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Serenissima
Top Review
17
fragrant young girl dreams
The latest fragrance letter from Turandot contained, in addition to again very beautiful, a very interesting brochure of the house "Le Galion".
We maintain over the years here behind the scenes quite a close contact and therefore she always knows very well what interests me and with what she can make me a joy.
Of course, I also immediately thought of "Sortilège", which my mom gave me as a perfume de toilette; I was just fourteen or fifteen years old and suddenly felt so grown up.
And Turandot also has a similar memory, also related to "Sortilège."
We are almost the same age and so we both still know how it was to be out and about on Sundays and holidays in our confirmation dress, which was still worn, as long as it fit, as "fine" on appropriate occasions. And certainly we also smelled quite intensely of "Sortilège".
That was probably felt at the time as the appropriate fragrance for very young adolescent women.
I remember well that my flacon was not too big and probably held 30 ml.
An elegant glass flacon that was comfortable in the hand and by means of a slim black lid included the fragrance treasure in it; at that time was still dabbed and not sprayed.
The story of the house of "Le Galion" has been told many times and yet is always interesting.
in 1930, Prince Murat, a relative of Joachim Murat, King of Naples and son-in-law of Emperor Napoleon I, founded the perfume house "Le Galion" in Paris.
Since then, the galleon, the three-masted sailing ship with the sails blown by the wind, sails as the company emblem on the tasteful flacons.
The brand "Le Galion" Parfumeurs de Paris was born.
The first fragrances created were named "Chypre", "Indian Summer", "Champ de Mai", "Il n'est qu'à ma", "Fougère" and finally "111" and "222".
An impressive start, therefore, in the great world of fragrances.
in 1935, Prince Murat sold his company to Paul Vacher; already at that time a famous perfumer, who had already created the wonderful fragrance "Arpège" for the fashion house of Jeanne Lanvin in 1927.
(His name was later to shine even more brilliantly in connection with Christian Dior.)
And already in the following year, the fragrance icon of the house was created: "Sortilège".
A fragrance that women around the world wore, which enchanted them.
85 years ago now: unimaginable!
And yet "Sortilège" is not yet forgotten, but just in this decade resurrected.
With a little less ballast, but certainly snappier and younger.
But of this should not be the talk now; we stay with the "Sortilège" as an Eau de Parfum, which brought Turandot and me the common teenager memory.
The fragrance pyramid of "Le Galion" (and also elsewhere) differs yet in some fragrance notes from the one reproduced here.
So I will try from those that "Le Galion" lists in its brochure to paint a fragrance picture that comes reasonably close to the elegant yet subtle fragrance essence of memory known to us.
I'm sure Turandot will later correct my mistakes or add a few more splashes of color in the right places.
"Sortilège" is from the family of floral chypre fragrances and so also starts with the enchanting spring floral classics lily of the valley, as always white, perky and a bit hidden, gladly under the bushes of lilac, whose thick flower umbels a few "floors" higher lavishly distribute their fragrance.
Ylang-ylang, here third fragrance beauty in the bunch, gives these two generously with its fragrance.
The radiance of aldehydes adds even more expressiveness, ensuring an impressive appearance.
This is also a good thing! Because now follow the beauties who are so fond of being the center of attention and would also do anything for it:
The tart-sweet scent of mimosa still holds here to the narcissus, both not too big "scent monsters", but beautiful in their very own fragrance.
The brief restraint in the top note, however, is abandoned by the powerful and intensely fragrant white jasmine in the evening hours; it immediately plays a leading role in this fragrance painting. The Turkish fragrance rose does it immediately after him; both harmonize very well, as always.
Her Highness Iris, slender and noble, joins these pretty fragrance creatures, but they seem too radiant and transparent to her; she wants a higher cuddle factor with more depth and so this garden flower dream by her appearance becomes more powdery and thus womanly-sensual, softer.
The base walks again on the well known chypre paths, so that the light earthy nuance of vetiver immediately adapts well.
Sandalwood and labdanum, the spicy resin of cistus with its always somewhat crumpled flowers and leaves, appear a bit rougher, leaving a slightly scratchy, sensual accord, which is further enhanced by warm musk dabs and radiant amber glow as a highlight.
"Sortilège" as a parfum de toilette was not a fragrance force that came across as loud or annoying.
This fragrance painted in beautiful floral and spicy green and brown tones was in its fragrant delicacy very well suited to us yet still very young girls.
It laid itself like a light Duft-Mäntelchen around our still tender shoulders.
So the very beautifully and informatively designed brochure of a perfume brand brings to life memories that keep me awake that night.
It is now more than fifty years since two young "Misses" left the nursery and began their journey through life, never quite without fragrances, in the company of "Sortilège" Parfum de Toilette.
Was "Sortilège" our door opener to this world, which fragrance will probably close it?
Top Notes 
Heart Notes 
Base Notes 
