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Notes11/05/2019
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18
The Matryoshka Chypree
Already in 1985 (a decade of great odor fermentation and enormous expression of oriental scents) paco rabanne launched the third female perfume on the market (after the two flowery chypre scents like metal and calabria).
To this end, he turned to his internal perfumer of the time: the great nose of Rosendo Mateu and under the direction of another mythical composer Jean Guichard.
They worked on this fragrance for over a year and a half and only after producing a chypree leather did they decide on the fruity floral genre, a choice that was certainly determined by the olfactory trend and market trends of the time. However, it should be noted that this rare perfume had more than just added value. In fact, it is not a simple chypre leather perfume, but a subtle expression of various olfactory subcategories to which it belongs.
The idea was to build a chypree with a strong dose of honey, but the overall result was a much more complex, deep and magical fragrance.
The opening is very strong and full of aromatic skin, very similar to a masculine leather (Belami of Hermes and Moschino pour homme). So we are talking about a skin that has been dried under the scorching sun and sprinkled with black pepper for a few minutes, then a glowing honey comes out a minute later, melting the hot and glowing skin with its sluggish seduction. We speak of a wild, dark, dry honey (similar to miel de bois from serge lutens), which is strengthened by oak moss.
In the second phase, the rose becomes the protagonist: a dirty, animal and fleshy rose due to the enormous amount of animal civet in the formula. In this case we are talking about a real civet cat!
In this second phase we can determine the splendour of the fruity chypree with the dense and juicy peach at the limit of its maturation, which results in a strong fruity effect, while maintaining its raw and fleshy skin appearance.
In the third phase, we see the presence of an oriental aromatic chypree with a strong pungency that covers every other note, even that of the skin, in some features. After a few hours of the third phase, the wood component stabilizes the perfume with notes of animal musk, cedar wood, patchouli and amber, giving the perfume a robust and impressive effect.
All this is called La Nuit and this name has never been so perfect that it gives a fragrance because it is the smell of sin in the night, a radiant night in which every erotic and highly perverse dream can be realized.
The result of such a masterpiece was completely unexpected, as building a chypree with three subcategories (leathery, fruity and flowery) is almost impossible. This is a treasure that has gone a little unnoticed, but on the other hand such masterpieces never reach a wide audience.
A jewel, a treasure, a sexual amulet.
All this speaks for the mythical decade of the 80s and today we can only say: How much of everything has remained? The answer is yours!
(The review concerns the 1985 computer version.
Sorry for all the mistakes, but German is not my language. I hope, however, that my message has arrived!)
To this end, he turned to his internal perfumer of the time: the great nose of Rosendo Mateu and under the direction of another mythical composer Jean Guichard.
They worked on this fragrance for over a year and a half and only after producing a chypree leather did they decide on the fruity floral genre, a choice that was certainly determined by the olfactory trend and market trends of the time. However, it should be noted that this rare perfume had more than just added value. In fact, it is not a simple chypre leather perfume, but a subtle expression of various olfactory subcategories to which it belongs.
The idea was to build a chypree with a strong dose of honey, but the overall result was a much more complex, deep and magical fragrance.
The opening is very strong and full of aromatic skin, very similar to a masculine leather (Belami of Hermes and Moschino pour homme). So we are talking about a skin that has been dried under the scorching sun and sprinkled with black pepper for a few minutes, then a glowing honey comes out a minute later, melting the hot and glowing skin with its sluggish seduction. We speak of a wild, dark, dry honey (similar to miel de bois from serge lutens), which is strengthened by oak moss.
In the second phase, the rose becomes the protagonist: a dirty, animal and fleshy rose due to the enormous amount of animal civet in the formula. In this case we are talking about a real civet cat!
In this second phase we can determine the splendour of the fruity chypree with the dense and juicy peach at the limit of its maturation, which results in a strong fruity effect, while maintaining its raw and fleshy skin appearance.
In the third phase, we see the presence of an oriental aromatic chypree with a strong pungency that covers every other note, even that of the skin, in some features. After a few hours of the third phase, the wood component stabilizes the perfume with notes of animal musk, cedar wood, patchouli and amber, giving the perfume a robust and impressive effect.
All this is called La Nuit and this name has never been so perfect that it gives a fragrance because it is the smell of sin in the night, a radiant night in which every erotic and highly perverse dream can be realized.
The result of such a masterpiece was completely unexpected, as building a chypree with three subcategories (leathery, fruity and flowery) is almost impossible. This is a treasure that has gone a little unnoticed, but on the other hand such masterpieces never reach a wide audience.
A jewel, a treasure, a sexual amulet.
All this speaks for the mythical decade of the 80s and today we can only say: How much of everything has remained? The answer is yours!
(The review concerns the 1985 computer version.
Sorry for all the mistakes, but German is not my language. I hope, however, that my message has arrived!)
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