Six years after the brilliant venture of
Mousse Illuminée, Manuel Cross offers a new chapter in the mossy saga.
This year, the basic tenor of "Fuck you, ban me" is shouted through the flower.
Not light fare and certainly not quiet. Nevertheless, a successful, bizarre reappraisal of the past, which provides the best foundations for what is to come.
Dear Cenno, I am in your debt and hope to be able to give your fragrance sample a proper dressing down here.
Hiss!
Hold on tight, there's no spilling the beans here, no, we're going all out with moss right from the start!
Orange blossom amidst myrrh as a greeting resembles the lightning storm of careerist paparazzi in front of the Limelight in New York in the mid-1980s.
Uncomfortable tension between quite tart resin and somewhat sour white blossom. The orange blossom has aseptic tones.
Acid smiles, beautiful partygoers among urban decay.
Vivien Vee croons her poppy Eve of Destruction.
It's good to be on the fun side of things.
Suddenly, a bubblegum bubble of hedonistic decadence is blown perfectly arrogantly into the camera with the nard, just so that you can still see the tip of the nose.
And what a high quality of biblical nard oil!
It soothes warm, fruity and spicy, creating an epochal coolness.
The incidence of light respects the contours, shoulder shrug, the forehead hair covers the right eye.
Ephemeral beauty.
Something minty, cinnamony plays with the temperature poles.
The night is ours!
The tart, herbaceous Artemisia slowly pushes past the initial flowers.
In combination with the unbridled moss and a warm pinch of nutmeg, it evokes the accord that has characterized distinctive men's fragrances for decades.
Here, however, the blossoms play around the soapy herbaceousness and create neon-colored contours in the darkness of the dance floor.
Vicious Pink uses her school French for the housey Cccan't You See.
This demanding and acidic freshness makes the oakmoss more creaky, even mentholated.
Quite a lot of time will pass before the second accord presents its opulent elegance.
A leathery rose appears in the incense mist.
But the mossy frame does not tolerate solos, it has to blend in.
Fascinating, the ease with which labdanum and rose glide smokily, almost silently sublime.
Like those urban gladiators fighting for a view of Central Park from the living room.
Quiet voices, feared weapons.
Hours later, the scent says goodbye with a contrasting moss, it has been lovingly maltreated by flowers.
But it still has a little trick up its sleeve.
The labdanum plays shunter, has the rose driven home and prepares the bedchamber for the clary sage.
A mossy, herbaceous kiss whispers beauty in the ear and sends physical excitement down the spine.
Slightly animalistic, the sheets demand passionate disorder until dawn.
What a night!
My initial rating of the fragrance is very high, could even get better over time.
But a small and important warning, the scent of oakmoss is not to everyone's taste, so I strongly advise testing the fragrance before buying.
What fascinates me most are the quotes from a rather turbulent and contrasting time.
The leathery rose accord in particular reminds me of
Perry Ellis for Men (1985) Cologne.
And the way I see it, Manuel Cross probably had something similar in mind when he created the fragrance.
Once again a magnificent success, dear Manuel.
Your perseverance and consistency are paying off.
Keep up the good work!