Oud
Hay absolute
Narcissus09/07/2024
DrB1414
240 Reviews
DrB1414
Very helpful Review
10
The Master at Work
Ruade from Parfum D'Empire.
First, I need to point out how many seem to have misunderstood what Corticchiato tried to achieve here. It looks like people expected this to be an Oud perfume. I heard someone saying: "He came a bit late to the Oud game." This is not an Oud-centered perfume. Yes, the oud is there, and no, it is not the usual accord or blue cheese fermented blast one will find in most commercial perfumes. The oud is cleverly used to create the theme of the perfume, not to define it. What Corticchitao wanted to do here is an agrestic perfume with a powerful nod to the equine theme. He pondered on the materials that would work best, and oud seemed an obvious choice, next to a few others like hay and narcissus. If you expect this to be an Oud perfume, you'll be disappointed. Another important caveat is to test this perfume on the skin. It should not be wasted on paper. I ran my first several tests on strips, and it didn't feel very dynamic. Once I applied it to my skin and wore it, it blossomed. Even now, I get slightly different facets each time as my body heats up or the temperature fluctuates. It is a robust composition yet highly multifaceted due to the nature of the ingredients.
What does it smell like? Imagine a warm summer day in the countryside, approaching Dusk, a worn and rugged leather saddle still imbued with the sweat of the animal and the rider after a full day of galloping in the fields, nesting in the warm hay and some drying narcissus flowers. The barn is warm. The heat makes the scent of dry wood rise and permeate the atmosphere.
That is Ruade in a few words and a little game of imagination. It is an agrestic through-and-through with a vivid equine character. Upon the first spray, I always get a dry and dusty smell. An amalgam of hay, pollen-ladened and dusty narcissus, a tannic, worn leather, and dry wood. It is a dry and devoid of sweetness perfume. In this regard, it reminds me of Oeilleres but drier. There is an almost boozy quality from the hay absolute. The dustiness stays for a good while, and once it dissipates and the perfume transitions to the heart, the Oud becomes more assertive. Together with the narcissus and perhaps labdanum, work to create the imagery of a worn leather saddle infused with the beastly aroma of the heated body of the stallion. A musky, sweaty-salty creaminess creeps in, but at this stage, what dominates is the leather accord. Dry, worn leather.
There is a smokiness coming from the Oud, making me think of a heavy smoker's leather jacket. The more the perfume dries down, the more the focus shifts from the smoky leather toward the creamy and sweaty musk accord that evokes the animal's body. This later part lasts for a very long time and smells incredibly alluring. As mentioned, I never get the same wearing experience with Ruade. Sometimes, the agrestic character feels more prominent. In others, the emphasis shifts to the smoky leather theme while the dry-down is always salty and saturated with resinous-musky goodness. I still discover new facets with Ruade and I'm yet to wear it in colder temperatures which I sense might bring out more of the woody and smoky facets.
I tested this perfume many times before committing to a bottle and I cannot stress the importance of not just sampling it on the skin but wearing it. Again, do not expect an Oud perfume. This composition has Corticchiato's signature all over it and will find real appreciation among those who love and understand Agrestic perfumes. Yet, it goes beyond that theme. It is an Oriental, a Leather, and one of the best Equestrian compositions on the market. I LOVE all these genres, hence, for me, Ruade is one of the best perfumes of the last year, next to Rauque, and easily my best perfume purchase this year.
With Ruade, Marc Antoine proves once more that he is the absolute master of Agrestic compositions, adding another bucolic masterwork to his portfolio.
IG:@memory.of.scents
First, I need to point out how many seem to have misunderstood what Corticchiato tried to achieve here. It looks like people expected this to be an Oud perfume. I heard someone saying: "He came a bit late to the Oud game." This is not an Oud-centered perfume. Yes, the oud is there, and no, it is not the usual accord or blue cheese fermented blast one will find in most commercial perfumes. The oud is cleverly used to create the theme of the perfume, not to define it. What Corticchitao wanted to do here is an agrestic perfume with a powerful nod to the equine theme. He pondered on the materials that would work best, and oud seemed an obvious choice, next to a few others like hay and narcissus. If you expect this to be an Oud perfume, you'll be disappointed. Another important caveat is to test this perfume on the skin. It should not be wasted on paper. I ran my first several tests on strips, and it didn't feel very dynamic. Once I applied it to my skin and wore it, it blossomed. Even now, I get slightly different facets each time as my body heats up or the temperature fluctuates. It is a robust composition yet highly multifaceted due to the nature of the ingredients.
What does it smell like? Imagine a warm summer day in the countryside, approaching Dusk, a worn and rugged leather saddle still imbued with the sweat of the animal and the rider after a full day of galloping in the fields, nesting in the warm hay and some drying narcissus flowers. The barn is warm. The heat makes the scent of dry wood rise and permeate the atmosphere.
That is Ruade in a few words and a little game of imagination. It is an agrestic through-and-through with a vivid equine character. Upon the first spray, I always get a dry and dusty smell. An amalgam of hay, pollen-ladened and dusty narcissus, a tannic, worn leather, and dry wood. It is a dry and devoid of sweetness perfume. In this regard, it reminds me of Oeilleres but drier. There is an almost boozy quality from the hay absolute. The dustiness stays for a good while, and once it dissipates and the perfume transitions to the heart, the Oud becomes more assertive. Together with the narcissus and perhaps labdanum, work to create the imagery of a worn leather saddle infused with the beastly aroma of the heated body of the stallion. A musky, sweaty-salty creaminess creeps in, but at this stage, what dominates is the leather accord. Dry, worn leather.
There is a smokiness coming from the Oud, making me think of a heavy smoker's leather jacket. The more the perfume dries down, the more the focus shifts from the smoky leather toward the creamy and sweaty musk accord that evokes the animal's body. This later part lasts for a very long time and smells incredibly alluring. As mentioned, I never get the same wearing experience with Ruade. Sometimes, the agrestic character feels more prominent. In others, the emphasis shifts to the smoky leather theme while the dry-down is always salty and saturated with resinous-musky goodness. I still discover new facets with Ruade and I'm yet to wear it in colder temperatures which I sense might bring out more of the woody and smoky facets.
I tested this perfume many times before committing to a bottle and I cannot stress the importance of not just sampling it on the skin but wearing it. Again, do not expect an Oud perfume. This composition has Corticchiato's signature all over it and will find real appreciation among those who love and understand Agrestic perfumes. Yet, it goes beyond that theme. It is an Oriental, a Leather, and one of the best Equestrian compositions on the market. I LOVE all these genres, hence, for me, Ruade is one of the best perfumes of the last year, next to Rauque, and easily my best perfume purchase this year.
With Ruade, Marc Antoine proves once more that he is the absolute master of Agrestic compositions, adding another bucolic masterwork to his portfolio.
IG:@memory.of.scents
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