Bottle Design:
Formafantasma

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Olfactory Series 1

Coffea Jil Sander 2025

7.0 / 10 15 Ratings

A new perfume by Jil Sander for women and men, released in 2025. The scent is powdery-gourmand. It is being marketed by Coty.
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Main accords

Powdery

Gourmand

Woody

Spicy

Sweet

Fragrance Notes

Orris root

Coffee CO2

El Salvadorian peru balsam

Aldehydes

Perfumer

Paul Guerlain

Ratings

Scent

7.015 Ratings

Longevity

7.914 Ratings

Sillage

7.314 Ratings

Bottle

6.626 Ratings

Submitted by Itscoral · last update on 05/13/2025.

Source-backed & verified

Interesting Facts

The fragrance is part of the Olfactory Series 1 collection.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to

Reviews

2 in-depth fragrance descriptions

02/18/2025

Alexlinhcao
121 Reviews

Alexlinhcao

Helpful Review 2

COFFEA

It’s funny how initially COFFEA came across to me so latte-like and sweet on the paper blotter, but it’s nothing like that in actuality. Yet another reminder to always try things on the skin! On me, the coffee isn’t the star—it’s the orris root. Soft, powdery, and cozy, it has both volume and warmth. Tinged with coffee, the overall color is a warm cream.

The creative marketing touts this as “floral ambery” with both “greener and roasted notes”. I don’t get any of that. It doesn’t read as a green, “botanical” scent to me.

In my mind, if this is a coffee-scent, it’s about the girl who goes to the coffee shop instead, and not the coffee beans themselves. It’s about plush, knitted mohair sweaters, Moleskine notebooks, and Blackwing pencils.

It reminded me of Diptyque’s Bois Corse at first, but side by side, they’re different. BC is is deeper and a little chewier, whereas Coffea is airier. It might be the elder sister to Replica’s Coffee Break.

02/09/2025

8Scent 7Longevity 7Sillage

ParfumAholic
256 Reviews

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ParfumAholic

Top Review 26

Crime Scene: Königsallee 62, 40212 Düsseldorf (Coffee Chat at Jil Sander)

The Jil Sander boutiques have always been a special place of tidiness and calm for me. Nothing to distract the eye, no unnecessary frills, the noble fabrics hang in neat rows along the bright walls, warm light invites you to linger. No hustle, no rummaging through piles of clothes. The spirit of the legendary guardian of aesthetics, the uncompromising nature in terms of design, presentation, and quality is still clearly palpable even years after Jil Sander, the Queen of Less, has left.

So I was all the more excited to get to know the new fragrance line from the house in the store on the Kö in Düsseldorf, which is supposed to represent the style of the house.

The entire line is presented soberly, coolly, and unpretentiously in the center of the store. White bottles on a white background - this type of presentation is of course not surprising and I really like it.

What I like less are the white lacquered metal covers that leave room for interpretation, but are supposed to protect the (allegedly) mouth-blown bottles from light exposure. A plausible explanation, but I don't really like the implementation. More on that later.

My "objects of desire" were "Black Tea," "Coffea," "Earth," and "Smoke" (where I had already gotten to know Black Tea through a sharing).

Coffea indeed starts with a kind of coffee note and reminds me of freshly brewed coffee and the atmosphere in a coffee roastery. Powdery iris (which somewhat reminds me of Dior's lipstick vibes) and absolutely flattering Peru balsam round off the coffee feeling super harmoniously. For me (of course) the star of the series, as the scent is very soft, and the powder is not too powdery or even overwhelming.

Conclusion: A beautiful, soft, and enveloping scent that makes me think a bit of cashmere & co. But even here, the "must-have desire" does not set in. However, it could certainly be a candidate for a decant.

Now to the bottles: The glass bottles are quite nice to look at, round and with air bubbles in the glass. They fit well in the hand and the spray heads work flawlessly. Instead of the usual caps, white lacquered metal bells are placed over the bottles to protect the contents from light exposure. This makes sense, but the implementation does not necessarily appeal to my taste, as it looks very "organic." I would be very curious to know what Jil Sander herself would say about this…. But as is well known, taste is subjective.

Here is an excerpt from the American Vogue featuring Lucie and Luke Meier, chief designers of Jil Sander, discussing the bottles:
Quote "Of course, the bottles themselves are a statement. Made in collaboration with FormFantasma, each of the glass bottles is perfectly imperfect and is meant to feature bubbles and other things that were once considered imperfections in the industry. 'We felt that this gives the bottles a lot of soul and adds a human touch,' says Luke. 'Packaging can be very industrial, and we wanted to craft it by hand.
Instead of a cap, each bottle comes with a white porcelain bell that fits perfectly. It is incredibly satisfying to put it on and take it off. 'It felt very human to create this gesture of putting the cap back on after use,' says Lucie. It is also practical - sunlight can quickly spoil a fragrance, and the opaque cap prevents possible damage. 'We liked the natural colors of the bottle and the fragrance, so this was our solution.
Formafantasma is a research-oriented design studio that examines the ecological, historical, political, and social forces that shape the design discipline today. Whether designing for a client or developing self-initiated projects, the studio always applies the same rigorous attention to context, processes, and details. Formafantasma's analytical character is reflected in careful visual outcomes, products, and strategies." (End quote)

All in all, I can say that the fragrances I tested did not completely convince me. They are far from bad, but also not the big hit I had hoped for. In terms of quality, they are perfectly fine and certainly worth the €230 for 100ml. The design (apart from the strange "bells") is also acceptable, and the fact that they are refillable bottles fits with the sustainability thinking of our time. Only that the scents unfortunately will not remain sustainably in my memory.

Statements

8 short views on the fragrance

ParfumAholic

11 months ago

8Scent 7Longevity 7Sillage

31

40

Freshly roasted coffee, fine powder, and soft Peru balsam create a warm, charming feel-good scent.

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Pollita

8 months ago

7.5Scent 7Longevity 7Sillage

25

24

We drink black coffee
from wooden cups
your lipstick
leaves a nude mark
on the edge

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Parma

10 months ago

7.5Scent 9Longevity 6Sillage

19

16

First clear, but understated DHI parallels. Then a gentle cardamom coffee note reminiscent of Iris Torréfié. Later, a sweetly generic designer base.

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CharlAmbre

8 months ago

7Scent 8Longevity 7Sillage

17

23

Dusty gray iris on wood with silver lipstick, next to a long-forgotten coffee cup with powder-dry remnants.

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Heikeso

10 months ago

7Scent 7Longevity 6Sillage

15

17

The opening with the dusty dry iris doesn't last long. After that, I get a spiced coffee, steaming and warming in the fresh ...

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DasCroe

9 months ago

4.5Scent 6Longevity 7Sillage

12

6

Drama at Starbucks: Powder puff drowned in vanilla latte. The combo makes me uneasy. I'll pass...

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ForeverJil

11 months ago

8Scent 8Longevity 8Sillage

11

3

Wonderful coffee note with lipstick vibes like Dior Homme. In the drydown, hints of Black Afgano. Pure elegance, but it might be too sharp for some noses.

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