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10/15/2020
FvSpee
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Neukölln 9: The ideal overall Cologne
Because of my cologne series, some of you have already booked me as the monomaniacal and slightly quirky cologne guy from around the corner. This gives me reason to emphasize (in! all! form!) that my fragrance interests are quite broadly based. I also like patchouli and frankincense, oud, labdanum and myrtle, and my favourite scents include Opium pour homme and Antaeus. Yes, sir!
That is why I have considered whether I should consciously choose a non-cologne for my fragrance test no. 1000. Inspired by Gold's great commentary, I thought of the original Miss Dior from 1947, of which I have owned a (still unopened and reverently eyed) sample container for weeks now, thanks to a generous perfuma.
But it's just that I really enjoy working my way through the Cologne universe by smelling and writing. Because I find it highly interesting, incredibly versatile and, wrongly, often left out a little bit as inferior. And that's why this time again a Cologne has become a Cologne.
Lorenzo Villoresi is an Italian born in 1956, who has long run a perfume label in Florence that bears his name. He doesn't make fashion, only fragrances, and he doesn't make them for any label, but uncompromisingly himself and as he wants (well, he will have collaborators, even the great Florentine painters didn't paint every oil ham themselves, they had their "schools" for that). He has a certain (also biographically based) inclination to oriental scents, but this inclination is not rigid and exclusive. I only knew two "white" scents of him, Teint de Neige (snow-white skin) and Iperborea (approximately: north wind), which I found both very unusual and valuable (but not necessarily created for me).
Now then, his colonia! I start with the surroundings and work my way to the actual fragrance.
We are (unsurprisingly) not dealing with a cheap product here. In his online shop Mr. V. offers the fragrance for 84 Euro at 50 ml and for 116 Euro at 100 ml. I find it very funny that for 174 Euro there is also the "king's flacon", which also contains 100 ml, but where the cap and the label are silver-plated instead of simple metal. About 60 Euro for a probably thousandth of a millimeter thick silver layer - that's a great offer for real snobs and for people who like Mr. Villoresi so much that they just want to give him a royal tip under the pretext of such a purchase!
The shelf life of colonia is a few hours. The fragrance thus occupies a fairly exact middle position between the very volatile classic colognes from 4711 to Guerlain on the one hand and, for example, the yellow-labelled Colonia of Acqua di Parma created in 1916 (which has a practically full-day shelf life).
Villoresis AdC begins with a brilliant thick, juicy, deep yellow lemon zest. There is no bergamot, no neroli, no sour lemon - just the plump, aromatic lemon peel. The second, even in the first minute, I am joined by a very soft, fine "brown" note: I had thought of a hint of nutmeg or caraway, but after a look at the scents I assume that I was dealing with cloves and sage (which are only recorded in the heart).
In the further course of the performance the other notes of this colonia unfold, yes, it really blossoms (but always remains finely discreet). Depending on the phase in which you smell, and on how you calibrate your nose, you can smell an almost arch-classical farinic (the five notes of lemon, bergamot, neroli, rosemary and lavender are completely present) or you can smell a bright, so to speak, white-yellow tinted cologne with the bergamot preponderance (known to regular readers of my comments) (in fact, at about minute 5 this fragrance reminds me strongly of the Cologne Classique from Alpa, which I love, but only costs 1% of this fragrance). If you focus on the lavender, you can enjoy it, if you smell the orange notes, you can smell them almost as beautifully as an eau de Portugal (I agree with Yatagan that this is also a very nice petitgrain scent), and finally the spicy-brown, clovey touch remains present, as if the scent also wants to put out the feelers towards "colonial goods".
So this fragrance is like a panopticon, bringing together everything that the Cologne universe has to offer. To paraphrase Friedrich Engels, it is, to put it mildly, the idealistic overall Cologne.
For me, Acqua di Colonia is also a very beautiful fragrance, full of substance and character, rather masculine, impressive and very well made (even if you do without the silver-plated cap). It has enough stability to be absolutely wearable all year round, even in slippery weather like today. I see it more dignified than sparkling primarily on men's Ü40 (I don't want to keep any female student from taking a test, it's a free country!), all in all it goes well with an Italian tailor-made suit as well as with an autumnal umbrella from Brigg & Sons.
Villoresi was unable to trigger the last fireworks of enthusiasm, tender affection or erotic crackling with this work, which is why he still scored 8.74 points in the overall standings, unlike Yatagan, Murderer Bee and Magic 600.
That is why I have considered whether I should consciously choose a non-cologne for my fragrance test no. 1000. Inspired by Gold's great commentary, I thought of the original Miss Dior from 1947, of which I have owned a (still unopened and reverently eyed) sample container for weeks now, thanks to a generous perfuma.
But it's just that I really enjoy working my way through the Cologne universe by smelling and writing. Because I find it highly interesting, incredibly versatile and, wrongly, often left out a little bit as inferior. And that's why this time again a Cologne has become a Cologne.
Lorenzo Villoresi is an Italian born in 1956, who has long run a perfume label in Florence that bears his name. He doesn't make fashion, only fragrances, and he doesn't make them for any label, but uncompromisingly himself and as he wants (well, he will have collaborators, even the great Florentine painters didn't paint every oil ham themselves, they had their "schools" for that). He has a certain (also biographically based) inclination to oriental scents, but this inclination is not rigid and exclusive. I only knew two "white" scents of him, Teint de Neige (snow-white skin) and Iperborea (approximately: north wind), which I found both very unusual and valuable (but not necessarily created for me).
Now then, his colonia! I start with the surroundings and work my way to the actual fragrance.
We are (unsurprisingly) not dealing with a cheap product here. In his online shop Mr. V. offers the fragrance for 84 Euro at 50 ml and for 116 Euro at 100 ml. I find it very funny that for 174 Euro there is also the "king's flacon", which also contains 100 ml, but where the cap and the label are silver-plated instead of simple metal. About 60 Euro for a probably thousandth of a millimeter thick silver layer - that's a great offer for real snobs and for people who like Mr. Villoresi so much that they just want to give him a royal tip under the pretext of such a purchase!
The shelf life of colonia is a few hours. The fragrance thus occupies a fairly exact middle position between the very volatile classic colognes from 4711 to Guerlain on the one hand and, for example, the yellow-labelled Colonia of Acqua di Parma created in 1916 (which has a practically full-day shelf life).
Villoresis AdC begins with a brilliant thick, juicy, deep yellow lemon zest. There is no bergamot, no neroli, no sour lemon - just the plump, aromatic lemon peel. The second, even in the first minute, I am joined by a very soft, fine "brown" note: I had thought of a hint of nutmeg or caraway, but after a look at the scents I assume that I was dealing with cloves and sage (which are only recorded in the heart).
In the further course of the performance the other notes of this colonia unfold, yes, it really blossoms (but always remains finely discreet). Depending on the phase in which you smell, and on how you calibrate your nose, you can smell an almost arch-classical farinic (the five notes of lemon, bergamot, neroli, rosemary and lavender are completely present) or you can smell a bright, so to speak, white-yellow tinted cologne with the bergamot preponderance (known to regular readers of my comments) (in fact, at about minute 5 this fragrance reminds me strongly of the Cologne Classique from Alpa, which I love, but only costs 1% of this fragrance). If you focus on the lavender, you can enjoy it, if you smell the orange notes, you can smell them almost as beautifully as an eau de Portugal (I agree with Yatagan that this is also a very nice petitgrain scent), and finally the spicy-brown, clovey touch remains present, as if the scent also wants to put out the feelers towards "colonial goods".
So this fragrance is like a panopticon, bringing together everything that the Cologne universe has to offer. To paraphrase Friedrich Engels, it is, to put it mildly, the idealistic overall Cologne.
For me, Acqua di Colonia is also a very beautiful fragrance, full of substance and character, rather masculine, impressive and very well made (even if you do without the silver-plated cap). It has enough stability to be absolutely wearable all year round, even in slippery weather like today. I see it more dignified than sparkling primarily on men's Ü40 (I don't want to keep any female student from taking a test, it's a free country!), all in all it goes well with an Italian tailor-made suit as well as with an autumnal umbrella from Brigg & Sons.
Villoresi was unable to trigger the last fireworks of enthusiasm, tender affection or erotic crackling with this work, which is why he still scored 8.74 points in the overall standings, unlike Yatagan, Murderer Bee and Magic 600.
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