Bourbon vanilla
Cinnamon
Clove
Cocoa
Pepper
Rum
Coconut
DrB1414
264 Reviews
DrB1414
Very helpful Review
9
Requiem for an “Unforgettable Beverage”
I debated sharing my thoughts on this since it hasn’t been officially released, but it’s too good to keep to myself. Huge thanks to Alexis from Parfum D’Empire for the unexpected and beautiful surprise.
When I heard the news that Marc-Antoine was doing a Vanilla perfume, I had my doubts, to put it lightly. Then, I recalled Ruade and how glorious that one turned out to be, and decided to put my trust in one of the very few noses that never failed to impress me. This man is one of the most consistent perfumers out there, and that’s why I’m following him closely.
Now, I am not a vanilla lover, and I don’t like sweet/gourmand perfumes. However, if they are handled well, I can be swayed. For reference, perfumes such as Roucel’s Musc Ravageur, Jinkoh’s Vanilla Paradise, Vaan from NOT Perfumes, Guerlain’s Spiritueuse Double Vanille, Mona’s Vanille, and Lutens’ Un Bois Vanille are a few that I own or appreciate. And now, I am adding this upcoming Parfum D’Empire creation to that list. Yes, it is worth ranking among them. However, this one brings something different to the game, a heavy emphasis on Rum. Hence, be prepared for a proper “boozy experience.”
When I received the decant, I decided to run tests on paper strips and skin without reading the blurb. A complete blind test. I was not expecting the rum and the dried fruits to play such a significant role in the composition. Then I started picking up the tobacco, the spices, the woods, and hints of coconut(very soft). Obviously, the vanilla is omnipresent, and they used a tincture, a CO2 extract, and the absolute. Therefore, you get a myriad facets. Nothing like the cheap vanillin-saturated compositions that swamp the market, most often infused with a generous sickly-sweet amount of ethyl maltol. The dry fruit accord is very pronounced for me, although not listed, and I suspect it might be a “phantom note” as a result of the materials used; both the vanilla and the tobacco can give off such facets. The texture of the fragrance is very “syrupy,” like a vanilla-flavored beverage. On paper, it shifted from syrupy to leafy-dry, and then back, but on my skin, it never gets dry and stays slimy throughout. The sweetness has become manageable now after wearing it five times, although during the first tests, I was certain it was too sweet for me. Perhaps I got used to it. All I know is that it doesn’t bother me now. Based on the name, I was expecting a very balmy experience, not such a treacly one. Afterward, I read the pamphlet that describes the composition and the inspiration behind the scent, and it started to make sense. Apparently, Marc-Antoine decided to capture in this perfume an “unforgettable beverage” he had the pleasure of enjoying during his trips to Madagascar. A beverage made from rum infused with vanilla pods, among others. While I didn’t have the luck of tasting such an indigenous delicacy, I think he did manage to evoke that experience through this perfume. As mentioned, it feels like a rum specialty drink infused with vanilla, perhaps served with some dried fruits and cigars on the side. The tobacco is present but not too overt. I believe it plays a supporting role rather than trying to establish itself, and helps to create the dried fruit accord. From the spices, I get lots of clove, more than cinnamon, and I don’t pick up the cocoa at all. The coconut is hardly noticeable, poking its head in and out, more to imbue an exotic feel than assert itself. It makes me think of those dry coconut flakes you sprinkle on cookies. There are some musks, a faint smokiness, and woods in the base to offer a solid backbone for the composition and gently pull it out from its “syrupy” trajectory. It is a thoroughly enjoyable perfume from start to finish. From the hot blast of rum in the opening to the smoky woods in the dry-down.
To recapitulate, this is, in my opinion, a boozy perfume first, focusing on rum, and a vanilla perfume second. To my nose, the major players are the rum, dried fruits, vanilla, and tobacco, in that order. The remainder of the notes and accords are not as important to discuss in detail. I feel it is quite a unique take on vanilla, and definitely different from other Corticchiato scents. However, while wearing it, I was reminded of two other perfumes: Ambre Narguile from Hermes and Enigma Pour Homme Parfum from Roja Dove. They don’t smell alike, but they give off a similar vibe - boozy, spicy, warm with vanilla-like undertones.
Will I be lining up for it once it gets officially released? As of now, I think not. I enjoy it very much, but it’s not a type of fragrance that I crave and reach for often, and I already have Ambre Narguile stocked for life. However, I adore the rum aspect of this perfume and how it blends with the dried fruits and the vanilla. It is quite addictive. There are a few rum-centered perfumes that captivated me, and out of them, I think this one has made the best impression. I will continue to enjoy my decant and see where it leads me. If there’s anything that might persuade me, it's the boozy aspect. Generally, Corticchiato’s perfumes fall into two categories: orientals and agrestics. I own all his bucolic tributes, and while I love his orientals, I don’t own any of them currently(although I used to own several). But I would rank Le Baume Vanille among his best orientals.
Given that it was able to thrill even a non-vanilla lover like myself, I am certain that it will be well-received by the community. I just want to re-emphasize that this is more of a boozy fragrance than a vanilla-gourmand. And now, I need to get myself a trip to Madagascar and experience that “unforgettable beverage.” Unforgettable enough to convince Marc-Antoine that if you can’t drink it on a daily basis, you can at least wear it.
IG:@memory.of.scents
When I heard the news that Marc-Antoine was doing a Vanilla perfume, I had my doubts, to put it lightly. Then, I recalled Ruade and how glorious that one turned out to be, and decided to put my trust in one of the very few noses that never failed to impress me. This man is one of the most consistent perfumers out there, and that’s why I’m following him closely.
Now, I am not a vanilla lover, and I don’t like sweet/gourmand perfumes. However, if they are handled well, I can be swayed. For reference, perfumes such as Roucel’s Musc Ravageur, Jinkoh’s Vanilla Paradise, Vaan from NOT Perfumes, Guerlain’s Spiritueuse Double Vanille, Mona’s Vanille, and Lutens’ Un Bois Vanille are a few that I own or appreciate. And now, I am adding this upcoming Parfum D’Empire creation to that list. Yes, it is worth ranking among them. However, this one brings something different to the game, a heavy emphasis on Rum. Hence, be prepared for a proper “boozy experience.”
When I received the decant, I decided to run tests on paper strips and skin without reading the blurb. A complete blind test. I was not expecting the rum and the dried fruits to play such a significant role in the composition. Then I started picking up the tobacco, the spices, the woods, and hints of coconut(very soft). Obviously, the vanilla is omnipresent, and they used a tincture, a CO2 extract, and the absolute. Therefore, you get a myriad facets. Nothing like the cheap vanillin-saturated compositions that swamp the market, most often infused with a generous sickly-sweet amount of ethyl maltol. The dry fruit accord is very pronounced for me, although not listed, and I suspect it might be a “phantom note” as a result of the materials used; both the vanilla and the tobacco can give off such facets. The texture of the fragrance is very “syrupy,” like a vanilla-flavored beverage. On paper, it shifted from syrupy to leafy-dry, and then back, but on my skin, it never gets dry and stays slimy throughout. The sweetness has become manageable now after wearing it five times, although during the first tests, I was certain it was too sweet for me. Perhaps I got used to it. All I know is that it doesn’t bother me now. Based on the name, I was expecting a very balmy experience, not such a treacly one. Afterward, I read the pamphlet that describes the composition and the inspiration behind the scent, and it started to make sense. Apparently, Marc-Antoine decided to capture in this perfume an “unforgettable beverage” he had the pleasure of enjoying during his trips to Madagascar. A beverage made from rum infused with vanilla pods, among others. While I didn’t have the luck of tasting such an indigenous delicacy, I think he did manage to evoke that experience through this perfume. As mentioned, it feels like a rum specialty drink infused with vanilla, perhaps served with some dried fruits and cigars on the side. The tobacco is present but not too overt. I believe it plays a supporting role rather than trying to establish itself, and helps to create the dried fruit accord. From the spices, I get lots of clove, more than cinnamon, and I don’t pick up the cocoa at all. The coconut is hardly noticeable, poking its head in and out, more to imbue an exotic feel than assert itself. It makes me think of those dry coconut flakes you sprinkle on cookies. There are some musks, a faint smokiness, and woods in the base to offer a solid backbone for the composition and gently pull it out from its “syrupy” trajectory. It is a thoroughly enjoyable perfume from start to finish. From the hot blast of rum in the opening to the smoky woods in the dry-down.
To recapitulate, this is, in my opinion, a boozy perfume first, focusing on rum, and a vanilla perfume second. To my nose, the major players are the rum, dried fruits, vanilla, and tobacco, in that order. The remainder of the notes and accords are not as important to discuss in detail. I feel it is quite a unique take on vanilla, and definitely different from other Corticchiato scents. However, while wearing it, I was reminded of two other perfumes: Ambre Narguile from Hermes and Enigma Pour Homme Parfum from Roja Dove. They don’t smell alike, but they give off a similar vibe - boozy, spicy, warm with vanilla-like undertones.
Will I be lining up for it once it gets officially released? As of now, I think not. I enjoy it very much, but it’s not a type of fragrance that I crave and reach for often, and I already have Ambre Narguile stocked for life. However, I adore the rum aspect of this perfume and how it blends with the dried fruits and the vanilla. It is quite addictive. There are a few rum-centered perfumes that captivated me, and out of them, I think this one has made the best impression. I will continue to enjoy my decant and see where it leads me. If there’s anything that might persuade me, it's the boozy aspect. Generally, Corticchiato’s perfumes fall into two categories: orientals and agrestics. I own all his bucolic tributes, and while I love his orientals, I don’t own any of them currently(although I used to own several). But I would rank Le Baume Vanille among his best orientals.
Given that it was able to thrill even a non-vanilla lover like myself, I am certain that it will be well-received by the community. I just want to re-emphasize that this is more of a boozy fragrance than a vanilla-gourmand. And now, I need to get myself a trip to Madagascar and experience that “unforgettable beverage.” Unforgettable enough to convince Marc-Antoine that if you can’t drink it on a daily basis, you can at least wear it.
IG:@memory.of.scents
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