Teststreifen

Foreword:
Yesterday, completely randomly and without any prior notice, a sample of this interesting piece was left at my doorstep. My neighbor is just as addicted to perfumes as I am and regularly leaves little olfactory surprises at my door.
When I brought the scent inside in the evening and tested it, I had exactly 0.0 expectations.

In general, I really like the Issey Miyake DNA and I have a weakness for that slightly nostalgic 90s vibe, as known from Uomo? Eau de Toilette or the Chanel Allure line. And this scent hits that note as well - at least in its initial approach.

About the scent profile:
The opening is spicy-citrusy. The ginger immediately shows what’s going on. It becomes clear right away: We are dealing with a true clean man here. Clean, polished, polished².
What follows - and here I actually understand the somewhat critical voices - develops into a modern interpreted, aquatic-synthetic direction.

First off: I generally do not like synthetic fragrance materials, as they are often used in the designer segment.
But (and this is a big but): There is one man whom I greatly admire when it comes to exactly these components and who knows how to implement them well - Quentin Bisch. The man behind the infamous Bois Impérial Eau de Parfum or Ganymede Eau de Parfum. Scents that I personally consider to be small masterpieces.

Aha moment & nerd pride:
And now comes the part that makes me a little proud of myself. Hihihi
After the opening - especially throughout the day and in the drydown - I suddenly thought:
This spicy-warm, synthetic-aquatic background noise … it feels very much like Quentin Bisch’s signature. Almost like Bois Imperial.

And lo and behold: I was right.
I actually recognized his signature. Ok, some people are proud because their child brought home a good grade or they handled a critical conversation with an employee. And I’m like: :D So deep in the rabbit hole of the perfume world I am now. Help.

Conclusion:
So what remains in the end?

If you are looking for something fresh, clean, and masculinely pure, roughly in the direction of Bois Impérial Eau de Parfum, but with a sea breeze twist, and if you are open to synthetic fragrance materials, then this scent could be just your thing. I found the longevity and sillage to be strong. It consistently transported a little whiff from my wrist to my olfactory bulb over several phases. And that for several hours. A good sign.

However, I want to fairly note: The comparison with Bois Imperial may not hold for some. Fragrances are extremely subjective, and no one smells the same.

This little gem has positively surprised me anyway. I really like it a lot.
Will it finally find a place in my collection?
I don’t know.
Make your own judgment. Stay 90s!

That's exactly how it is, folks. Over the years, I've had the chance to test many fragrances. Niche, designer - I've experienced it all. But one fragrance that has accompanied me since my teenage years is this little gem here. And why? Because in my opinion, it is extremely versatile:

This fresh citrus-mandarin opening - wow! Simply invigorating. It always transports me to a vacation.

Then these salty, aquatic notes, which don't come off as cheap but always feel authentic, just incredible. Pepper joins in and adds that certain kick.

This drydown: even as a teenager, I thought it smelled so noble and elegant. How do they do it? As a little perfume junkie, I now know, of course, it’s the notes of tonka bean and soft vanilla carried on this musk base. I have been enchanted for decades now by how this fragrance ends in the drydown.

"Allure Homme Sport (Eau de Toilette) | Chanel," I've tried all your flankers. Allure Homme Sport Eau Extrême was too creamy for me, Allure Homme Sport Superleggera an olfactory slap in the face. Yes, your longevity used to be better, but you were always there and will always remain. For a long time, you were truly the only one by my side, my signature scent. May the perfume god protect you from reformulation for a long time. Amen!

But now the big question: Which is your pick in the game: "If you could only wear one fragrance?" :-)

… I thought to myself when I got to test this wonderful piece. I had had Serge Lutens fragrances on my radar for a while, so I thought: come on, let’s just try out the classics.

No. 1 was Chergui Eau de Parfum: yes, that was very nice but it didn’t completely captivate me. Next, I tested Ambre sultan Eau de Parfum: I was almost disappointed. I had imagined it completely differently after reading reviews and watching videos. I don’t know, but the spices somehow overwhelmed me. I kept thinking of an Indian dish … (don’t get me wrong, I love Indian food, but I don’t need to be reminded of it right now - sorry, I hope I’m not stepping on anyone's toes)

But then, with the third sample, it was all over for me. I sprayed the good stuff Écrin de fumée and thought, yeah, it should be okay. But then bam! Wow. I had never smelled anything like it. But wait, somehow the progression felt familiar. Okay, immediately the parallels to Side Effect shot into my mind. Mhh yes, it exists in a similar universe, but has its own vibe. What I noticed immediately while testing: Serge Lutens seems to incorporate a note in his fragrances (at least those I’ve tested so far) that marks his signature. In every fragrance, there was this floral, balsamic, unfortunately not further definable note. Plant sap? Simply genius! :O

PS: definitely check out an interview on YouTube with the esteemed gentleman. Quite a character, that man :D

So what makes Écrin de fumée so special for me? Well, how should I put it? There are very few fragrances that radiate a certain atmosphere. They create a kind of aura that sparks your imagination. I find the scent incredibly attractive due to its sweet cocoa, paired with its alcoholic notes, this “balsamic” quality, and its dark depth. Yes, almost a bit wicked. With this fragrance, I really get thoughts like: “sneaky contract killer prowling somewhere in a dark alley in New York” or “scenes from the music video for Type O Negative's - Christian Woman”.

I knew with the first sniff: Yes baby, you’re moving in. And that’s despite my experiences with perfumes that have alcoholic notes. Well, that’s how it goes sometimes :D

After extensive testing, I can also say regarding longevity and sillage: Perfect! It envelops you well for 8-9 hours without ever being intrusive. Simply excellently balanced! If I now also consider the price …

Lirum Larum: definitely test this good piece! Maybe it will awaken the killer in you too ;P

Let the year wind down in a relaxed manner :-) Take care!

Hello, you perfume enthusiasts!
I also want to briefly share my thoughts on Trono.

So, let me say right off the bat: for my taste, this is the best "cloned" scent that has come my way so far.

When I tested it against my original sample yesterday, I really had to start laughing. Interestingly, I also did a blind test with my wife. She even thought the original was the dupe.

But alright. Now let's be objective. So, for the description: if you describe one, you describe the other. BUT: there are minimal deviations (fine, fine nuances) that should still be noted:

- the fruity apple top note is a bit more dominant in Trono than in its counterpart. It is minimal, but really just minimal, synthetic. This is not the case with Layton.
- Trono strikes me as a tiny bit more "floral".
- Trono lacks the "dark" depth. I suspect it's the tobacco that is completely missing here.
- Longevity and sillage: for my taste, the point goes to Trono. It's simply more enduring.

Conclusion: can you do without the dark notes of Layton and don't want to spend 200€? Then go for this gem. It's worth it :)

Have a fragrant day!

Since I got in touch with MAD Pafumeur from Turkey through a lovely souk partner here in the forum, especially with Forza leading the way, I also, fortunately, came into contact with this fantastic fragrance in the form of a sample.

What can I say: Hammer perfume for spring/summer/maybe even a daily driver, which also lasts really well. That’s the first thing!!!

But what do you get here fragrance-wise: I perceive the top note as VERY fruity. I can clearly smell a peach here. Although it’s not listed in the pyramid, I can definitely sense it. On top of that, there are sandalwood, musk, and an incredibly beautiful tea note. That’s it. Good things don’t always have to be complicated. I can’t quite understand the aquatic tendency. But see for yourself.

Now, all of this sounds quite feminine regarding the fragrance notes, right?! ;-) I would say it’s unisex wearable: Yes! But with a tendency towards the masculine. I definitely see it more on a man.

For me, this perfume is a total discovery and an absolute insider tip for the warm season. Especially if you don’t want to smell like everybody else.

Clear purchase recommendation!!!

Only downside: Simply not distributed in Germany :-(