Vettiveru is, first of all, a very easy-to-categorize fragrance - CdG rarely leaves the fragrance aficionado guessing what lies behind a name. So here we have an Eau de Cologne focused on vetiver. Actually, anything but unusual; one expects such classic approaches from traditionally elegant perfume houses, while CdG is known for its out-of-the-box and sometimes avant-garde scents.
To get straight to the point: Vettiveru stays relatively true to the guidelines of a Cologne. A rather short citrusy opening quickly transitions into the main theme, which is vetiver. From this phase on, the scent remains quite linear, becoming slightly woodier towards the end. Sounds incredibly boring, right? CdG's avant-garde can be found more in other lines, but Vettiveru is certainly not a dusty old man’s scent; on the contrary, it is perhaps the most laid-back fragrance in my collection.
The scent itself is quickly described. It explores two typical variations of vetiver: on one hand, the citrusy-green variant, and on the other, the earthy one. As mentioned, Vettiveru is essentially linear; there is no conventional progression with distinct top, heart, and base notes. Nevertheless, Vettiveru is not one-dimensional, as the wonderfully sharply defined citrusy-green and the velvety-earthy vetiver alternate in quite an interesting way - I know of no other fragrance that manages to contradict the one-way street of a fragrance pyramid and revisit a previously introduced scent accord multiple times throughout its development. I find this highly unusual, as these two variations do indeed contrast with each other. Essentially, with Vettiveru, you get two fragrances in one that transition almost seamlessly while still maintaining a very balanced relationship with each other. I know this scent very well by now, yet I never know which of the two main accords will delight me when I take a sniff.
The fragrance feels very natural; not even a hint of synthetic notes can be detected. My nose picks out pepper and especially neroli in the green phases upon request, probably because I really like these two notes. In reality, the notes accompanying the vetiver are just that: a supportive accompaniment; the oscillating vetiver is the star. The shift between dark velvety and green-citrusy results in a calm, extremely pleasant, and fantastically composed fragrance that comes very close to being an all-rounder: Vettiveru is versatile, not intrusive, and surprisingly long-lasting; I have EdTs in my collection that are hopelessly inferior to Vettiveru in terms of longevity and sillage. At the same time, Vettiveru is characterful and does not risk being stuck as the umpteenth nuance of a well-known fragrance theme. As classic as the approach may be, this scent is definitely modern.
In contrast to the truly convincing quality stands the quite likable low-budget approach of Vettiveru. The Cologne series is bottled in deliberately functional and unadorned flacons. There is no packaging; ingredients, barcode, and the green dot are printed directly on the pouring bottle, and the screw-on spray head comes in a ziplock bag. Fortunately, this approach is reflected in the price, making it credible: 125ml of this little gem costs about €40, and for half a liter, you only have to pay double.
I usually only assess fragrances in relation to their price upon purchase, but in this case, I want to emphasize that Vettiveru is what one would call a "nobrainer" in the English-speaking world. The price-to-quality ratio is so striking that I truly recommend everyone to test this fragrance. Yes, it is just an EdC, but this scent only becomes a skin scent on my skin after a good five hours - assuming a Cologne-typical application, which is easily achieved with the spray head, as it is indeed very generous. People around me find Vettiveru pleasant and sometimes attractive, but never intrusive; at the same time, Vettiveru remains interesting for me as the wearer throughout the entire fragrance journey. I can hardly think of mutually exclusive occasions; this scent fits a walk in the woods just as well as a romantic date, equally suitable for a suit as for a hoodie. Frosty temperatures quickly mute Vettiveru, while a rainy summer day seems to me the perfect backdrop for this fragrance.
Vettiveru flatters the nose; however, this is not a generic office scent. This is ensured by the strong connection to nature, which, although it appears somewhat smoothed out, still convinces. This is unusual for fragrances from CdG, which often feature references to nature but almost always in contrast to urban, industrial, and synthetic notes. Vettiveru, on the other hand, is pure nature, spring-like to summery, without appearing overly romanticized or civilized. Vetiver grass possesses a naturalness that remains intact in almost any context (at least among the vetiver fragrances I know so far); in the case of Vettiveru, it stands almost entirely on its own.
Vettiveru seems so simple and straightforward, but I appreciate it when ideas are implemented without compromise. In this case: a light and modern vetiver interpretation of high quality with good longevity at an affordable price, versatile without being boring. Vettiveru is not an overly cerebral fragrance that requires much contemplation, and I believe that is indeed something that defines a good Eau de Cologne. The presentation, form of delivery, and price suggest a casual application, and it is precisely this nonchalance at a high level that is not found too often.
It's pretty cool that something like this exists.
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