FEUILLETON VS. POLITICS
When I wrote my last comment three weeks ago, I never thought it would be my last comment. Because there are no more comments here now. Instead, there are reviews. I don't quite understand the reasoning behind this change of terminology after about 10 years of comments on Parfumo. After all, when subscribers suddenly became followers a few years ago, I missed the somewhat bourgeois-sounding term that made one think of theater subscriptions. Now, the feuilleton strikes back! Instead of the (politically sounding) comment, we now have the review (from the culture section). Why not?
PARIS VS. VIENNA
We are talking about one of my favorite fragrance brands here. I own four perfumes, two rather strong ones (Singular Oud and Sensual Blend) and two lighter ones (Lost Paradise and In Between); I am at least circling around a fifth scent (Dark Vanilla).
Urban Scents is a family business. Marie Le Fèbvre from Paris worked as a perfumer, while Alexander Urban from Vienna was a manager for the big cosmetics companies in the world; they quit, got married, and founded Urban Scents. The business and residence of the extremely likeable couple became, of course, Berlin.
What I love about the brand is the unmistakable signature of the master, whose creations are always light and full of life and cheerfulness; one might almost say humor. They remain equally distant from strained intellectualism and shrill effects, captivating with a fabulously playful richness of facets. They strike the perfect balance between winking surprises and small dissonances on one hand, and harmony and excellent wearability on the other.
In addition, there is, among other things, an exceedingly pleasantly restrained emission policy - a kind of Slow Perfuming - wonderfully high-quality bottles, successful names, and a beautifully presented overall package.
TEGEL VS. TEMPELHOF
In addition to their love for fragrances (and, as one can assume, for each other), the urban couple also shares a passion for flying, which is why the company logo is a propeller. They also seem to have an affection for Berlin; otherwise, they probably wouldn't have come here. Nevertheless, it is anything but a given that they dedicated this scent to the new Berlin airport - BER.
I find that highly likeable (because I like the new airport), but from a marketing perspective, it is certainly as promising as naming a fragrance after Wirecard or VW Diesel. The airport, which saw its opening delayed by about 10 years, primarily because the planners apparently assumed that smoke sinks rather than rises (for aesthetic reasons, they didn't want chimneys and designed the smoke extraction system so that in the event of a fire, the smoke is sucked down - brilliant idea!), does not exactly have a good image.
Irony: After years of complaining that the construction delay lasted so long that the airport would be completely undersized upon opening, it is now only 10% utilized due to the pandemic.
NATURE VS. LABOR
Urban Scents stands for niche in the very best sense, for handcrafted work in the studio, for art and craftsmanship, but not necessarily for organic, fair trade, and vegan. The master also confidently uses synthetic fragrance materials when needed. Nevertheless, BER Cavok is likely the most synthetic Urban there is. Not entirely far-fetched in concept: an air hub is not a cuddle zoo.
The scent, which is intensely shifting but completely linear overall (constant cruising altitude!), smells as the listed notes suggest. After merely reading the notes, I had no scent idea in my nose. However, when smelling the fragrance live, the descriptions become entirely plausible.
BER Cavok impresses primarily with truly beautiful, strong mineral notes (a fragrance nuance that I love but find very rare; I had to think of unknown favorites of mine like Diplomat Classic by Astrid and the Laguna by Harry Lehmann, which ultimately goes in a completely different direction due to the citrus). Perhaps they are meant to represent the sandy soil on which the airport is built.
In addition, there is a hefty dose of Calone, which is responsible for a slightly distorted, vaguely spiced aquatic note; an ethereal ozonic quality, which reminds me of Mirage (not the Dassault fighter jet, but the fragrance by Harry Lehmann), and finally, a good shot of musks. Although the fragrance is called CAVOK, meaning "visibility conditions okay," the sky over Berlin is not crystal clear: fine veils everywhere.
A stroke of genius is then to counter this concentrated load of chemistry with a truly natural counterpoint, the scent of Berlin's main and state tree, the linden (blossom). It presents itself here in a non-sweet, almost tart variety.
The fragrance, like all artworks by Marie Le Lèbvre, is not loud, but it is still well audible-and, no wonder with so much synthetics, even very decent in longevity.
AFFECTION VS. SKEPTICISM
About two years ago, I first tested this fragrance shortly after its release in the beautiful store on Bleibtreustraße and was a bit skeptical. A few days ago, I received a sample: the skepticism initially remained.
Despite all my enthusiasm for the brand, the artist, the city, and the airport, this will (and will) certainly not become my favorite Urban; I simply don’t have much affinity for modernity in fragrances (although I recently gifted my wife, following a recommendation from the unfortunately currently silent Fittleworth, Inception by Zarkoperfume, which I now also like very much).
On the other hand, I seem to be getting closer to BER Cavok, which I have been wearing almost all day; the fragrance is increasingly opening up to me. I have gone from 7.0 to 7.5 and am now at 8.0. Since this was also the spontaneous rating of my co-pilot, I land here precisely and do not entertain the possibility of further ascents.
Even if it doesn't become my favorite fragrance, I am very pleased that BER Cavok is captivating others here (even more): The fine comment by Favea is expressly recommended for further reading.
Ozonic notes
Musk
Mineral notes
Calone
Linden blossom
Yatagan
Duftgroupie
Ergoproxy
Heikeso
SiameseDream
CharlAmbre
Pluto
Parma
FeliciaMa
Julia142
