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Phoenician Leather
Phoenicia
2014

8.0 / 10 86 Ratings
A popular perfume by Heeley for women and men, released in 2014. The scent is woody-smoky. It is still in production.
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Main accords

Woody
Smoky
Resinous
Leathery
Oriental

Fragrance Notes

FrankincenseFrankincense OudOud Birch woodBirch wood CedarwoodCedarwood DateDate Java vetiverJava vetiver LabdanumLabdanum RaisinRaisin SandalwoodSandalwood
Ratings
Scent
8.086 Ratings
Longevity
7.667 Ratings
Sillage
6.569 Ratings
Bottle
7.674 Ratings
Value for money
7.215 Ratings
Submitted by Michael, last update on 08/12/2025.

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Reviews

3 in-depth fragrance descriptions
ClaireV

958 Reviews
ClaireV
ClaireV
Helpful Review 2  
Pared back, smoky oud rendered with that Heeley subtlety
This is a very subtle, dark, and masculine take on the oud theme that chooses to make the oud note part of the general bone structure of the fragrance rather than the star. Despite the dried fruit, oud, and incense notes, this is more a dry, smoky woods fragrance than an imaginary trip down the Levantine coast - more Timbuktu than Jubilation XXV or Al Oudh, say.

The Heeley signature of refinement and grace is evident here. This will greatly appeal to anyone who prefers the delicacy of small, well-made objects to blingy costume jewelry. It's not a statement oud - it is a private pleasure to be absorbed and enjoyed in the small space between your breastbone and your shirt. From the dark, feline oud oil note at the start to the polished woods, leather, and crisp smoke background, nothing about Phoenicia is gaudy or loud.

Phoenicia reminds me of an old wooden casket that once held dried fruit and bunches of vetiver root wrapped up in paper, the aged smell of which has infiltrated the brown patina on the casket and exists more as a memory of scent in the grain of the wood than a direct note. A work of incredible subtlety, I would wear this everywhere without having to think twice about whether it's appropriate or not. This kind of thing will always be right, like Cary Grant.
0 Comments
7.5
Bottle
5
Sillage
10
Longevity
8
Scent
Drseid

821 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
3  
Refined Incense Oud...
Phoenicia opens with dry, stark woody incense, with hints of relatively sharp, slightly smoky vetiver support. As the composition moves to its early heart the stark woody incense increases in intensity, now joined by co-starring smooth, slightly rubbery synthetic Oud, as the composition adds a relatively subtle, slightly sweet jasmine-like fruity accord to the mix as well as underlying natural smelling cedarwood. During the late dry-down the incense gradually recedes leaving the refined synthetic Oud as the initial star before it too vacates, leaving traces of cedarwood to join slightly sweet creamy sandalwood through the finish. Projection is average but longevity is outstanding at over 15 hours on skin.

Phoenicia was a 2014 release that slipped under many people's radar including my own (probably helped by very limited initial distribution). Now that Heeley has broadened the distribution to more accessible outlets it is time to see if this initially elusive composition makes the grade... The first thing one notices when Phoenicia is applied on skin is its high level of refinement. Near immediately the wearer notices the gorgeous focal combination of relatively dry smoky incense with what most likely is synthetic Oud. This is not your normal synthetic Oud, however, as the presentation of this Oud is super-smooth, with only a faint hint of the usual rubbery aspect encountered, melding with the stark incense and subtle jasmine-like fruity supporting accord perfectly. The combination of the three really is impressive and quite pleasant smelling. Joining the focal accord is some very subtle support from underlying natural smelling cedar and slightly sharp vetiver that give just a modest counter to the super-smooth primary nature of the composition. The late dry-down is probably the least interesting aspect of development once the incense and Oud mostly vacate, leaving slightly sweet, creamy sandalwood to meld with the supporting cedar remnants, creating an almost woody vanilla-like effect that is a slight letdown. While surely less interesting, the late dry-down is not in any way a show stopper, with the overall experience quite sublime and extremely polished on the whole. What you *won't* find with Phoenicia is something avant garde or contemporary, as the composition really has a more classical structure, with some twists like its difficult to place well-integrated fruity accord to separate it from the pack. This is a composition that takes chances, but keep the risks minor, smelling pleasant at all times. The bottom line is the $250 per 50ml Extrait strength bottle Phoenicia will most likely not satisfy folks looking for quirky compositions, but those looking for one with sophisticated refinement, high quality materials and enough chances taken to positively distinguish it from competitors are bound to be quite satisfied, earning it an "excellent" 4 stars out of 5 rating and a strong recommendation.
0 Comments
5
Pricing
7
Bottle
6
Sillage
6
Longevity
6.5
Scent
Lauser93

886 Reviews
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Lauser93
Lauser93
2  
Not really my cup of tea
Unfortunately, I couldn't really make friends with "Phoenicia | Heeley". It's just too discordant for me and doesn't sound so pleasant towards the end. The performance is not exactly intoxicating either. The longevity on my skin is only 5 to 6 hours with a weak sillage.

I still like the top note best here. It starts off dark-fruity, oriental-spicy, sweet and gourmand with aromas of labdanum, dates, prunes, raisins and a little honey. The heart note goes in an animalic, resinous-woody, smoky and somewhat pungent direction. Here I can smell oud, birchwood, incense, sandalwood, myrrh, opoponax and cedarwood. There is also a good amount of leatheriness. The base smells like parched earth on which cold rain pours down after what feels like an eternity. Vetiver and a certain root aroma can also be detected. From time to time, I am also reminded of the scent of an old building, such as the rooms of a medieval castle.

It's a pity that "Phoenicia | Heeley" developed like this after a rather promising start. I would like to thank Nick for the bottling.
2 Comments

Statements

1 short view on the fragrance
HermeshHermesh 10 years ago
7
Bottle
6
Sillage
7
Longevity
8
Scent
Leathery oud, smoky vetiver and wood, with a little bitterness- all elegant and restrained. Slightly moldy fruit note is quite interesting.
0 Comments

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