Top Notes 
Bitter orange
Cardamom
Galbanum
Green orange
Mastic
Heart Notes 
Ivy
Hyacinth
Aquatic notes
Jasmine
Base Notes 
Bourbon vetiver
Amber
Patchouli
06/29/2024
Musicandarts
224 Reviews
Musicandarts
1
Bon Parfumeur 104 - A green spicy incense scent
Bon Parfumeur 104 has been rebranded as 104 Terra Hedera at a higher price. My bottle still has the old name, 104 green orange-hyacinth-ivy (in French). This is indeed a green perfume, but it feels different from other green ‘leaf’ perfumes such as those containing fig leaf or violet leaf. The appropriate adjectives for 104 would be herbaceous, spicy, and green. This review is was initially written for a complimentary sample from vial from Bon Parfumeur, but it has been updated after I bought a full bottle. Corrine Cachen, a frequent perfumer with Bon Parfumeur is the creator of 104.
The notes listed on the website of Bon Parfumeur are galbanum, lentisk, bitter orange, cardamom, hyacinth, jasmine, aquatic accord, frankincense, patchouli, amber and vetiver. Needless to say, many of these notes are lost in the strong pungent green aura. I can detect
galbanum, lentisk (a.k.a. mastic), green citrus and cardamom. The first two are plant resins that smell very green. There is also a pepperiness in the opening, resembling the pink pepper that is seen in some other Bon Parfumeur scents. The cardamom is very vivid, which I appreciate increasingly on repeated use. The middle notes continue with the green theme, supposedly using hyacinth, ivy and jasmine. There is a floral note in the heart, but I cannot name it as jasmine. The transition from opening to middle notes is gradual and seamless. In about 6-8 hours, the green notes subside and the base notes - patchouli, amber and vetiver - appear. The base notes are nice, but mild and unremarkable.
104 is part of the Les Prives collection, with better performance than their other perfumes. It lasts on my skin for 6-8 hours before settling into a mellow dry down. The sillage is good for a few feet. You can use it safely as a work perfume, though other may assume it to be an aftershave lotion.
104 is a lovely unique perfume, but I can’t recommend it as a blind buy. The intense green notes and the ‘after-shave’ vibe make it less universally appealing. So, test it at home first. If you like the green notes, spice and incense, it is a good buy if you can get 100 ml for less than $100. I could say that this is a less brash cousin of Nuit de Bakelite. The current price listed on their website is $220 for 100 ml, though US discounters may still have a few cheaper older bottles. So far, Bon Parfumeur has not impressed me as a niche house. Their perfumes are very good, not many great ones.
The notes listed on the website of Bon Parfumeur are galbanum, lentisk, bitter orange, cardamom, hyacinth, jasmine, aquatic accord, frankincense, patchouli, amber and vetiver. Needless to say, many of these notes are lost in the strong pungent green aura. I can detect
galbanum, lentisk (a.k.a. mastic), green citrus and cardamom. The first two are plant resins that smell very green. There is also a pepperiness in the opening, resembling the pink pepper that is seen in some other Bon Parfumeur scents. The cardamom is very vivid, which I appreciate increasingly on repeated use. The middle notes continue with the green theme, supposedly using hyacinth, ivy and jasmine. There is a floral note in the heart, but I cannot name it as jasmine. The transition from opening to middle notes is gradual and seamless. In about 6-8 hours, the green notes subside and the base notes - patchouli, amber and vetiver - appear. The base notes are nice, but mild and unremarkable.
104 is part of the Les Prives collection, with better performance than their other perfumes. It lasts on my skin for 6-8 hours before settling into a mellow dry down. The sillage is good for a few feet. You can use it safely as a work perfume, though other may assume it to be an aftershave lotion.
104 is a lovely unique perfume, but I can’t recommend it as a blind buy. The intense green notes and the ‘after-shave’ vibe make it less universally appealing. So, test it at home first. If you like the green notes, spice and incense, it is a good buy if you can get 100 ml for less than $100. I could say that this is a less brash cousin of Nuit de Bakelite. The current price listed on their website is $220 for 100 ml, though US discounters may still have a few cheaper older bottles. So far, Bon Parfumeur has not impressed me as a niche house. Their perfumes are very good, not many great ones.
Kurai
