10/24/2019
Duftsucht
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Duftsucht
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Despicable cleanliness
After a long wait, the fragrances of Parfum d'Empire are finally available again - and the day before yesterday I finally got my parcel from the post office. The first surprise when you open it. "Le Cri de la Lumiere" is now just "Le Cri", no more with light, no more with lights. Now I ask myself all the time if the scent has changed too. Unfortunately, I don't have the opportunity to do this in a direct comparison, as the remaining bottle that I was given has been empty for a long time.
While in my memory the scent used to start with a proper drum roll, it is now more delicate and reserved and less impetuous. If I read through the comments here, I think that might even accommodate some perfumos and perfumas. As much more perceptible, I also feel a woody base at the beginning, which gives the shining rose a slight damper. After the first minutes, however, "Le Cri" as a composition is exactly the way I remember it - perhaps a little less room-filling overall, but that's very difficult to assess. And also Ambrette, with whom I sometimes stand on my feet in scents, is suddenly softer. I would find it super interesting if any of you had a chance to make a proper comparison!
Just for the sake of completeness: For me, a certain variance in fragrances is not a problem: Especially small manufactories that work with natural products simply have to admit differences between batches! After all, a natural product is always somewhat variable from the outset - and when such beautiful, unadapted fragrances are created, as in the case of Parfum d'Empire, then it is only my curiosity as to whether others feel the same way that makes me ask - and by no means a criticism of the fragrance!
But now to "Le Cri" itself: If cleanliness can be erotic, then here! It has a bit of the feel of Victorian young girls who, although they had to cover their ankles modestly with long skirts, (supposedly) moistened their tops with water to awaken the imagination of young men who met them only under the austere eyes of a chaperon. This is probably the final proof that everything has been there before - even wet T-shirt contests!
For me, Le Cri does just that: superficially, it warbles "I am a clean rose iris air that dances around carefree and unsuspectingly". But beneath the surface it is the voice and lasciviousness of Marlene Dietrich that hums the eternal song of expectation and seduction. So far I've always had difficulty understanding the claim that Ambrette is an aphrodisiac, but this fragrance has made it.
"Le Cri" is perfectly balanced in itself: Rose, Iris, Ambrette are, if you concentrate on the respective fragrance, clearly parallel to smell and this gives the impression superficially that it is a simple fragrance. The rose is not sour, not too spicy, not too heavy - the comparison with yellow tea roses is also perfect for me. The iris is powdery, but also juicy-fleshy and not gentle-volatile, so I would rather ascribe the color blue to it. I had always connoted Ambrette with (too) white, here it is strangely for me both brightly bright, but also velvety dark red. I notice that I am standing in line with my description - the scent eludes my description because it unites too many moods for me. It is much more in my nose than the buzzer of its individual parts - and it is difficult for me to remember similar feelings towards a scent in my (admittedly limited) world of scents.
All I want to say in conclusion is a deep sigh of relief and gratitude that Parfum d'Empire has not disappeared, which I feared!
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