03/29/2013
Apicius
222 Reviews
Apicius
2
Tradition And “Precious Woods”
Next to the glorious Al Shams and the agreeable Lujain, Dahn Al Oudh Raysan is number 3 in the series of oud sprays by Ajmal. Dahn al Oud or Dehnal Oud denominates a perfume that focusses on the scent of natural oud oils – although other fragrant ingredients may take part. According to my impression this applies at least for Ajmal. Allegedly they own some plantations by themselves which may explain the relatively low prices of these oud sprays.
Just to keep in mind: True Dehnal Oud has absolutely nothing in common with the current oud hype initiated by Montale and other western brands – it smells completely different. In fact, the synthetic oud bases by Givaudan and others both imitate and outclass the horrible substitutes that the Arab brands incorporate in their cheapest perfumes for the less wealthy. In opposite to the musty oud bases, natural oud smells warm and woody, with animal or even fecal aspects, and depending on its quality, a wide range of complex further notes in the head. Unlike the stuff from Montale, it is not about Aladin's magic lantern, flying carpets, fierce-looking harem guardians and the proverbial scents of the orient. This kind of Arab romance is preferably provided by the western industry.
Maybe this is the reason why Ajmal recommends Dahn Al Oudh Raysan to an Arab audience.
Actually, Dahn Al Oudh Raysan isn't that exotic. For about 70 US$ you get 30 ml spray – which I prefer to the perfume oils that I find difficult to handle. If you look at the prices for natural oud oil it becomes clear that we must have a basic quality here.
Oils from India and Cambodia were discreetly enhanced with a rosy and sandal-like note that seems to be part of the Arab tradition. Supposedly, the oud oils used here may have not been able to bring in much complexness to the head note by themselves. You can experience this special sandalwood note that is very rare in western perfumery if you have the opportunity to test the “Precious Woods” perfume by April Aromatics.
Quickly, the pure oud scent prevails.I smell a rather dark and strong variant of wood which contains traces of dark chocolate – but also some blond aspects that remind of hemp, sisal or the wood flakes that people put into hamster cages. Presumably this condradiction reflects the two origins of the oud oils used here.
Dahn Al Oudh Raysan is not completely pure. In the drydown, a distictively tart woodiness comes up – a note we know well from western perfumes. I would allocate this note especially among the rather new puristic woody gents' fragrances such as provided by Dsquared or the niche brand Ramon Monegal.
Compared with the other two sprays by Ajmal, Dahn Al Oudh Raysan is relatively lean and demure. Being a woody purist, it even exceeds its western neighbours that may at least have some citruses or aquatic notes to go along with the tart woodiness.
Really, Dahn Al Oudh Raysan is not bad but one cannot call it a fully developed perfume. It is a rather bland quality which I think has been extended with dry woods from the aromachemical industry. A wonderful feature of high-quality oud oil is missing: to contain so much complexness by itself that any “enhancement” with other scented ingredients would be a sacriledge.
Dahn Al Oudh Raysan may drop behind the other two, nevertheless, I see a reasonable use: it should be great for layering. To one or the other tepid summer scent it could provide big fat winter tyres. If you are into such experiences, go get it. Otherwise, the courageous should rather go for Al Shams, and the cautious for the vanillic and amiable Lujain, the oud with “Guerlinade”.
Just to keep in mind: True Dehnal Oud has absolutely nothing in common with the current oud hype initiated by Montale and other western brands – it smells completely different. In fact, the synthetic oud bases by Givaudan and others both imitate and outclass the horrible substitutes that the Arab brands incorporate in their cheapest perfumes for the less wealthy. In opposite to the musty oud bases, natural oud smells warm and woody, with animal or even fecal aspects, and depending on its quality, a wide range of complex further notes in the head. Unlike the stuff from Montale, it is not about Aladin's magic lantern, flying carpets, fierce-looking harem guardians and the proverbial scents of the orient. This kind of Arab romance is preferably provided by the western industry.
Maybe this is the reason why Ajmal recommends Dahn Al Oudh Raysan to an Arab audience.
Actually, Dahn Al Oudh Raysan isn't that exotic. For about 70 US$ you get 30 ml spray – which I prefer to the perfume oils that I find difficult to handle. If you look at the prices for natural oud oil it becomes clear that we must have a basic quality here.
Oils from India and Cambodia were discreetly enhanced with a rosy and sandal-like note that seems to be part of the Arab tradition. Supposedly, the oud oils used here may have not been able to bring in much complexness to the head note by themselves. You can experience this special sandalwood note that is very rare in western perfumery if you have the opportunity to test the “Precious Woods” perfume by April Aromatics.
Quickly, the pure oud scent prevails.I smell a rather dark and strong variant of wood which contains traces of dark chocolate – but also some blond aspects that remind of hemp, sisal or the wood flakes that people put into hamster cages. Presumably this condradiction reflects the two origins of the oud oils used here.
Dahn Al Oudh Raysan is not completely pure. In the drydown, a distictively tart woodiness comes up – a note we know well from western perfumes. I would allocate this note especially among the rather new puristic woody gents' fragrances such as provided by Dsquared or the niche brand Ramon Monegal.
Compared with the other two sprays by Ajmal, Dahn Al Oudh Raysan is relatively lean and demure. Being a woody purist, it even exceeds its western neighbours that may at least have some citruses or aquatic notes to go along with the tart woodiness.
Really, Dahn Al Oudh Raysan is not bad but one cannot call it a fully developed perfume. It is a rather bland quality which I think has been extended with dry woods from the aromachemical industry. A wonderful feature of high-quality oud oil is missing: to contain so much complexness by itself that any “enhancement” with other scented ingredients would be a sacriledge.
Dahn Al Oudh Raysan may drop behind the other two, nevertheless, I see a reasonable use: it should be great for layering. To one or the other tepid summer scent it could provide big fat winter tyres. If you are into such experiences, go get it. Otherwise, the courageous should rather go for Al Shams, and the cautious for the vanillic and amiable Lujain, the oud with “Guerlinade”.
