Relitaliano

Encens Suave, you refined charmer from Matière Première, you’ve slipped onto my skin like a silk tie knotted with intent. But Babycat, is that you, roaring in the distance with a brawnier swagger? While you, Encens Suave, weave a spell of understated elegance, YSL’s feline prowls with a rawer, more primal edge that feels like it could bench-press you in a duel of masculinity.

From the first spritz, Encens Suave unfurls like a gentleman’s library—benzoin lays down a warm, ambered foundation, laced with a vanilla that’s more pipe tobacco than patisserie. The incense curls upward, refined and meditative, like smoke from a scholar’s censer. It’s polished, poised, almost too civilized next to Babycat’s untamed growl. That YSL beast stalks with a muskier, animalic heft—think leather jackets and late-night whiskey, where Encens Suave opts for tailored wool and aged cognac.

The coffee note here is a sly nod, not the bold, charred kick of a blacksmith’s brew but a sophisticated espresso, sipped in quiet contemplation. Labdanum adds a resinous depth, smooth and controlled, grounding the scent in a way that feels like a whispered secret rather than a battle cry. Babycat, by contrast, barrels through with a rugged, vanillic intensity that’s less about finesse and more about dominance.

Longevity is Encens Suave’s quiet triumph—it lingers like a well-crafted argument, softening into a creamy, incense-kissed glow that holds court for hours. Its sillage is intimate yet magnetic, drawing curious glances without demanding the room. Babycat, though? It’s the guy who kicks the door down and owns the space, its masculine aura practically flexing.

Is Encens Suave a shadow of Babycat? Hardly. It’s the erudite poet to Babycat’s bare-knuckled brawler, both captivating but in different arenas. Where Babycat radiates raw, testosterone-fueled charisma, Encens Suave is the scent of a man who wins wars with words and wears his strength like a bespoke suit. Babycat may claim the crown for brute masculinity, but Encens Suave, you’ve stolen my heart with your cerebral seduction.

Oh, dear reader, gather 'round for a tale of scented bravado gone gloriously awry! I, Robert, your intrepid fragrance monarch, plunged headlong into the realm of *Amouage Opus XIV Royal Tobacco*, expecting a refined waltz with masculinity. What I got instead was a bombastic carnival—think less courtly minuet, more a cymbal-crashing parade that left my senses reeling and my ego both bruised and bewitched.

Picture this: four sprays from a weakly atomized travel decant, a modest gesture, I thought, to christen my day. Within the first hour, *Royal Tobacco* roared to life with the subtlety of a lion in a library. Tobacco, yes—rich, smoky, regal—but laced with saffron’s golden swagger and frankincense’s holy fire, it was as if I’d unleashed a genie who refused to go back in the bottle. The performance? Bombastic doesn’t cover it. By hour two, I was a walking sillage supernova, my presence sniffed and lauded by strangers *ten feet away*—no exaggeration, no hyperbole, just raw, unbridled potency. “Love that scent!” they chirped, while I, dear reader, was plotting an escape to the nearest open field.

You see, this fragrance is a gorgeous beast—a masculine masterpiece of tobacco’s velvet depth, oud’s shadowy growl, and amber’s molten caress. But I underestimated its might. My senses screamed for mercy, a headache blooming as the scent overwhelmed me like an overzealous orchestra. I fled outdoors, gulping fresh air to keep from choking myself out. You might think I scorn this scent—quite the contrary! It’s a love affair I wasn’t ready for, like falling for a dragon who breathes fire with every kiss.

For comparison, even *Interlude 53*, that titan I doused with four sprays straight from the bottle the other day, didn’t pack this punch. *Royal Tobacco* demands space—a grand hall, a windswept plain—not a cramped office or cozy café. I humbly advise: wear it in a vast arena to let it breathe, lest it strangle you with its splendor. Four sprays were my folly; next time, I’ll wield two, maybe three, and still expect to command the air.

In my quest for Amouage’s masculine treasures, *Opus XIV Royal Tobacco* has earned its crown—a scent so potent, so divine, it nearly dethroned my own sovereignty. Proceed with caution, my fellow kings, but proceed you must.


After 2 hours, the projection literally fell off a cliff, almost as if someone flicked a light switch off. It never dwindled to a mere skin scent, mind you, but drastically receded to a moderate sillage and projection. Wearing it in open air during that initial 2-hour blitz is highly advised—let it roar untamed. After this window, it tames enough to stride indoors, though still quite potent, commanding respect without overwhelming the room.

Well, well, well, if it isn’t Hermès sauntering back into my olfactory life with Terre d’Hermès Eau de Parfum Intense, a fragrance that dares to whisper “I’m new” while winking knowingly at its storied lineage. Launched in 2025 under the deft hands of Christine Nagel, this earthy-spicy elixir feels like the lovechild of a volcanic tryst and a gentleman’s coffee break—bold yet refined, audacious yet familiar.

The opening? A bergamot zing that slaps you awake like a barista who’s just discovered black pepper, but let’s be honest, it’s the coffee and licorice that steal the show for the first 45 minutes—dark, roasted beans arm-wrestling with a licorice whip so bold it could star in a noir film. It’s intense, yes, but not in the chest-thumping way of lesser scents—no, this is intensity with a PhD, a sophisticated smolder that evokes lava stone and burnt wood without ever needing to shout. After that initial burst, the Terre DNA settles in like a well-tailored suit, grounding the affair in that mineral-woody elegance we’ve come to adore, while the amber base sidles up with a warmth that’s less “cozy fireside” and more “I’ve just brokered a deal in a speakeasy.” In the drydown, it whispers sweet nothings of the original Terre d’Hermès Parfum, that flinty, woody depth creeping in like an old friend who’s grown even more dashing with time.

Make no mistake, this leans masculine—decidedly so. For the man who wants to smell like they’ve conquered both the boardroom and the wilds, this is your scent. On my skin, the projection is dominant for a good 1 to 1.5 hours, announcing my presence with a firm handshake, then softens into a sillage that trails elegantly for 3 to 4 hours—enough to linger without loitering. Nagel, you sly genius, you’ve done it again—taken the earth, made it chic, and given it a rugged edge. Bravo.

Duro by Nasomatto is a fragrance that commands attention, embodying strength, virility, and determination. As an Extrait de Parfum, its concentration lends itself to exceptional performance, but it truly shines when paired with the right conditions—heat being its greatest ally. My experience with Duro has revealed its nuanced complexity and outstanding sillage and longevity, making it a staple for those who embrace unapologetic masculinity.



Duro’s performance is nothing short of remarkable. During colder months, its projection remains moderate for about an hour before settling closer to the skin. However, in warmer weather, this fragrance transforms dramatically. The heat amplifies its diffusive properties, creating an impressive sillage that lasts almost all day. Whether worn casually or for formal occasions, Duro ensures you leave a lasting impression.

Longevity is another triumph for this scent. On my skin, Duro consistently lasts over 12 hours, evolving gracefully throughout its lifespan. This endurance speaks to the quality of its composition and concentration. Even as it transitions into a warm skin scent after several hours, it retains its character and allure.



Duro’s scent profile is unapologetically masculine—a bold blend of woods, leather, spices, and subtle booziness. Its opening is warm and slightly sweet, introducing patchouli and hints of smoky bitterness. As it develops, the leather becomes more prominent, supported by oud and abstract woody notes that exude rugged sophistication. The dry-down is a harmonious blend of ambered warmth and earthy patchouli with whispers of vanilla-like sweetness.

This fragrance thrives on contrasts: it is both aggressive yet refined, bold yet nuanced. It evokes images of power and confidence—perfect for someone dressed sharply in a suit or commanding attention in any setting.



While Duro can be worn year-round, it truly excels in summer’s heat. The warmth enhances its projection and allows the fragrance to bloom beautifully on the skin. For cooler seasons or indoor settings, its moderate projection makes it suitable without overwhelming those around you.



Nasomatto Duro is not just a fragrance; it’s a statement piece—a reflection of masculinity at its most confident and elegant. Its exceptional performance in terms of sillage and longevity ensures it stands out among other Extrait de Parfums. If you’re seeking a scent that embodies strength while offering nuanced complexity, Duro deserves your attention.

Jovoy's Incident Diplomatique is a masterclass in bold, yet harmonious contrasts. This fragrance doesn't whisper; it confidently declares its presence, a sophisticated statement crafted with a masterful hand. It's not a scent that shies away from complexity, but instead revels in the interplay of contrasting elements, resulting in a deeply engaging olfactory experience.

The opening immediately commands attention, a striking blend of seemingly disparate notes. Two distinct types of vetiver, Haitian and Javanese, form the core, each contributing its unique facet to the blend. The Haitian vetiver brings a refined, grassy elegance, while the Javanese vetiver adds an earthy, almost smoky depth. This dual vetiver accord is then brightened by a zesty mandarin orange, its citrusy sweetness cutting through the earthiness and preventing the fragrance from becoming too heavy.

What truly elevates this opening is the addition of nutmeg. The warm, spicy sweetness of nutmeg intertwines with the citrus and vetiver, adding a seductive layer that is both comforting and intriguing. It's an unexpected touch that elevates the fragrance beyond a simple vetiver composition, adding a layer of intrigue that sets it apart.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes emerge, revealing a truly exceptional patchouli and sandalwood accord. This is not the harsh, earthy patchouli often found in fragrances, but rather a refined, almost creamy patchouli that is perfectly balanced by the smooth, woody warmth of sandalwood. These notes create a grounding base that is both sensual and sophisticated, adding a touch of smoky sweetness that lingers on the skin for hours.

Based on personal experience, Incident Diplomatique's performance is impressive. The sillage is remarkable, leaving a noticeable scent trail that lingers in the air as you move. The projection is bold without being overwhelming, creating a scent bubble that's noticeable to those around you in the first few hours, then settling into a more moderate projection that remains detectable within arm's length.

The longevity is exceptional, easily lasting 10-12 hours on the skin and evolving throughout the day. The dual vetiver accord, combined with the patchouli and sandalwood base, contributes to its impressive staying power. Even after a long day, subtle traces of the fragrance can still be detected on the skin.

This powerful performance enhances the overall experience of the fragrance, allowing the complex interplay of notes to unfold gradually throughout the day. The initial burst of mandarin and nutmeg transitions smoothly into the heart of vetiver, while the base notes provide a long-lasting, sensual dry-down.

Incident Diplomatique is a testament to Jovoy's artistry, showcasing their ability to create fragrances that are both bold and nuanced, sophisticated and seductive. It's a fragrance for those who appreciate complexity and depth, for those who aren't afraid to make a statement. A little goes a long way – 2-3 sprays are sufficient for a full day of wear. This impressive performance makes it an excellent choice for those seeking a sophisticated, long-lasting fragrance that will carry them from day to night.