05/21/2025

Smeriglio
72 Reviews

Smeriglio
1
The Greek Hero
Let's say it has a retro olfactory imprint that borders on the more recent amber trend. A reading of the presence of the notes could make us think of an important presence of the vetiver note, which could also represent the sword of the Greek hero Theseus, but this instrument of death is not as incisive as one might think. It begins with light citrus fruits, a consistent dose of elaborate nutmeg (that is, the same smell of the spice has not been reproduced, but rather something indefinite and more sugary) and in a lesser way pepper and sage. After a while the vetiver creeps in which at first, that is during the central phase is graceful, assisted by a few notes, more than anything a talc note given by the presence of the iris with a sort of labdanum in the background, so as not to remove the composition from the category of amber and unisex. Like a sword that whistles in the air, but held by a female hand. Later, as the drydown arrives, the vetiver becomes more earthy, the perfume, at this point is heavier, like a sword that pierces the opponent. It takes on a multifaceted character, with a measured presence of leather, the tonka bean is there to sweeten (it does it a little too much), a barely hinted woody note of out joins a less flashy one of patchouli. To conclude, leaving aside the goodness of the raw materials, it is a combination of notes that I cannot judge more than average, simply for the fact that it was designed to be unisex.