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Shpeeep
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Cloudgazing from a powdery herb garden
In love with the first spritz. A heady bitter green, but appealing - how I imagine a giraffe feels sticking his head into tree canopy and taking a munch! This lasts about 45 seconds before my skin warms it up and absorbs all the green, leaving a very pleasant powdery natural smell. I can understand the soapy notes others are smelling, though I associate soapy smells with the more citrus-detergent vibe I get from some freshies, this is more of a 'straight after an "everything shower" using only high quality natural products I got at a maker's market' soapy, like olive oil and clay soap full of herbal essential oils, and a unisex moisturising oil made by some kind local witchy lady. I am not getting yerbamate but I do get a smell of earl grey tea with lavender syrup and lemon butter shortbread, taken in the parlour of a mysterious and impeccably clean and well decorated estate, looking out the bay windows to the lawn which is being mown by a handsome stranger in a bohemian shirt and tweed pants using a quiet old mechanical push mower. I've only had it on half an hour but I can tell from how it soaks into my skin and is already fading that it'll be a skin scent on me by two hours. I'll update this if I am proven wrong, and to state how long before it's imperceptible. I'm extremely glad to have a travel size decant of this delicious concoction, but sadly I don't think I'll get a full bottle if the longevity really is so short.
If you like the opening of this and want a more affordable way to get a similar vibe, sample Lush's guardian of the forest body spray! If you like the opening and dry down of this but wish they intermingled for longer and are willing to lose the powdery soapiness, try Andrea Maack's Coven.
UPDATES: After an hour it is a barely perceptible skin scent of powder and well moisturised skin, it's giving 'clean baby'. On clothes it's still there, green but not 'fresh' green, more sour galbanum than anything else but I am starting to smell a tiny hint of the mate on the fabric swatch. I really like it actually, but it's not going to be a crowd pleaser. It is sour in an ever so slightly animalic way that I know is a very polarising manifestation of galbanum.
After 2.5 hours it is gone from my skin and a barely perceptible hint of powder on fabric. However it did 'revive' a little on skin after an hour to bring a touch of lemon tea back to the powder I mentioned at the 1 hour mark, so I would say you get a solid two hours from this. If it was 4 hours and the top notes lasted half an hour instead of half a minute, this would be an immediate buy. As is, this is a 'if we win the lottery and I have 100 full bottles instead of 5, I want it'.
I sprayed 3 more sprays when it wore off, to compare 1 spray to 3. All I can say is don't overspray this. Yes, you can boost the sillage, but that just makes the room you're in smell like clean powdered baby bum. It's not a compliment getter ('I can smell talc in here??') or a crowd pleaser, it's very much a for yourself scent if you like it. One or two spritzes is enough! You may need to reapply every two hours though.
This is not season locked to the warm months like you might expect from reading the notes, there's something warming about the 'steaming lemon tea' notes in the powdery rosewood drydown that evokes portholes rubbed into fogged up windows to peek out at frosty garden while cozied up in a wool jumper fresh out of powdery fragrant storage. I think this is a 3.5 season wear, not fresh enough for high summer in humid climates.
Closing thoughts: this sneaky bastard of a fragrance sucked me in with it's powerfully vegetal bitter green opening and then it TRICKED ME into liking it's incredibly powdery, clean moisturised skin, unboxing a perfectly preserved vintage day dress, neutral floral musk. Nothing about that is up my alley. But I love this. I want to wear this to sleep. I want to spray this directly into my dresser drawer full of jumpers. I feel like an exquisitely handmade stuffed toy with lovingly placed dried flowers and baby powder in my stuffing come to life. Also, it lasts longer when you use more of it, about 3.5 hours and it's still faintly perceptible if I press my nose into the fabric. Still not very long lived, but more than the initial two hours from my very light initial application. Unisex/genderless scent but undiluted powdery notes do read as grandma to a lot of people.