillage

Taurus
1165 Reviews

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Taurus

Very helpful Review 15

Modern Antiquity

In contrast to the recently tested brand Perris Monte Carlo, which seems ambitious but ultimately fails to fully convince, I have had consistently positive experiences with Heeley. I am completely taken with Phoenicia.

This is partly due to the fine complexity and contrast of the Extrait de Parfum, with truly excellently composed ingredients. Clearly leading the way is the clear, airy incense. This variant is my favorite. Accompanying it are seemingly darker fruity notes of dates and raisins, along with a drop or two of Oud, which remains respectfully in the background. In between are woody nuances that fluctuate between light cedar and almost charred grill coal, as well as a few small splashes of vetiver.

All in all, it is extremely interesting, ranging from subtly sweet to somewhat bitter, light to dark, light to heavy, cool to warming, classically to modernly composed, and very differently perceivable on skin, paper, and in the air.

Strangely, I associate it less with the ancient trading Phoenicians and more with rustic Vikings in leather armor raiding churches. Although then the dates and raisins would definitely be out of place.

Regardless - Phoenicia is an excellent resinous-woody-smoky scent that unfortunately did not receive the attention it deserves. Now it seems to be too late, as Heeley has tragically removed it from their lineup. Perhaps it was just too unfashionable or simply ahead of its time.

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