05/09/2020
Yatagan
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Antiquity
Uncommented fragrances No. 150
i am pleased that my 150th comment on uncommented fragrances is for a perfume by Annette Neuffer. I liked the fragrances from the very beginning, I have followed the development of the brand with great interest and so far there is no weak fragrance for me. Of course you have to like the DNA of Neuffer's natural perfumes. A lot has been written about it here, but probably only Annette herself could explain it exactly. An attempt: On me all smells work a rather dark, very balsamic and/or resinous, eastern spicy, without however in the direction of Arabic smells to tend, rather as inheritance of the euro-oriental smell culture (YSL Opium, Lauder Youth Dew and Cinnabar, Kenzo jungle) with strong spices (without animal dabs by Cumin; at all m.W. the animaischen accents of older tradition are missing: Cibet, Bibergeil). Praiseworthily, none of their fragrances contain animal ingredients like real civet (from civet cats) or real musk (from musk animals). Annette Neuffer has taken a clear position to look up perfume here, too, because the strange trend of small niche brands and manufacturers to increasingly resort to such fragrances again recently leads in my opinion to ethically unjustifiable excesses. Furthermore, Annette Neuffer's fragrances show that such ingredients are simply not necessary to compose an outstanding fragrance.
Havana Plum also follows the tradition described above, but develops it a little further. I like Chyprette even a little better, which is why I gave that one a 10.0, this one, Havana Plum, a 9.5. Chyprette already has an excellent commentary, so it didn't seem necessary to add anything there.
At first I was a little sceptical about Havana Plum, because although I usually like fragrances with plums, rum, dried fruit, flavoured tobacco and the like, I was never able to give them a top rating because they have too much gourmand character for me - and I don't really like that.
But Havana Plum surprised me positively throughout, because although the plum note is very strong at first, and the above-mentioned accents of rum or cognac seem to smell good, they soon become part of the typical characteristics of Neuffer fragrances: dark spicy, very dense, complex texture, a little reminiscent of a stronger opium, a sweeter youth dew (minus aldehydes), a fruitier jungle, a more present cinnabar. Havana Plum lies between all these scents in an intersection, yet in new territory, complemented by a sweet dry fruit-rum note.
In the base the fragrance develops a dark wood tone, which I do not know from the above mentioned fragrances. It still retains a certain sweetness, but becomes harsher than when first sprayed on. It reminds me of the smell of an old piece of furniture. When I open the door and smell the wood smell that has enriched the breath of two and a half centuries: very pleasant, very melancholy, a little melancholy, because you have to think of past times without ever seeming really old.
i am pleased that my 150th comment on uncommented fragrances is for a perfume by Annette Neuffer. I liked the fragrances from the very beginning, I have followed the development of the brand with great interest and so far there is no weak fragrance for me. Of course you have to like the DNA of Neuffer's natural perfumes. A lot has been written about it here, but probably only Annette herself could explain it exactly. An attempt: On me all smells work a rather dark, very balsamic and/or resinous, eastern spicy, without however in the direction of Arabic smells to tend, rather as inheritance of the euro-oriental smell culture (YSL Opium, Lauder Youth Dew and Cinnabar, Kenzo jungle) with strong spices (without animal dabs by Cumin; at all m.W. the animaischen accents of older tradition are missing: Cibet, Bibergeil). Praiseworthily, none of their fragrances contain animal ingredients like real civet (from civet cats) or real musk (from musk animals). Annette Neuffer has taken a clear position to look up perfume here, too, because the strange trend of small niche brands and manufacturers to increasingly resort to such fragrances again recently leads in my opinion to ethically unjustifiable excesses. Furthermore, Annette Neuffer's fragrances show that such ingredients are simply not necessary to compose an outstanding fragrance.
Havana Plum also follows the tradition described above, but develops it a little further. I like Chyprette even a little better, which is why I gave that one a 10.0, this one, Havana Plum, a 9.5. Chyprette already has an excellent commentary, so it didn't seem necessary to add anything there.
At first I was a little sceptical about Havana Plum, because although I usually like fragrances with plums, rum, dried fruit, flavoured tobacco and the like, I was never able to give them a top rating because they have too much gourmand character for me - and I don't really like that.
But Havana Plum surprised me positively throughout, because although the plum note is very strong at first, and the above-mentioned accents of rum or cognac seem to smell good, they soon become part of the typical characteristics of Neuffer fragrances: dark spicy, very dense, complex texture, a little reminiscent of a stronger opium, a sweeter youth dew (minus aldehydes), a fruitier jungle, a more present cinnabar. Havana Plum lies between all these scents in an intersection, yet in new territory, complemented by a sweet dry fruit-rum note.
In the base the fragrance develops a dark wood tone, which I do not know from the above mentioned fragrances. It still retains a certain sweetness, but becomes harsher than when first sprayed on. It reminds me of the smell of an old piece of furniture. When I open the door and smell the wood smell that has enriched the breath of two and a half centuries: very pleasant, very melancholy, a little melancholy, because you have to think of past times without ever seeming really old.
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