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11/24/2019
Yatagan
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Yatagan
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Farewell of a Diva
Uncommented fragrances No. 141
With this comment, I expressly do not join the discussion as to whether everything used to be better. Personally, I also believe that the current market has few surprises to offer, but that one or the other pearl can be found in small manufactories in particular. I deliberately do not go into any further comments on this question, because I am not really interested in such partial discourses - only the discourse about fragrance itself.
What is certain, however, is that this fragrance, which was composed before all restrictions by IFRA standards, would probably no longer be possible today. The enormous portion of oakmoss alone, which is a must for a decent chypre, would have to give some allergy sufferers nightmares. If I correctly interpret the recent comments of Profumo, who is concerned with the return of chypres, there are now successful substitutes for this ingredient, so optimism seems appropriate. The smell of oakmoss without allergens: then the squaring of the circle would have been successful.
But here we still have to deal with an original, with a diva from past decades, a bit aged, but still as exalted in performance as before, pretentious, but still dignified. That goes together if you have the right charisma.
The oak moss, however, mixes here with rich, but not intrusive ambergris. This becomes particularly clear when you leave the scent strip for a day and 24 hours later analyze the still striking texture. Moss and amber are in balance. Even though I'm not much of an amber lover, that's how I like it. Of course, this chypre also contains the necessary floral accents of jasmine and rose, green tips are reminiscent of Vol de Nuit and should come from the galbanum (both in the appropriate dosage). I don't dare to differentiate any further. Too perfect is the overall sound.
I'm not yet sure if I can give the fragrance the highest note, because I always fight a bit with such a warm, powdery furry amber base.
Many thanks to Ergoproxy for the remaining bottle.
With this comment, I expressly do not join the discussion as to whether everything used to be better. Personally, I also believe that the current market has few surprises to offer, but that one or the other pearl can be found in small manufactories in particular. I deliberately do not go into any further comments on this question, because I am not really interested in such partial discourses - only the discourse about fragrance itself.
What is certain, however, is that this fragrance, which was composed before all restrictions by IFRA standards, would probably no longer be possible today. The enormous portion of oakmoss alone, which is a must for a decent chypre, would have to give some allergy sufferers nightmares. If I correctly interpret the recent comments of Profumo, who is concerned with the return of chypres, there are now successful substitutes for this ingredient, so optimism seems appropriate. The smell of oakmoss without allergens: then the squaring of the circle would have been successful.
But here we still have to deal with an original, with a diva from past decades, a bit aged, but still as exalted in performance as before, pretentious, but still dignified. That goes together if you have the right charisma.
The oak moss, however, mixes here with rich, but not intrusive ambergris. This becomes particularly clear when you leave the scent strip for a day and 24 hours later analyze the still striking texture. Moss and amber are in balance. Even though I'm not much of an amber lover, that's how I like it. Of course, this chypre also contains the necessary floral accents of jasmine and rose, green tips are reminiscent of Vol de Nuit and should come from the galbanum (both in the appropriate dosage). I don't dare to differentiate any further. Too perfect is the overall sound.
I'm not yet sure if I can give the fragrance the highest note, because I always fight a bit with such a warm, powdery furry amber base.
Many thanks to Ergoproxy for the remaining bottle.
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