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Bittersweet tobacco
Boundless is weird in a good way. Some say it's a beginner-friendly Amouage that lacks the usual complexity. While that might be true in the air, it's a different story on skin. It's full of notes that should clash, but with Karine Vinchon-Spehner's godlike perfumery, they end up elevating each other in a coherent fashion.
A bitter tobacco absolute is the cornerstone of this blend. The other ingredients are meant to complement it and create an enjoyable wearing experience. Blood orange doesn't bring a juicy sensation but more of an orange peel zinginess. This is further accentuated by spicy ginger and a green touch of cardamom.
If there's any sweetness to Boundless, it's used as a contrast to the pungent notes. Initially, the scent is a bit sharp and dusty, but it's soon balanced by creamy vanilla. This results in a weirdly comforting bittersweet symphony of contrasting aspects. It's both dry and smooth, with tobacco and spices on a sweet backdrop.
The drydown introduces rich and warm resins. Myrrh blends with cocoa, creating a slightly powdery undertone. Frankincense offers a refreshing piney nuance and gentle smokiness. Other than a woody base, I can pick up a damp earthy facet of oakmoss and vetiver. I have to applaud Karine's work - it's a great composition that's difficult to pick apart. To my nose, the deep drydown is woody, resinous, sweet, powdery, smoky.
Everything has a downside and Boundless is no exception. It doesn't perform like a typical Amouage beast, so don't expect radiating density. While I get distinctive sniffs throughout the wear, it's a lighter perfume that lasts for like 8-9 hours on my skin with soft projection. As such, you could argue it's very approachable and versatile.
A bitter tobacco absolute is the cornerstone of this blend. The other ingredients are meant to complement it and create an enjoyable wearing experience. Blood orange doesn't bring a juicy sensation but more of an orange peel zinginess. This is further accentuated by spicy ginger and a green touch of cardamom.
If there's any sweetness to Boundless, it's used as a contrast to the pungent notes. Initially, the scent is a bit sharp and dusty, but it's soon balanced by creamy vanilla. This results in a weirdly comforting bittersweet symphony of contrasting aspects. It's both dry and smooth, with tobacco and spices on a sweet backdrop.
The drydown introduces rich and warm resins. Myrrh blends with cocoa, creating a slightly powdery undertone. Frankincense offers a refreshing piney nuance and gentle smokiness. Other than a woody base, I can pick up a damp earthy facet of oakmoss and vetiver. I have to applaud Karine's work - it's a great composition that's difficult to pick apart. To my nose, the deep drydown is woody, resinous, sweet, powdery, smoky.
Everything has a downside and Boundless is no exception. It doesn't perform like a typical Amouage beast, so don't expect radiating density. While I get distinctive sniffs throughout the wear, it's a lighter perfume that lasts for like 8-9 hours on my skin with soft projection. As such, you could argue it's very approachable and versatile.
Velvety leather
London is a well-blended fragrance that's perfectly unisex. If you don't enjoy leather scents that are too demanding, this might be right up your alley. It sits closer to the skin and floral nuances make it velvety - it's almost like Jordi used a suede accord.
The opening is light and pleasant, nothing animalic about it. A smooth leather note is mixed with violet and white flowers; I mostly get an iris facet with some jasmine. Nothing powdery or feminine - airy and uplifting florals. I suppose the refreshing factor could be attributed to cypress. While it's not piney, it still brings that conifer freshness and a spicy touch.
Raspberry ties everything together with its jammy-like character. The only leather-raspberry perfume I would compare this to is
Godolphin. That said, London is softer and easier to digest, as it lacks distinctive spices like saffron and the leather accord is nowhere as potent. Godolphin's leather is more in the 
Ombré Leather (2018) Eau de Parfum ballpark.
About 30 minutes into the wear, flowers and raspberry take a backseat, allowing leather to dictate the pace. It opens up into the good ol' seats in a luxury car kind of a vibe, combined with a touch of vanilla and a powdery warmth of amber. In the deeper drydown, London is comparable to Ombré Leather, except it lacks the earthy aspect and it's less sweet.
It lasts for 11+ hours on my skin with moderate to soft projection. To sum it up, you could say it's the brightest and easiest to wear out of all leather-raspberry creations. BTW if you enjoy the drydown phase but want more of a challenge,
Cuir Infrarouge is the perfect candidate. Citruses and spices replace florals, making for a bittersweet composition.
The opening is light and pleasant, nothing animalic about it. A smooth leather note is mixed with violet and white flowers; I mostly get an iris facet with some jasmine. Nothing powdery or feminine - airy and uplifting florals. I suppose the refreshing factor could be attributed to cypress. While it's not piney, it still brings that conifer freshness and a spicy touch.
Raspberry ties everything together with its jammy-like character. The only leather-raspberry perfume I would compare this to is
Godolphin. That said, London is softer and easier to digest, as it lacks distinctive spices like saffron and the leather accord is nowhere as potent. Godolphin's leather is more in the Ombré Leather (2018) Eau de Parfum ballpark.About 30 minutes into the wear, flowers and raspberry take a backseat, allowing leather to dictate the pace. It opens up into the good ol' seats in a luxury car kind of a vibe, combined with a touch of vanilla and a powdery warmth of amber. In the deeper drydown, London is comparable to Ombré Leather, except it lacks the earthy aspect and it's less sweet.
It lasts for 11+ hours on my skin with moderate to soft projection. To sum it up, you could say it's the brightest and easiest to wear out of all leather-raspberry creations. BTW if you enjoy the drydown phase but want more of a challenge,
Cuir Infrarouge is the perfect candidate. Citruses and spices replace florals, making for a bittersweet composition.
9 Comments
A beaver smoking a cigar
Unutamam is a fitting name - it's an unforgettable scent. "A beaver smoking a cigar" might sound like a corny joke, but to my nose, it's an accurate description of the drydown phase. The opening is a whole 'nother story. It's incredibly aromatic with a surprisingly refreshing quality. Rosemary gives off a piney nuance and juniper adds a cooling vibe.
Once oregano enters the stage, the scent profile ventures into a spicy and herbal direction. That said, it maintains its cold freshness due to a photorealistic mint accord which reminds me of harvesting mint leaves in my herb garden. Amber and floral notes are vague - if at all present - adding understated creamy and warm facets. I can pick up some sweet, clove-like spiciness from carnation, but that's it.
After an hour, Unutamam's animalic nature starts coming to life. Miguel Matos doesn't give a damn about IFRA regulations, but I doubt actual castoreum was used in a Nishane scent. Either way, it's close to the real thing. Combined with cistus, the drydown is about very dry and borderline filthy leather. It's animalic, but not overbearing and quite wearable.
Looking at the caramel note, one might hope for a sweet salvation. That couldn't be further from the truth. It enriches leather with a smoky sensation, resulting in a sexy tobacco facet. To me, it smells better and more realistic than any tobacco absolute, almost like smoking a high-end cuban cigar. It's rounded out by slightly damp oakmoss.
This isn't a daily wear perfume, but one that makes a statement. Great with a leather jacket or dressed in all black. I only wear it when I'm going out for drinks and cigars with the boys. The longevity and projection are nuclear and the juice itself is brown and sticky, so go easy on the sprays and don't stain your clothes.
Once oregano enters the stage, the scent profile ventures into a spicy and herbal direction. That said, it maintains its cold freshness due to a photorealistic mint accord which reminds me of harvesting mint leaves in my herb garden. Amber and floral notes are vague - if at all present - adding understated creamy and warm facets. I can pick up some sweet, clove-like spiciness from carnation, but that's it.
After an hour, Unutamam's animalic nature starts coming to life. Miguel Matos doesn't give a damn about IFRA regulations, but I doubt actual castoreum was used in a Nishane scent. Either way, it's close to the real thing. Combined with cistus, the drydown is about very dry and borderline filthy leather. It's animalic, but not overbearing and quite wearable.
Looking at the caramel note, one might hope for a sweet salvation. That couldn't be further from the truth. It enriches leather with a smoky sensation, resulting in a sexy tobacco facet. To me, it smells better and more realistic than any tobacco absolute, almost like smoking a high-end cuban cigar. It's rounded out by slightly damp oakmoss.
This isn't a daily wear perfume, but one that makes a statement. Great with a leather jacket or dressed in all black. I only wear it when I'm going out for drinks and cigars with the boys. The longevity and projection are nuclear and the juice itself is brown and sticky, so go easy on the sprays and don't stain your clothes.
A boozy masterpiece
I don't like to throw the M-word around, but it's obligatory in this case. Xerjoff and Miroslav Petkov have a massive winner here, venturing into the realms of boozy, sweet and leathery, with a mild animalic tinge and a warm myrrh note.
When you see grapefruit, cumin, boozy and animalic notes,
Overture Man immediately comes to mind. How do the two compare? While Overture smells like a spice bazaar with a sweaty nuance, Cruz is a lighter wear with more sweetness and booziness.
The opening is unique and incredibly pleasant, with an opulent rum note that's elevated by citruses, then grounded by a powdery sweetness of cinnamon and dried fruits. To my nose, it's not candied fruit - it actually reminds me of prunes and raisins.
Citruses and cumin merge into a subtle animalic facet, but don't worry, it's subdued by the boozy note. The scent bubble evokes a vivid image of Jack Sparrow holding a bottle of rum. Once the spiciness fades away, the animalic touch morphs into castoreum and labdanum, staying subtly present in the background.
Think of it as something between dry leather and clean animal fur, which complements the sweetness of the composition. Speaking of which, the combination of cinnamon and dried fruit is the perfect foundation for myrrh, making its resinous quality all the more appealing.
The performance is solid, I get 8 hours on skin, with 2 hours of a boozy/sweet cloud, then it turns into a leathery skin scent with honey-like, smoky myrrh. If you don't mind coming off as a slightly drunk, yet charming pirate, grab a sample of this hidden gem.
When you see grapefruit, cumin, boozy and animalic notes,
Overture Man immediately comes to mind. How do the two compare? While Overture smells like a spice bazaar with a sweaty nuance, Cruz is a lighter wear with more sweetness and booziness.The opening is unique and incredibly pleasant, with an opulent rum note that's elevated by citruses, then grounded by a powdery sweetness of cinnamon and dried fruits. To my nose, it's not candied fruit - it actually reminds me of prunes and raisins.
Citruses and cumin merge into a subtle animalic facet, but don't worry, it's subdued by the boozy note. The scent bubble evokes a vivid image of Jack Sparrow holding a bottle of rum. Once the spiciness fades away, the animalic touch morphs into castoreum and labdanum, staying subtly present in the background.
Think of it as something between dry leather and clean animal fur, which complements the sweetness of the composition. Speaking of which, the combination of cinnamon and dried fruit is the perfect foundation for myrrh, making its resinous quality all the more appealing.
The performance is solid, I get 8 hours on skin, with 2 hours of a boozy/sweet cloud, then it turns into a leathery skin scent with honey-like, smoky myrrh. If you don't mind coming off as a slightly drunk, yet charming pirate, grab a sample of this hidden gem.
4 Comments
Bittersweet leather
Cuir InfraRouge is one of the more complex fragrances in the leather-raspberry category. It's bitter, fruity and animalic, but also sweet, comforting and of course leathery. I have to applaud its boldness, despite preferring Jordi's more elegant blends, e.g. 
Oud Stallion.
The opening is a mixture of sour citruses, spices and suede, giving off a sexy animalic tinge. This is balanced by a jammy raspberry note which brings some sweetness, while cinnamon and orris make the leather smoother with their powdery, almost dusty nuances.
Similarly to other MC extraits, Cuir InfraRouge's loud projection calms down after an hour and starts settling into a skin scent. I get dry woodiness from cedar and gentle oud accord, accompanied by sweet facets of tonka bean and vanilla. The deep drydown reminds me of "London (Extrait de Parfum) | Widian / AJ Arabia" and
Emporio Armani - Stronger With You Leather.
I've found the claims about longevity to be greatly exaggerated. Maybe it's because vanilla doesn't work too well with my skin chemistry, but I get 8 hours at best. While that's decent, it's nowhere as potent as
Oud Maracujá or 
Oud Cadenza.
All things considered, it's a well-executed blend. Despite the sweet and "generic" drydown, the first hour will satisfy leather and citrus afficionados alike. It's bold enough to stand out and keep the wearer's attention, but the fruitiness makes it very approachable.
Oud Stallion.The opening is a mixture of sour citruses, spices and suede, giving off a sexy animalic tinge. This is balanced by a jammy raspberry note which brings some sweetness, while cinnamon and orris make the leather smoother with their powdery, almost dusty nuances.
Similarly to other MC extraits, Cuir InfraRouge's loud projection calms down after an hour and starts settling into a skin scent. I get dry woodiness from cedar and gentle oud accord, accompanied by sweet facets of tonka bean and vanilla. The deep drydown reminds me of "London (Extrait de Parfum) | Widian / AJ Arabia" and
Emporio Armani - Stronger With You Leather.I've found the claims about longevity to be greatly exaggerated. Maybe it's because vanilla doesn't work too well with my skin chemistry, but I get 8 hours at best. While that's decent, it's nowhere as potent as
Oud Maracujá or Oud Cadenza.All things considered, it's a well-executed blend. Despite the sweet and "generic" drydown, the first hour will satisfy leather and citrus afficionados alike. It's bold enough to stand out and keep the wearer's attention, but the fruitiness makes it very approachable.
4 Comments
