The latest fragrance letter from Turandot included, alongside some very beautiful things, a very interesting brochure from the house of “Le Galion”.
Over the years, we have maintained quite a close contact behind the scenes, and therefore she always knows very well what interests me and how she can bring me joy.
Of course, I immediately thought of “Sortilège”, which my mother gifted me as a parfum de toilette; I was just fourteen or fifteen years old and suddenly felt so grown-up.
And Turandot also has a similar memory that is also connected to “Sortilège”.
We are almost the same age, and so we both still remember what it was like to be out and about on Sundays and holidays in our confirmation dresses, which were worn as “fine” on appropriate occasions as long as they fit. And surely we also smelled quite intense of “Sortilège”.
At that time, it was probably considered the appropriate scent for very young, growing women.
I still remember well that my bottle was not too large and probably held 30 ml.
An elegant glass bottle that felt pleasant in the hand and enclosed the fragrance treasure within with a slender black cap; back then, it was dabbed on and not sprayed.
The story of the house “Le Galion” has often been told and is still interesting every time.
In 1930, Prince Murat, a relative of Joachim Murat, King of Naples and son-in-law of Emperor Napoleon I, founded the perfume house “Le Galion” in Paris.
Since then, the galleon, the three-masted sailing ship with its wind-filled sails, has sailed as the company emblem on the tasteful bottles.
The brand “Le Galion” Parfumeurs de Paris was born.
The first fragrances created were named “Chypre”, “Indian Summer”, “Champ de Mai”, “Il n’est qu’à ma”, "Fougère" and finally “111” and “222”.
An impressive start into the great world of fragrances.
In 1935, Prince Murat sold his company to Paul Vacher; already then a famous perfumer, who had created the wonderful fragrance “Arpège” for the fashion house of Jeanne Lanvin in 1927.
(His name would later shine even more brilliantly in connection with Christian Dior.)
And already the following year, the fragrance icon of the house was born: “Sortilège”.
A fragrance that women around the world wore, which enchanted them.
It has been 85 years since then: unimaginable!
And yet “Sortilège” is not forgotten, but has just been resurrected in this decade.
With a little less baggage, but surely more lively and youthful.
But that is not what we are here to discuss; we will stick to “Sortilège” as an Eau de Parfum, which brought Turandot and me our shared teenage memory.
The fragrance pyramid of “Le Galion” (and also elsewhere) differs in some fragrance notes from the one presented here.
So I will try to paint a fragrance picture based on those that “Le Galion” lists in its brochure, which somewhat comes close to the elegant and yet fine fragrance being of our memories.
I am sure Turandot will later correct my mistakes or add some color touches in the right places.
“Sortilège” belongs to the family of floral chypre fragrances and thus starts with the enchanting spring floral classics lily of the valley, always white, cheeky, and a little hidden, often under the bushes of lilac, whose thick flower clusters lavishly distribute their scent several “levels” higher.
Ylang-Ylang, the third floral beauty in the bunch, generously shares its scent with these two.
The radiance of aldehydes adds even more expressiveness and ensures an impressive appearance.
That’s a good thing! Because now come the beauties that love to be in the spotlight and would do anything for it:
The herb-sweet scent of mimosa still lingers with the daffodil here, both not too big “scent monsters”, but beautiful in their own fragrant way.
The brief restraint in the top note is given up by the powerful and intensely fragrant white jasmine in the evening hours; it immediately takes a leading role in this fragrance painting. The Turkish rose follows suit; both harmonize very well as always.
Her Highness Iris, slender and noble, joins these pretty fragrant beings, which appear too radiant and transparent for her; she desires a higher cuddle factor with more depth, and thus this garden flower dream becomes powdery and therefore more feminine-sensual, softer through her appearance.
The base walks again on the well-known chypre paths, so that the light earthy nuance of vetiver fits in immediately.
Sandalwood and labdanum, the spicy resin of the rockrose with its always somewhat crumpled-looking flowers and leaves, appear a bit rougher and leave behind a slightly scratchy, sensual accord, which is further intensified by warm musky touches and radiant amber glow as a highlight.
“Sortilège” as a parfum de toilette was not a fragrance force that came loud or bothersome.
This fragrance picture painted in beautiful floral and spicy green and brown tones was very well suited to us still very young girls in its fragrant delicacy.
It wrapped around our still delicate shoulders like a light fragrance cloak.
Thus, the very beautifully and informatively designed brochure of a perfume brand brings memories to life that keep me awake this night.
More than fifty years have passed since two young “misses” left the children's room and began their journey through life, accompanied by “Sortilège” parfum de toilette, never quite without fragrances.
Was "Sortilège" our key to this world, which fragrance will close it?
Top Notes 
Aldehydes
Neroli
Peach
Bergamot
Hyacinth
Strawberry
Heart Notes 
Iris
Jasmine
Lilac
Lily of the valley
Rose
Violet
Ylang-ylang
Base Notes 
Oakmoss
Sandalwood
Cedar
Civet
Musk
Tonka bean
Vanilla
Vetiver
JonasP1
Marieposa
Midnights
IrisNobile
ParfumAholic
Serenissima
Mustang69
