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Pollita
Top Review
55
The two faces of Mr. Villoresi
Lorenzo Villoresi is one of those perfumers who surprise me again and again. While many modern mainstream fragrances, as well as most niche fragrances - with the exception of independent labels and natural fragrances - often no longer have great scent progressions, this Italian master of fragrances still offers them in a way that I am accustomed to from true classics. Some of his fragrances have, believe it or not, two faces. Among others, Yerbamate, which starts as a herbaceous-crisp green and ends in a soft, warm powdery fluff. Villoresi does a similar thing here with Musk. Again, there are two very different phases that make up this fragrance.
Musk begins as already Yerbamate somewhat pithy, however pithy to my taste. There is a wonderful tart green cardamom note accompanied by the slightly bitter tones of galbanum. There are also gentle hints of rose and rose geranium. If I didn't know better what I was testing here, I would have also suspected a light incense note at this stage. In the top notes, and still partly in the heart, this perfume reminds me of many a work by Olivia Giacobetti. Cool, white, somewhat floral. Passage d'Enfer sends its regards. Exactly in this style also Musk goes to the start. No trace of musk so far. The fragrance seems grounded, serious and controlled.
Unlike Yerbamate, which knows how to inspire me only in the rear with its soft powdery tones, it is with Musk this first half hour to hour, in which he has me fully in the clutches. If it stayed like this, it could also stay with me and enrich my collection. But this fragrance also has two faces and changes completely for my nose. Towards the base, it also reveals itself as a warm musk scent and leaves room for a light amber note. But there is more. All of a sudden, I have the sensation of perceiving waxy aldehydes. I'm at a clean scent here, which goes in the direction of soapy-clean. The sandalwood note in the background is even gorgeous, but that's not enough for me then all in all, unfortunately. This soapy foam bath that remains is no longer quite my world. Too French, classically chic. Where has my bright, white cardamom smokiness gone? Unfortunately, she has long since moved on and quietly said goodbye to me.
But no matter whether you are now more on the creaky start or the soapy final act. This is a fragrance that needs to be discovered. Rarely have I experienced such clear and unexpected progressions in fragrances, as with Lorenzo Villoresi. Absolutely test!
Many thanks to Violett for the sample.