Coumarin
Benzyl salicylate
Green apple
Geranium
Crystallised moss
Lavender
Patchouli
FvSpee
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FvSpee
Very helpful Review
14
No Eye Will Remain Dry!
When I stumbled into the Berlin "Urban Scents" store on Bleibtreustraße today quite by chance, it happened at just the right moment. The - as I want to preface: gifted - perfumer Marie Le Febvre has just launched five new olfactory works to scent and market, following the eight fragrances of the somewhat "classic" line of the house just two weeks ago. So I had the opportunity to test two of these five brand-new scents (to be precise, I had the chance to test all of them, but I took it slow at first), which is why I can also order a still virgin plot here at Parfumo (no statements, no comments, not even a rating so far).
The new "Urban Scents" edition is called "Vintage Spirit" and is dedicated to a situation, person, or idea that also relates to a decade. Each of the five fragrances features a partially colored drawing by the French photographer and illustrator Francois Cadière; in the Berlin store, the respective tester is placed on five pedestals with test strips, and behind it hangs the original artwork beautifully framed. The whole presentation does not come off as pretentious or snobbish, but is highly sympathetic and simply designed - there is also a mini-catalog, more like a short theater program, in which the five fragrances are briefly introduced along with their corresponding images. However, the price of the edition fragrances is quite steep: 270 euros for 100 ml of EdP.
Now, to the fragrance, which I would like to introduce today only as a precursor for larger commentators than I am, quite summarily and cursorily; after just one test, more would be presumptuous.
If you flinched at the phrase "ordering a virgin plot" in the first paragraph of this comment, you were quite right. The fragrance is called "Eden Splash," which refers to the legendary, indestructible playboy and operator of various (rather harmless) after-hours clubs (most famously: "Big Eden") in West Berlin (especially) from the 60s to the 80s, the now 88-year-old Rolf Eden. Cadière's drawing depicts a rather muscular, youthful, rough-around-the-edges type on a kind of bar stool in a stylized tropical landscape, dressed only in swim trunks and a chunky gold chain, with his legs spread in a western, even pornographic manner; in front of a backdrop of gigantic leaves, behind which a young long-haired beauty peeks out. The fragrance is described in the aforementioned brochure (in English) as follows: "Eden Splash - Explores the masculine stereotype of fougère-like freshness of the 80s, uniquely infused with a touch of Berlin. The fougère base accord contains lavender, geranium, coumarin, benzyl salicylate, patchouli, and crystalline moss. The Berlin touch is characterized by a lively (perhaps better translated as 'boisterous') green apple, Iso-E-Super, and a few little secrets."
The ingredient list here on Parfumo is evidently taken from this brochure. A closer look is warranted at the "crystalline moss" (in the original: "crystal moss"). What could that be? A play on words with "Crystal Meth"? A Google search primarily yielded "Crystal Moss" as a woman's name (of course, "Crystal" is a common first name, and "Moss" like Kate Moss, so there are likely several ladies worldwide with that name), and secondarily some hits for an obscure "Crystal-Moss-Animal," which is a small underwater creature that looks mossy. It seems there is no "crystalline moss," so it appears that here, just like with the "lively green apple" (which apparently alludes to the Garden of Eden) and the "little secrets," there is a playful wink involved.
And so I perceive this little work of art: An incredibly cheerful, upbeat fragrance that winks so vigorously that no eye remains dry, and that elegantly ironizes a gentleman's joke, making one not feel awkwardly crude but rather cheerful and liberated enough to slap their (of course cowboy-style spread) thighs. A truly hefty dose of green apple and a really well-executed Electric Light Orchestra of synthetic notes, and yet one does not feel like they are in the bottom shelf of the drugstore with the young men's plonk for the muscle temple or the nocturnal prowl - these associations are only artfully played with, as the whole is captured in quite elegant, fine, bright notes; a lavender that almost reminds one of a British gentleman from the club, before a cloud of patchouli wafts over. I find this to be an enormously wonderfully successful unserious fragrance. Even a man of the world can wear "Eden Splash" if he has reason to suspect that his business partner or date understands humor. And if he can take it with humor when the other person suddenly has to rush home after a deep breath, and their facial expressions go awry, and the beautifully planned evening then - hee hee hee - goes down the drain.
Eden Splash - Yes indeed, here's to the next 88 years!
The new "Urban Scents" edition is called "Vintage Spirit" and is dedicated to a situation, person, or idea that also relates to a decade. Each of the five fragrances features a partially colored drawing by the French photographer and illustrator Francois Cadière; in the Berlin store, the respective tester is placed on five pedestals with test strips, and behind it hangs the original artwork beautifully framed. The whole presentation does not come off as pretentious or snobbish, but is highly sympathetic and simply designed - there is also a mini-catalog, more like a short theater program, in which the five fragrances are briefly introduced along with their corresponding images. However, the price of the edition fragrances is quite steep: 270 euros for 100 ml of EdP.
Now, to the fragrance, which I would like to introduce today only as a precursor for larger commentators than I am, quite summarily and cursorily; after just one test, more would be presumptuous.
If you flinched at the phrase "ordering a virgin plot" in the first paragraph of this comment, you were quite right. The fragrance is called "Eden Splash," which refers to the legendary, indestructible playboy and operator of various (rather harmless) after-hours clubs (most famously: "Big Eden") in West Berlin (especially) from the 60s to the 80s, the now 88-year-old Rolf Eden. Cadière's drawing depicts a rather muscular, youthful, rough-around-the-edges type on a kind of bar stool in a stylized tropical landscape, dressed only in swim trunks and a chunky gold chain, with his legs spread in a western, even pornographic manner; in front of a backdrop of gigantic leaves, behind which a young long-haired beauty peeks out. The fragrance is described in the aforementioned brochure (in English) as follows: "Eden Splash - Explores the masculine stereotype of fougère-like freshness of the 80s, uniquely infused with a touch of Berlin. The fougère base accord contains lavender, geranium, coumarin, benzyl salicylate, patchouli, and crystalline moss. The Berlin touch is characterized by a lively (perhaps better translated as 'boisterous') green apple, Iso-E-Super, and a few little secrets."
The ingredient list here on Parfumo is evidently taken from this brochure. A closer look is warranted at the "crystalline moss" (in the original: "crystal moss"). What could that be? A play on words with "Crystal Meth"? A Google search primarily yielded "Crystal Moss" as a woman's name (of course, "Crystal" is a common first name, and "Moss" like Kate Moss, so there are likely several ladies worldwide with that name), and secondarily some hits for an obscure "Crystal-Moss-Animal," which is a small underwater creature that looks mossy. It seems there is no "crystalline moss," so it appears that here, just like with the "lively green apple" (which apparently alludes to the Garden of Eden) and the "little secrets," there is a playful wink involved.
And so I perceive this little work of art: An incredibly cheerful, upbeat fragrance that winks so vigorously that no eye remains dry, and that elegantly ironizes a gentleman's joke, making one not feel awkwardly crude but rather cheerful and liberated enough to slap their (of course cowboy-style spread) thighs. A truly hefty dose of green apple and a really well-executed Electric Light Orchestra of synthetic notes, and yet one does not feel like they are in the bottom shelf of the drugstore with the young men's plonk for the muscle temple or the nocturnal prowl - these associations are only artfully played with, as the whole is captured in quite elegant, fine, bright notes; a lavender that almost reminds one of a British gentleman from the club, before a cloud of patchouli wafts over. I find this to be an enormously wonderfully successful unserious fragrance. Even a man of the world can wear "Eden Splash" if he has reason to suspect that his business partner or date understands humor. And if he can take it with humor when the other person suddenly has to rush home after a deep breath, and their facial expressions go awry, and the beautifully planned evening then - hee hee hee - goes down the drain.
Eden Splash - Yes indeed, here's to the next 88 years!
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