Since, yes since when, I would guess since the late 70s of the last century, we have been experiencing a progressive banalization of perfume. Lovers of exquisite fragrances will agree, not only with me but also with Edouard Fléchier, creator of Tendre Poison, who lamented in an interview that the market is in crisis because marketing now dictates the scents. However, I do not decide on marketing matters. Everyone decides in their own specific place.
How different it was when Mademoiselle Chanel confidently selected the legendary No. 5 from various fragrances presented to her for evaluation. That one and no other! Whether it actually happened exactly like that is debatable. In any case, who can deny that Mademoiselle Chanel knew very well what she wanted and did not submit to any external dictates.
How different it is with Bleu de Chanel, which I am commenting on. A clear primacy of marketing. Almost helpless is a review, yes almost a justification, that I found online after all the many negative critiques: It’s not so bad, it’s a genuine Chanel, just more subtly formulated and finely tuned, and very much in line with the house. And if one writes that it is still a good scent and reminds one of Encre noire, then why should I buy Bleu de Chanel, I would rather get the original, namely Encre noire.
But now to Amouage, that perfume house in Oman, which, like many other niche houses, tries to fill this gap with truly good and unique perfumes. When Amouage was founded, the perfumers were given free rein. The price was secondary. Only the best, most exquisite raw materials. The first scent "Gold" was a sensation, a grand, opulent fragrance. Soon, Amouage was referred to as the Chanel of the East. Certainly, Gold was and is not wearable for everyone and on every occasion, but that does not change the fact that it was immediately hailed as a masterpiece. And here lies a certain tragedy. Gold became the benchmark against which every other scent from this house must be measured. This was achieved with varying degrees of success. Reflection, Arcus, Cirrus, and others offered only an average scent experience despite good raw materials. They were an attempt to adapt to the mainstream, generic perfumes. Despite initially good sales, these perfumes, with the exception of Reflection, were taken off the market. It was recognized that one could only survive in the fiercely competitive market by continuing to serve the niche.
The Library Collection consists of the trilogy of Opus I-II-III. Not only at parfumo are they listed as unisex fragrances. If you look at Amouage's homepage, you will find that the Library Collection occupies a peculiar position: it is categorized among women's fragrances but is clearly separated from them. Unisex fragrances with a feminine touch? In any case, the traditional concept of offering a women's and a men's version of a perfume has been abandoned. In my opinion, Opus I and Opus III are women's fragrances. Opus I perhaps for very bold men (jasmine-dominated, ylang-ylang and tuberose are too strongly dosed), Opus III is an olfactory floral oriental bomb that completely overwhelms my sense of smell and that I could never wear. In my eyes, it is a purely feminine scent.
Then there is Opus II. It was composed by Michele Saramito. He has previously appeared with Caron Eau de Cologne Caron, Gianfranco Ferre Gieffeffe, Le Prince Jardinier Citrus Allegro, and two other unknown perfumes to me. And now, Amouage's Opus II. In terms of fragrance direction, it is a Fougère with a classic structure, although a spicy accord adds wonderful additional accents. Peppery notes dance around the lavender in the top note. Wonderful! In the heart note, cardamom particularly stands out accompanied by rose, cinnamon, and jasmine. The base is woody and framed by silver frankincense - the ingredient that signatures all Amouage fragrances. It gives the scent a certain depth. Opus II clings very well and is close to the skin. So you don't carry around a long scent trail. In my opinion, it is the "most masculine" scent of this collection. Opus II appears very noble, remains elegantly restrained, and one immediately notices that the ingredients are of the highest quality. I could very well imagine it in my collection.
Oh yes, compared to "Gold," all three have not reached their goal in my eyes, but they are certainly not generic fragrances that you can sniff out on every corner.
Epilogue: At Amouage, as I have read, they are working on a new classic pair and are inspired by Lac des cygnes, Swan Lake. After Epic, Lyric, and now the Library Collection, a chapter is closing, and they are now turning to music. Probably a reference to the artistic director of Amouage, Christoph Chong, a respected orchestra conductor in London. One can be curious.