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06/15/2021
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The L'Héritage Corse releases, meanwhile, define a coherent next round at Parfum d'Empire that, despite an older rewrite, perhaps only really and unambiguously started with Corsica Furisoa (2015). Many of the previous releases have always followed the pillars and little basics of perfumery with ample sophistication: Leather, amber, fougère interpretations, florals, citric, chypres: since Corsica Furisoa, the focus has been on idiosyncratic ingredients and terroir, gladly referring to specific distillations that reference Corticchiato's academic career - the researcher as author and vice versa. In the case of Mal-Aimé, this goes so far that the specialist whose know-how is behind the extraction of the central ingredient is also attributed a leading role in the narrative and construction of this perfume
Mal-Aimé, a charming, mischievous title that makes me think of Bel Ami backwards, or similar Romance word constructions for folkloric-unfinished-but-delicately-loved things like mal-assadas. Although Mal-Aimé, for all its green-ness, seems somehow familiar, its outstanding quality is how refreshingly unfamiliar, unscented and under-defined this perfume seems in large part. Mal-Aimé celebrates its un-: herbal clearly, but what of it exactly - leaf, stem, root, bleed, pollen included? Herb or flower? To smell such an un- is first and foremost a liberating pleasure.
The impossible as well as excellent image of a green immortelle from Profumo's statement is basically all it takes to get an idea of Mal-Aimé. Green walnut shells? Or as a detour via Corsica Furisoa, a complementary, passe piece, counterpart to Mal-Aimé that addresses many things inverted. If Corsica Furisoa is tangy, resinous-sour, bitter-high-percentage, and in the microtonal range more multifaceted, louder, and thanks to tomato leaf and mastic as a perfume also more familiar; Mal-Aimé is oily-voluminous, warm-bitter, digestive-like, more discrete, reduced-concentrated in construction, and above all, more unknown. Such spectral contrasts could be taken further; a certain fuzziness of this approximation will remain.
In high humidity, Mal-Aimé evaporates quite quickly and is extremely purposeful in its development: fresh attack with a subtle spirit note, this herbaceous-bitter and only briefly present before the volume becomes rounder, denser, warmer and stickier - a honeyed viscosity, similar to the sensation as the leaves of cistus in puntco 'stickiness'. The elecampane takes control, the iris root is somewhere part of the whole but mostly intangible and much remains wonderfully association-free.
Mal-Aimé, a charming, mischievous title that makes me think of Bel Ami backwards, or similar Romance word constructions for folkloric-unfinished-but-delicately-loved things like mal-assadas. Although Mal-Aimé, for all its green-ness, seems somehow familiar, its outstanding quality is how refreshingly unfamiliar, unscented and under-defined this perfume seems in large part. Mal-Aimé celebrates its un-: herbal clearly, but what of it exactly - leaf, stem, root, bleed, pollen included? Herb or flower? To smell such an un- is first and foremost a liberating pleasure.
The impossible as well as excellent image of a green immortelle from Profumo's statement is basically all it takes to get an idea of Mal-Aimé. Green walnut shells? Or as a detour via Corsica Furisoa, a complementary, passe piece, counterpart to Mal-Aimé that addresses many things inverted. If Corsica Furisoa is tangy, resinous-sour, bitter-high-percentage, and in the microtonal range more multifaceted, louder, and thanks to tomato leaf and mastic as a perfume also more familiar; Mal-Aimé is oily-voluminous, warm-bitter, digestive-like, more discrete, reduced-concentrated in construction, and above all, more unknown. Such spectral contrasts could be taken further; a certain fuzziness of this approximation will remain.
In high humidity, Mal-Aimé evaporates quite quickly and is extremely purposeful in its development: fresh attack with a subtle spirit note, this herbaceous-bitter and only briefly present before the volume becomes rounder, denser, warmer and stickier - a honeyed viscosity, similar to the sensation as the leaves of cistus in puntco 'stickiness'. The elecampane takes control, the iris root is somewhere part of the whole but mostly intangible and much remains wonderfully association-free.
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