Elemi, a sacred resin from the Canarium tree's bark, was perhaps one of the first resins used by the ancient Egyptians to embalm the dead, along with frankincense, myrrh, galbanum, and cedar of Lebanon. Ancient populations have used it throughout the Middle East as an antiseptic to heal scars and wounds. Introduced in Europe around the 16th century, people used it in poultices and healing ointments for wounds and skin infections. Elemi has a long history of traditional use in its native Philippines, known as "Pili". Besides, Elemi in Arabic means the concept of "as above, so below". Using Elemi in embalming, found in sarcophagi buried in ancient tombs, has been celebrated over the centuries. The ancient Egyptians defended the Elemi in the intricate embalming process (along with styrax, turpentine, benzoin, and other materials) to help bodies maintain their dryness and freshness over the centuries. Is the story that the name derives from an ancient African tribal god whose name translates as "guardian of the spirit" relevant? It is a story steeped in mystery.
Twice Nero comes after 20-something years of its ancestor
Twice pour Homme Eau de Toilette. As I own both and reviewed the latter recently, I do not find any similarities between the two. I will not call this one a flanker, as Twice Nero is a contemporary masterpiece with its character. As I write down my first impressions, I'm thinking about going out for a run. It is a beautiful July Sunday morning, much warmer than the seasonal average of this period, and in the woods near where I live, you can already hear the song of cicadas. I want to try sprinkling a few drops of this fluid and test its performance outdoors, on my skin warmed by the sun and hot from running.
Twice Nero has woody and oriental facets; it's dark and intense. To begin with, here, too, as in its predecessor, we find a citrusy and aromatic opening. The softer and sweeter notes of the mandarine have taken the place of the more tart ones of the lemon. I can say the same for mint leaves, which are more aromatic and balsamic in the classic green version instead of the white horse mint. And if in
Twice pour Homme Eau de Toilette the dirty patchouli was the background to that harsh opening, here it is the more resinous notes of the Elemi that create a dark, rubbery, deep-set. Thus, the entrance is fruity and herbal with a whisper of a powder and a somewhat dewy edge, more leaning towards orangey mint rather than lemony mint.
As soon as the acute notes of citrus fruits lower a few tones, still leaving the aromatic ones of mint in the background well present, I perceive the dense messages of the lemony Elemi that meet the drier ones of cedar shavings. Neither prevails over the other. Instead, you feel the union of freshly sharpened pencil shavings immersed and mixed in the sticky liquid of the Elemi. The flowers and spices of the progenitor Twice are absent, and the heart is a riot of warm, slightly smoky resins and dry woods. I pause in the description, just long enough to run, and then resume when the perfume has taken the right direction towards its ending.
After an hour, I feel a sweet and burnt note emerge on my skin, which I associate with tonka beans or the sweet coumarin. The nose Ilias Ermenidis covered this sweetness with vegetal musk, and oak moss's moist and musky notes dominate the final chord.
Ultimately, I like the overall scent, but it has poor longevity, which is quite common in recent releases. That is not a showstopper; perhaps the cruel temperature did not help. According to my flavours, I would dress Twice Nero during the day of the middle seasons. Hot summer seems not appropriate, while cold winter might be an option. The moderate sillage and projection make it safe for the office, and I find it elegant with a sporty twist.
I base the review on a 125ml bottle I have owned since June 2022.
-Elysium
Top Notes 
Mint
Mandarin orange
Heart Notes 
Elemi resin
Cedarwood
Base Notes 
Oakmoss
Tonka bean
FizzyDrink
todk
Partycow
Elysium
Jazzy76
Mikyg1
SirLancelot
Whadelse89
HPKrug
Dionysos2022
