05/19/2019
Micscent
9 Reviews
Translated
Show original
Micscent
Top Review
13
A dozen roses for the man (6/12)
As a newcomer here, I'm going to try my hand at a series of comments. This is the sixth part.
The motivation, the idea and the criteria
I'm a real fan of the scent of roses (in my youth my mother had Paris from YSL. I found "the hammer") But the rose isn't exactly the one you first come across as part of a men's fragrance. Nevertheless, I think the rose is contained in more and more men's fragrances.
According to the following criteria I have selected 12 of these fragrances and will comment and compare them bit by bit:
- Men's fragrance (exception Desert Rose from Urban Scents as unisex fragrance, I just had to add)
- Rose as heart note (exception: Much ado about the Duke of Penhaligon, I was just in London at the idea)
- Published from the year 2000
- Rating of at least 6.0 with at least 40 ratings
- No Oud (not so mine)
Fragrance No. 6 is: Desert Rose (*2014) (as a unisex fragrance the one exception among the criteria)
(previously: (1) Lumière Noire pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, (2) 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract by Atkinsons, (3) Lyric Man by Amouage, (4) Colonia Ambra by Acqua di Parma), (5) Déclaration d'un Soir by Cartier
The house, the perfumer and the shopping
The French Marie Le Febvre (*1976) began her career at the age of 13. During a student internship in a cosmetics company she met the perfume star Jacques Cavallier (who designed "Pasha de Cartier" and "L´Eau d´Issey" only a few years later (1992)). He gave her a small chemistry set for perfumers, with the order to keep a fragrance diary. After a week she gave him her homework and got a second, bigger box for it. At the end of the internship she had found a mentor. This childhood encounter initially led her to study chemistry. She then went to the famous perfume school ISPICA in Versailles - like most of the protagonists of "A Dozen of Roses for Men" - and wrote her thesis about the sweet grass vetiver. After her studies, she worked for international perfume houses such as L'Oréal, the LVMH Group and Estée Lauder. Together with her husband, Alexander Urban, who is an expert in fragrance raw materials, she opened the fragrance manufactory "Urban Scents" in Berlin Schöneberg in 2014. As far as the name is concerned, almost everyone probably had a different association at first! By the way, at this point I would like to mention the bottle for once: The midnight blue design (absolutely against the sunlight!) with a cap made of brushed brass comes from a glass factory in Dresden from the 1930s. A propeller is the label and documents the passion of the two owners for flying. I recommend the "Duftspaziergang Nr. 4" by TVSpee (https://www.parfumo.de/Benutzer/FvSpee/Blog/Eintrag/Berliner_uftspaziergnge_Teil_4_Dona_Herrera_Sancha_Pansa_und_die_Propellerflgel) to the shop in Berlin, which also houses a lot of art and in which Marie Le Febvre also creates custom-made fragrances for customers.
The fragrance, the ingredients and the experience
According to the Süddeutsche Zeitung, Marie Le Febvre's fragrance creations are "characterized by a reduced opulence that is expressed in the purity of the ingredients and the craftsman's attention to detail" Desert Rose, named after the desert rose, a plant that can also flower in hot areas, is a fine example of this. "Desert Rose" smells rosy from the start. The rose is only accompanied by a few other ingredients. On the one hand there are the spicy components cardamom and ginger and on the other hand the more sweet facets of salicylates and musk. Here we have to deal with an intense but in no case exhausting (Moroccan) rose. In addition to the spices mentioned I mean nutmeg, saffron and pepper. In the foreground (according to the scent pyramid), however, the cardamom belonging to the ginger family - here in contrast to "Décalaration d´un Soir" - is clearly reduced and the ginger itself. The essential oil extracted from the root of the ginger also smells fresh and fruity, but also has a balsamic and somewhat lemony note. Ginger oil also has a stimulating and euphoric effect. Salicylates are the salts of salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is found in essential oils and as a plant hormone in the leaves, blossoms and roots of various plants (e.g. the sugar birch) and, as ethyl salicylic acid ester, has a pleasant mintlike odor, which can be perceived beautifully here. (In North America, almost all chewing gum manufacturers offer the taste Wintergreen, which contains salicylic acid methyl ester, in addition to the classic flavours such as peppermint.). Like Lyric Man, there's musk in the base. And quite typically, an animal and a slightly sweet scent is combined. The "animal element" conveys the warmth and thus the sensations of security as well as sexual stimulation. The course of the fragrance remains very constant over the whole time (with me approx. 8 hours with a not too strong Sillage). Again and again I sniff and that for several days and weeks, but the scent cannot be "nailed down". A wonderful constant change, better still an ambivalence, which really makes the fragrance a unisex fragrance and therefore special androgynous. This without ever becoming arbitrary, but always stay special.
The conclusion, the comparison and the practical application
This rose is
- light and dark
- velvety warm and fresh
- filigree transparent and deep
- delicately mild and peppery
- sweet and spicy
- soft balsamic and sharp
- calming and stimulating euphoric < br /> - classic and modern
- feminine and masculine
This rose always remains ambivalent and androgynous. He or she does not send the wearer in a particular direction, but in all directions. Desert Rose" thus becomes the olfactory analogy of Umberto Eco's book title "The Name of the Rose". There the title refers to the last sentence of the book "Die Rose von einst steht nur als Name ..." (The rose of once only stands as name ...) Eco commented on this hidden quote: "The name of the rose sends the reader in all directions - not in any particular direction." The "hammer" for every occasion and for me a smooth 10!
(1) Lumière Noire pour Homme - The noble softie
(2) 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract - The elegant Brite
(3) Lyric Man - The "pure" Rose
(4) Colonia Ambra - The "warm (rose) wood"
(5) Déclaration d'un Soir - The "olfactory emotion"
(6) Desert Rose - "The Name of the Rose"
The motivation, the idea and the criteria
I'm a real fan of the scent of roses (in my youth my mother had Paris from YSL. I found "the hammer") But the rose isn't exactly the one you first come across as part of a men's fragrance. Nevertheless, I think the rose is contained in more and more men's fragrances.
According to the following criteria I have selected 12 of these fragrances and will comment and compare them bit by bit:
- Men's fragrance (exception Desert Rose from Urban Scents as unisex fragrance, I just had to add)
- Rose as heart note (exception: Much ado about the Duke of Penhaligon, I was just in London at the idea)
- Published from the year 2000
- Rating of at least 6.0 with at least 40 ratings
- No Oud (not so mine)
Fragrance No. 6 is: Desert Rose (*2014) (as a unisex fragrance the one exception among the criteria)
(previously: (1) Lumière Noire pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, (2) 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract by Atkinsons, (3) Lyric Man by Amouage, (4) Colonia Ambra by Acqua di Parma), (5) Déclaration d'un Soir by Cartier
The house, the perfumer and the shopping
The French Marie Le Febvre (*1976) began her career at the age of 13. During a student internship in a cosmetics company she met the perfume star Jacques Cavallier (who designed "Pasha de Cartier" and "L´Eau d´Issey" only a few years later (1992)). He gave her a small chemistry set for perfumers, with the order to keep a fragrance diary. After a week she gave him her homework and got a second, bigger box for it. At the end of the internship she had found a mentor. This childhood encounter initially led her to study chemistry. She then went to the famous perfume school ISPICA in Versailles - like most of the protagonists of "A Dozen of Roses for Men" - and wrote her thesis about the sweet grass vetiver. After her studies, she worked for international perfume houses such as L'Oréal, the LVMH Group and Estée Lauder. Together with her husband, Alexander Urban, who is an expert in fragrance raw materials, she opened the fragrance manufactory "Urban Scents" in Berlin Schöneberg in 2014. As far as the name is concerned, almost everyone probably had a different association at first! By the way, at this point I would like to mention the bottle for once: The midnight blue design (absolutely against the sunlight!) with a cap made of brushed brass comes from a glass factory in Dresden from the 1930s. A propeller is the label and documents the passion of the two owners for flying. I recommend the "Duftspaziergang Nr. 4" by TVSpee (https://www.parfumo.de/Benutzer/FvSpee/Blog/Eintrag/Berliner_uftspaziergnge_Teil_4_Dona_Herrera_Sancha_Pansa_und_die_Propellerflgel) to the shop in Berlin, which also houses a lot of art and in which Marie Le Febvre also creates custom-made fragrances for customers.
The fragrance, the ingredients and the experience
According to the Süddeutsche Zeitung, Marie Le Febvre's fragrance creations are "characterized by a reduced opulence that is expressed in the purity of the ingredients and the craftsman's attention to detail" Desert Rose, named after the desert rose, a plant that can also flower in hot areas, is a fine example of this. "Desert Rose" smells rosy from the start. The rose is only accompanied by a few other ingredients. On the one hand there are the spicy components cardamom and ginger and on the other hand the more sweet facets of salicylates and musk. Here we have to deal with an intense but in no case exhausting (Moroccan) rose. In addition to the spices mentioned I mean nutmeg, saffron and pepper. In the foreground (according to the scent pyramid), however, the cardamom belonging to the ginger family - here in contrast to "Décalaration d´un Soir" - is clearly reduced and the ginger itself. The essential oil extracted from the root of the ginger also smells fresh and fruity, but also has a balsamic and somewhat lemony note. Ginger oil also has a stimulating and euphoric effect. Salicylates are the salts of salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is found in essential oils and as a plant hormone in the leaves, blossoms and roots of various plants (e.g. the sugar birch) and, as ethyl salicylic acid ester, has a pleasant mintlike odor, which can be perceived beautifully here. (In North America, almost all chewing gum manufacturers offer the taste Wintergreen, which contains salicylic acid methyl ester, in addition to the classic flavours such as peppermint.). Like Lyric Man, there's musk in the base. And quite typically, an animal and a slightly sweet scent is combined. The "animal element" conveys the warmth and thus the sensations of security as well as sexual stimulation. The course of the fragrance remains very constant over the whole time (with me approx. 8 hours with a not too strong Sillage). Again and again I sniff and that for several days and weeks, but the scent cannot be "nailed down". A wonderful constant change, better still an ambivalence, which really makes the fragrance a unisex fragrance and therefore special androgynous. This without ever becoming arbitrary, but always stay special.
The conclusion, the comparison and the practical application
This rose is
- light and dark
- velvety warm and fresh
- filigree transparent and deep
- delicately mild and peppery
- sweet and spicy
- soft balsamic and sharp
- calming and stimulating euphoric < br /> - classic and modern
- feminine and masculine
This rose always remains ambivalent and androgynous. He or she does not send the wearer in a particular direction, but in all directions. Desert Rose" thus becomes the olfactory analogy of Umberto Eco's book title "The Name of the Rose". There the title refers to the last sentence of the book "Die Rose von einst steht nur als Name ..." (The rose of once only stands as name ...) Eco commented on this hidden quote: "The name of the rose sends the reader in all directions - not in any particular direction." The "hammer" for every occasion and for me a smooth 10!
(1) Lumière Noire pour Homme - The noble softie
(2) 24 Old Bond Street Triple Extract - The elegant Brite
(3) Lyric Man - The "pure" Rose
(4) Colonia Ambra - The "warm (rose) wood"
(5) Déclaration d'un Soir - The "olfactory emotion"
(6) Desert Rose - "The Name of the Rose"
6 Comments