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Flora & Fauna 2020

8.4 / 10 91 Ratings
A popular perfume by Rogue for women and men, released in 2020. The scent is chypreartig-fruity. The longevity is above-average. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Chypre
Fruity
Animal
Floral
Leathery

Fragrance Notes

CivetCivet BergamotBergamot Dried apricotDried apricot LeatherLeather OakmossOakmoss PatchouliPatchouli AmberAmber LabdanumLabdanum

Perfumer & Creative Guidance

Ratings
Scent
8.491 Ratings
Longevity
8.174 Ratings
Sillage
7.574 Ratings
Bottle
7.867 Ratings
Value for money
7.834 Ratings
Submitted by TheDrake, last update on 10/03/2025.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to
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Shangri La (2014)
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Diaghilev Parfum
Mitsouko (Eau de Toilette) by Guerlain
Mitsouko Eau de Toilette
Beloved Woman by Amouage
Beloved Woman
Chypre Palatin by Parfums MDCI
Chypre Palatin

Reviews

2 in-depth fragrance descriptions
Drseid

828 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
2  
A Wink to the Past, Blazing a Trail of Its Own...
Flora & Fauna opens with a tangy apricot and bergamot fruit tandem with just a touch of underlying supporting green oakmoss before gradually transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the bergamot recedes, but the oakmoss enhanced apricot fruit remains, adding moderately dulled rose and slightly powdery orris to the mix, with just slightly sweet, leathery, ambery labdanum, and a hint of animalic civet support. During the late dry-down, the fruity floral aspects recede though never completely vacate, leaving the leathery, ambery labdanum from the base to take on the starring role, with the slightly animalic civet also remaining, bolstering the labdanum's leathery facet further with a touch of earthy patchouli and the remaining oakmoss support to round things off through the finish. Projection is good and longevity excellent at around 12 hours on skin.

I tend to shy away from all-natural compositions, as usually the perfume lacks depth, performance metrics or most commonly both. It was with that pessimistic outlook that I tried Flora & Fauna, the first all-natural release from the extremely gifted perfumer Manuel Cross. Now having worn the composition on skin a few times, I can safely say both composition quality and performance are *very* much intact. At its core, Flora & Fauna has old school classically structured floral-leather chypre written all over it, with its fruity apricot and bergamot open with oakmoss never the star but detectable throughout, and its sublime leathery labdanum led dry-down. Some have compared it to classic Guerlain masterpiece compositions like Mitsouko and L'Here Bleue, but while I can see where they are coming from, I find Flora & Fauna to be distinctive enough that it stands on its own, while staying reverent to those past greats. The fact that Mr. Cross could accomplish all this without using any synthetics to at least bolster performance is nothing short of a marvel. The bottom line is the $150 per 30ml bottle Flora & Fauna owes some of its classic structure to past greats, but the "excellent" to "near-masterpiece" 4 to 4.5 stars out of 5 rated perfume blazes new distinctive trails of its own to impress anew, earning it a strong recommendation to any lover of classically structured floral-leather chypres (all-natural or not).
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Profumo

288 Reviews
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Profumo
Profumo
Top Review 48  
Without Pompous Pretentiousness
That Manuel Cross knows how to create a Chypre, especially in the traditional style, he has sufficiently proven with ‘Chypre Siam’, ‘Tabac Vert’, ‘40 Rogue’, and ‘Tuberose & Moss’. Anyone who sniffs these creations may completely forget that just a few years ago there were fierce debates about the pros and cons of banning oak and tree moss. A whiff of ‘Chypre Siam’, and it’s as if nothing ever happened.
Well, he doesn’t care about the restrictions of an IFRA in faraway America. Let the pitiful colleagues on the old continent struggle to breathe new life into the good old, unfortunately butchered Aunt Chypre - at his home, she is still very much alive.

Now then, ‘Flora & Fauna’.

I confess I ordered this scent blindly, but what could go wrong: a new Chypre fragrance from Mr. Cross, additionally advertised by the US online retailer Luckyscent as “...masterpiece of all-natural perfumery” - nothing could possibly go wrong.

And it didn’t.

‘Flora & Fauna’ is exactly what I hoped for, and yes, I also expected a bit: a classic Chypre of the finest kind! The scent even surpasses the aforementioned predecessors - which were already convincing representatives of this genre. With them, Manuel Cross illuminated a bit of the corners of the Chypre cosmos: sometimes the green-spicy corner, sometimes the powdery-animalic, or the Asian-floral. ‘Flora & Fauna’, however, rests in itself, occupies the middle of the room, or in other words: it is likely meant to be read as the quintessence of his struggle for a Chypre fragrance of old style, one that gently opens up to modernity and primarily reveals its own signature.

When measuring, of course, one cannot overlook two heroes of the past: Coty’s epochal ‘Chypre’, and Jacques Guerlain’s response to it, the equally epochal ‘Mitsouko’.
‘Chypre Siam’ can be viewed in many ways as Manuel Cross’s attempt to reinterpret François Coty’s scent. ‘Flora & Fauna’, on the other hand, could be understood as an appeal to ‘Mitsouko’. For the brilliant twist of Jacques Guerlain was to juxtapose the bitter-mossy background noise of the Chypre construct with a ripe fruit and its sweet-bitter, even leathery nuances: the peach.
Manuel Cross instead chooses the apricot, or as a variant: a supposedly dried apricot.
And you can smell it right at the beginning of the scent development, oh yes! It practically jumps out at you, holding the bitter-peel, citrus-fresh bergamot right under its arm. This herb-sweet fruit duo dances on the balsamic, softly ambered heart, which in turn is embraced by a strong base marked by labdanum and oak moss.

Of course, the juicy apricot accord is a clear nod towards ‘Mitsouko’, only that ‘Flora & Fauna’ comes across as less madam-like, rather more graceful, light-footed.
This may be due to the absence of a floral bouquet. ‘Mitsouko’ holds an entire bouquet in its arms: rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, even lilac. The Rogue scent: nada. No flower in sight, at least none that would push itself to the forefront. Manuel Cross has somewhat disarmed, or better: streamlined. And lo and behold: the stripped-down concept works.

However, I do wonder a bit about the naming: ‘Flora’, which flora? Well, mosses, lichens, and resins also count as flora. But please, which ‘fauna’?
Here I do become a little skeptical.
Manuel Cross promotes this scent by claiming it is ‘all-natural’. Seriously? Even the civet, which is supposedly in there, and which one can only faintly sense?
Real, natural civet?
I hope not.
Because as good as ‘Flora & Fauna’ smells, the use of real civet would somewhat disqualify this scent. A slight guilty conscience is already gnawing at me for having hastily pressed the purchase button in my excitement over the Rogue Chypre...
Well, I will find out, and until then hope that the ‘all-natural’ doesn’t really refer to ‘all’.

Aside from the only subtly used civet, the leathery nuances of the ‘fauna’ must of course also be accounted for. But please do not think of genuine leather Chypres like ‘Bandit’ or ‘Cabochard’ in this case. The leathery touch here is more of a team player than a protagonist, more soft, light leather than rough and dark.
Here, ‘Flora & Fauna’ reminds me a bit of ‘Diorling’, whose leathery facets smell similarly finely smoothed and soft, while the base does not develop the warmth of the Rogue scent. However, another newer Chypre fragrance, Annette Neuffer’s ‘Chyprette’ - also ‘all-natural’ - does develop that warmth. Perhaps Manuel Cross was inspired by this, as it is striking that barely a year after the release of the Neuffer fragrance, Manuel Cross comes around the corner with his. While ‘Chyprette’ is of course purely natural, I am a bit surprised by the explicit emphasis on naturalness in ‘Flora & Fauna’, as Manuel Cross has so far been known for his resistance to bureaucratic regulations, but less for a tendency towards natural perfumes.

The goal of his efforts was evidently to prove to himself and all skeptics that a Chypre fragrance based purely on natural ingredients, without the use of synthetic substitutes, is achievable.

He has succeeded.

It is also understandable that this comes at a price. As Annette Neuffer already explains on her website, natural extracts cost many times more than their synthetic substitutes - the differences are truly enormous!
So it should not be surprising that for a bottle of ‘Flora & Fauna’ one has to pay a bit more than for other Rogue fragrances, which themselves already have a high proportion of natural ingredients.
As a small compensation for the extra cost, one is rewarded not only with a qualitatively extremely high-quality scent but also with a pretty little foldable wooden box that wonderfully matches the content: in a pleasantly fine and noble way, without any hint of pompous pretentiousness.

Bravo!
17 Comments

Statements

36 short views on the fragrance
3
Flora & Fauna opens with apricot, rose and a hint of civet, dries down to oakmoss, patchouli and leather. Fruity Chypre with a classic edge.
0 Comments
1
Wonderful cypre. Leathery, moss, fruit! Fantastic! 9/10. 100 % unisex
0 Comments
1
excellent quality. fruity base composition. this brings the fragrance to a high level. if you love chypre, can't do without it.
0 Comments
1
Initially pungent and soapy citric-fruity, this warm and creamy, yet gently leathery, fruity Chypre, settles to a resinous earthy-woody base
0 Comments
1
Deep peachy moss opening. Touches of leather, civet, and patchouli give a dank sort of depth. Very similar drydown to Chypre-Siam.
0 Comments
34
31
A lovely Chypre with fruit, resins, moss, and just the right dose of cat. Classic, fabulous, and works even without flowers.
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31 Comments
35
32
Citrus muddle in
apricot melt
Green tingling
in resin cream
A bed of
patchouli moss
Amber comfort...
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32 Comments
28
21
Sweet apricot
devoured by an earthy and leathery
oak moss sneaking cat
Beautiful sweet scent with a hint of animalic.
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21 Comments
26
19
Old farts, unite and buy the scents from Rogue, which smell of old tradition, real beast, and fresh lemon & moss but with less plastic.
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19 Comments
4 years ago
26
17
Rogue brings true classics back to life. A dark green chypre with a hint of soapiness and a touch of animalic. Very vintage.
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17 Comments
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