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Notes03/30/2023
Elysium
718 Reviews
Elysium
1
A Great Boot Starts With Great Leather
It is difficult to understand what analogy inspired the name of this fragrance, Full Moon Over The Desert. The principal theme of this series N° 2, is the desert in all the highlights of day and night. Likewise, it is clear that the perfume revolves around a leathery, phenolic, semi-tarry, and mossy accord. The first impression I had smelling it was that of two perfumes from the Exclusive collection, True Leather Men and True Leather Women, but right after, the perfume takes another direction and veers towards the accords of Ombré Leather (2018) Eau de Parfum and Tuscan Leather Eau de Parfum, those of Memo Cuirs Nomades, with touches that recall the gourmand smoky amber of Baccarat Rouge 540 Eau de Parfum. Yes, the essence contains a mixture of all these perfumes, reinforcing the leathery note, embellishing it with myriad facets as if to portray an image seen through a kaleidoscope.
Suppose it is true that nose Benoit Lapouza was inspired by his creation Angels' Share, creating a reinterpretation of Sand Desert At Sunset. In that case, it might be equally valid that nose Jordi Fernández was inspired by one of his creations, for example, a reinterpretation of Walk On The Wild Side. Why do I think this? Because these last two perfumes have a lot of notes in common, both recall both Memo Cuirs and Baccarat Rouge 540. But all of this is my thoughts aloud, and it’s unimportant to me. Instead, what matters is the tenacious perfume, a dark, brutal, pitch-black leather with a brilliant performance. The most leathery of the four in the ZARA FRAGRANCE SERIES N° 02, fairie, powdery, and deep, with many points in common with niche leathery products. Risqué, yet sensual. Outstanding quality. ZARA’s official website describes the perfume as “a woody fragrance whose pyramid reveals bergamot and pink pepper top notes on a base of caramel and iris wrapped in leather and evernyl.”
Just for an instant, the fragrance releases a citrus note of bergamot peel, a little sweet and aseptic, which is immediately obscured by the arrogance and intrusiveness of the leather accord, which bluntly makes me understand who I’m dealing with. It is a hard leathery, similar to the full-grain harness of waxed leather boots or saddles, rather than the ultra-smooth split-grain of Nappa leather gloves. A leather nuance that looks very much like the smell of a saffron flower, spicy, not mentioned but is felt. You must like the leathery accord because it is present in all phases of the perfume, cutting through the heart like a sword and almost certainly reaching the base with synthetic molecular notes of IsoButyl Quinoline, birch bark, and labdanum.
The velvety and powdery notes of the iris take up space in the heart, hinted at and not dominant, adding a dusty aspect that gradually takes the place of the opening spicy harshness. It almost smells the damp sand wet from the humidity of the evening while the wind carries clouds of smoke from the embers of a nearby bonfire, a soft smoke. Perhaps there is not only an iris in the heart, and I seem to capture the dewy and metallic accords of violet leaves. Despite the smoky and slightly caramelised aspects, I can hardly perceive the caramel. But maybe I need more time. I have to wear it a little more on other occasions.
When the fragrance reaches its finish, the smell of the leather is tenacious, sticky, and pitch dark. The same smell permeates the air when there is work in progress to renew the road surface, the smell of boiling tar poured, crushed, and levelled on the roadbed. Smoke. Ash. Something mossy and inky comes to me, and it’s the synthetic evernyl, the substitute for oakmoss. Without making comparisons or associations, the essence is like the one we find in Encre Noire Eau de Toilette, despite being two very different from each other. What remains on the blotter, even after a few days, is a hint of inked leather, like the atmosphere you breathe in a tannery.
To conclude, the performance is fantastic, and this is the most powerful of the series. Perhaps the projection is not abysmal and is almost intimate, but the longevity is crazy. I feel it on me for many hours. It is suitable for a cool climate, and autumn and winter nights are perfect, although I admit I will use it on cooler evenings this spring. The wild side of leather and its voluptuous yet smooth qualities with a distinctive and contemporary tone. Raw and refined, vibrant and sophisticated. For a date, a dinner, or a night event.
I'm basing my impressions on a bottle I've owned since March 2023 (BC 30680).
-Elysium
Suppose it is true that nose Benoit Lapouza was inspired by his creation Angels' Share, creating a reinterpretation of Sand Desert At Sunset. In that case, it might be equally valid that nose Jordi Fernández was inspired by one of his creations, for example, a reinterpretation of Walk On The Wild Side. Why do I think this? Because these last two perfumes have a lot of notes in common, both recall both Memo Cuirs and Baccarat Rouge 540. But all of this is my thoughts aloud, and it’s unimportant to me. Instead, what matters is the tenacious perfume, a dark, brutal, pitch-black leather with a brilliant performance. The most leathery of the four in the ZARA FRAGRANCE SERIES N° 02, fairie, powdery, and deep, with many points in common with niche leathery products. Risqué, yet sensual. Outstanding quality. ZARA’s official website describes the perfume as “a woody fragrance whose pyramid reveals bergamot and pink pepper top notes on a base of caramel and iris wrapped in leather and evernyl.”
Just for an instant, the fragrance releases a citrus note of bergamot peel, a little sweet and aseptic, which is immediately obscured by the arrogance and intrusiveness of the leather accord, which bluntly makes me understand who I’m dealing with. It is a hard leathery, similar to the full-grain harness of waxed leather boots or saddles, rather than the ultra-smooth split-grain of Nappa leather gloves. A leather nuance that looks very much like the smell of a saffron flower, spicy, not mentioned but is felt. You must like the leathery accord because it is present in all phases of the perfume, cutting through the heart like a sword and almost certainly reaching the base with synthetic molecular notes of IsoButyl Quinoline, birch bark, and labdanum.
The velvety and powdery notes of the iris take up space in the heart, hinted at and not dominant, adding a dusty aspect that gradually takes the place of the opening spicy harshness. It almost smells the damp sand wet from the humidity of the evening while the wind carries clouds of smoke from the embers of a nearby bonfire, a soft smoke. Perhaps there is not only an iris in the heart, and I seem to capture the dewy and metallic accords of violet leaves. Despite the smoky and slightly caramelised aspects, I can hardly perceive the caramel. But maybe I need more time. I have to wear it a little more on other occasions.
When the fragrance reaches its finish, the smell of the leather is tenacious, sticky, and pitch dark. The same smell permeates the air when there is work in progress to renew the road surface, the smell of boiling tar poured, crushed, and levelled on the roadbed. Smoke. Ash. Something mossy and inky comes to me, and it’s the synthetic evernyl, the substitute for oakmoss. Without making comparisons or associations, the essence is like the one we find in Encre Noire Eau de Toilette, despite being two very different from each other. What remains on the blotter, even after a few days, is a hint of inked leather, like the atmosphere you breathe in a tannery.
To conclude, the performance is fantastic, and this is the most powerful of the series. Perhaps the projection is not abysmal and is almost intimate, but the longevity is crazy. I feel it on me for many hours. It is suitable for a cool climate, and autumn and winter nights are perfect, although I admit I will use it on cooler evenings this spring. The wild side of leather and its voluptuous yet smooth qualities with a distinctive and contemporary tone. Raw and refined, vibrant and sophisticated. For a date, a dinner, or a night event.
I'm basing my impressions on a bottle I've owned since March 2023 (BC 30680).
-Elysium
Elysium
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