When a small niche perfume house like...
Rosendo Mateu influences large perfume houses, it means something. I mean,
Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21 as well as "Le Vestiaire - Babycat | Yves Saint Laurent" are inspired by "5 - Floral, Amber, Sensual Musk | Rosendo Mateu - Olfactive Expressions." It feels like everyone has been enchanted by No. 5, and both Guerlain and YSL thought, "we'll jump on this horse and do it our way." Is that still creative? No, certainly not. The creativity would lie solely in distinguishing oneself, giving the fragrance a certain house signature.
Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21 has the typical French Guerlain elegance that I expected. In this case, fortunately, without coming across as outdated (not so easy with Guerlain). Given the price, the bottle, and the fragrance notes, I admittedly had high expectations and was not disappointed regarding scent, raw material quality, longevity, and the appearance of the bottle. All these points get a 10 out of 10 from me. Only the sillage is typically French; an 8 seems adequate to me.
About the scent: Calm within itself. Enveloping. Warming. Embracing. Smooth. Noble. Sublime. Elegant. Fluffy like the softest nude-colored cashmere yarn or flowing like silvery-golden silk. For me, it has a (spice/garden) clove note and perhaps a bit of cardamom that gives it a slightly more intense touch. Over time, it develops a sweet-powdery, delicately smoky aura and vaguely reminds me of sunscreen from days gone by, which were all heavily scented back then. But all within an elegant framework, of course.
About the raw material quality: You can smell the quality of the fragrance from afar. The extrait lives up to its name.
The bottle is a jewel, yes, a real treasure that is hard to find its equal. Period. Perfectly crafted, adorned with gold elements all over, simply incredibly beautiful. The golden juice contributes to this.
Who is the fragrance for? For the wealthy, snobs, for those who want to appear rich, or the average consumer who wants to "treat themselves," after all, you only live once... :p Joking aside. For me, it's unisex. It’s not so feminine that it should deter men; a man doesn’t need "courage" to wear it.
Occasions: For me, this is a statement fragrance but also one for connoisseurs. Due to the scent impression and H&S, it’s suitable for special occasions, more of an evening and going-out fragrance. However, you can enjoy it anytime. A small spray or a tiny drop accompanies you all day.
The price: Well, this is something one can discuss at length. Ultimately, it’s subjective. For most of us, it takes up a large part of a month's net income. Whether it’s worth it can only be decided by each individual. I’m sure some will lower the fragrance rating due to the price and won’t carefully differentiate between scent and price-performance ratio; otherwise, the fragrance would be rated at 8.5 or higher.
With this fragrance, Guerlain surely wanted to outdo itself, both in quality and price. Both have succeeded for the traditional house. Does it bother Guerlain that some wrinkle their noses at this? We probably won’t find out....
When I consider that Rosendo No. 5 and Babycat strike a very similar chord, then the Planifolia Extrait 21 is not an option for me, also due to the price.