This perfume is like NYC Autumn closed in a bottle. At least that’s what it represents to me when the spray gets carried away on those cold crisp autumn days when strolling through Manhattan on business trips. I bought the Velvet Orchid after getting to know the “Black Orchid (Eau de Parfum) | Tom Ford”. If the latter begins in powder but envelops in a sweet, sensual and delicate floral note, Velvet orchid opens with spicy floral notes and develops into a slightly musky powdery scent. Velvet Orchid is simply divine. It’s one of those experiences you love at first sight, and now I never want to part. The fragrance was officially born as feminine, but over time it became a transversal emblem of charm for men as well.
Velvet Orchid is a flower-centric scent that keeps the instantly recognizable elements of Black Orchid. The similarity is immediately evident. You can smell that mysterious sweet and almost gourmand atmosphere of Black Orchid. Still, Velvet Orchid achieves a similar atmosphere without being so sweet or gourmand and with a composition of peculiar notes. There is a fresh and lush facet of white petals with animalic notes and lacquer warmth. Velvet Orchid opens up in what could be a nauseating sugary bouquet; once sprayed, it remains sweet, the flower that gives it its name is front and centre, remaining so for its entire duration. Immediately, I get a soapy, light, cheerful floral accord, rich in fresh jasmine and orange blossom. It is very intense and aromatic, so sharp that the fragrance stuns me for a moment. There is just a hint of tame honey and a hint of woody elements that rise from the base. The most special notes are the blend of honey-coated and jasmine-infused bergamot and mandarin peels, which blend with an extraordinarily potent sweetly alcoholic rum aroma rich in dried fruit and undertones of vanilla. It seems to smell like a sweet and well-made liqueur. I also get a balsamic base note. But the honey-sprinkled top gives way to a shocking booziness that almost rivals the orchid for dominance for the rest. Overall, a rather original combination, especially when touches of dark green jasmine appear in the background.
When the explosion of spicy and mellifluous notes softens, talc and sugary heliotrope appear. Other elements silently hide in the shadows. The heart witnesses the advance of the floral. It is a riot of buttery flowers, and the rum makes a strong comeback and brings with it a touch of suede. A dewy and lemon magnolia plays with the sweet orchid, while the impression of the rose adds a delicate touch. At this stage, it has a more feminine cut, a creamy and velvety texture, even if, as a man, I wear it without fear or regret. Also, I don’t have that particular blue cheese aroma that lingers in the heart of Black Orchid for long.
Rum is the surprise star here, present at first in a way that gives Velvet Orchid an almost medicinal quality but ultimately blends with myrrh’s attempts at resinousness and sandalwood woodiness. It develops into something more sensual when the orchid combines with some sweet vanilla and myrrh to add smoke to a pot of fresh honey near a field of flowers. As it dries, the orchid becomes more prominent, setting aside the rum and orange blossom and giving way to an absolute sensuality created by Peruvian balm, myrrh and a hint of labdanum. Slowly, very slowly, the sandalwood emerges, takes over and beautifully blurs the central elements of flowers and suede. The balsamic nuance I got in the opening is shimmering, roughening the fragrance a little while setting the stage for a perfect vanilla note that adds a decadent sweetness. I’m not getting a gourmand vanilla here, but a tremendous milky nuance well blended with oriental floral notes. I feel woods and a delicate hint of myrrh. But the star of the show is the splendid note of suede, perceptible from top to bottom, which gives Velvet Orchid its velvety feel. A suede strip appears as a silky softness as if milky cocoa powder smudges it slightly. I suspect it is because of the heliotrope interacting with one of the other elements, creating this chocolaty effect.
There is mystery and darkness, through the satin and purple velvet curtains. It is a perfect perfume for late autumn and winter. I can see it being worn throughout the day and night in the cold months. It’s a good choice for men who generally love perfumes, the soft scents of sandalwood, who do not disdain a floral touch in the composition. It’s sweet, not greedy, but you have to love sweet oriental scents to appreciate it. Overall performance is above average, no doubt about it. What can I say? It is a sensational discovery to own even if you already have the Black Orchid as they look alike, but they are two scents in their own right. It’s a generous, creamy, and classy floral scent without being overly sweet or intoxicating, but it retains enough heart to leave a good and lasting impression that extends beyond the skin scent.
I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since March 2022.
-Elysium