Top Notes 
Bergamot
Galbanum
Heart Notes 
Gardenia
Jasmine
Rose
Base Notes 
Oakmoss
Sandalwood
Ambergris
Patchouli
Yatagan
96 Reviews
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Yatagan
Top Review
55
Farewell of a Diva
Uncommented Fragrances No. 141
I explicitly do not join the discussion about whether everything was better in the past. Personally, I also believe that the current market offers few surprises; on the other hand, there are indeed one or two gems to be found, especially among small manufacturers. I consciously choose not to delve further into comments on this question, as such partial discourses do not really interest me - only the discourse about fragrance itself.
However, it is clear that this fragrance, which was composed without all the restrictions imposed by IFRA standards, would not be possible today. The enormous amount of oak moss, which is essential for a proper chypre, would likely give some allergy sufferers nightmares. If I interpret the recent comments from Profumo correctly, who is dealing with the resurgence of chypres, there are now successful substitutes for this ingredient, making optimism seem appropriate. The scent of oak moss without allergens: then the square of the circle would be achieved.
Here, however, we still have an original, a diva from past decades, a little aged, but still as exultant in presence as ever, pretentious yet dignified. This can coexist if one possesses the corresponding charisma.
The oak moss blends here with rich, yet not intrusive amber. This is particularly evident when you leave the scent strip for a day and analyze the still distinctive texture 24 hours later. Here, moss and amber balance each other perfectly. Even though I am not a particular lover of amber: I like it this way. Of course, this chypre also contains the necessary floral accents of jasmine and rose, while green notes remind one of Vol de Nuit and should come from galbanum (both present in the appropriate dosage). Beyond that, I don't dare to make further distinctions. The overall harmony is too perfect.
I am still not sure if I can give the fragrance the highest rating, as I always struggle a bit with such a warm, powdery-furry amber base.
Heartfelt thanks to Ergoproxy for the remaining bottle.
I explicitly do not join the discussion about whether everything was better in the past. Personally, I also believe that the current market offers few surprises; on the other hand, there are indeed one or two gems to be found, especially among small manufacturers. I consciously choose not to delve further into comments on this question, as such partial discourses do not really interest me - only the discourse about fragrance itself.
However, it is clear that this fragrance, which was composed without all the restrictions imposed by IFRA standards, would not be possible today. The enormous amount of oak moss, which is essential for a proper chypre, would likely give some allergy sufferers nightmares. If I interpret the recent comments from Profumo correctly, who is dealing with the resurgence of chypres, there are now successful substitutes for this ingredient, making optimism seem appropriate. The scent of oak moss without allergens: then the square of the circle would be achieved.
Here, however, we still have an original, a diva from past decades, a little aged, but still as exultant in presence as ever, pretentious yet dignified. This can coexist if one possesses the corresponding charisma.
The oak moss blends here with rich, yet not intrusive amber. This is particularly evident when you leave the scent strip for a day and analyze the still distinctive texture 24 hours later. Here, moss and amber balance each other perfectly. Even though I am not a particular lover of amber: I like it this way. Of course, this chypre also contains the necessary floral accents of jasmine and rose, while green notes remind one of Vol de Nuit and should come from galbanum (both present in the appropriate dosage). Beyond that, I don't dare to make further distinctions. The overall harmony is too perfect.
I am still not sure if I can give the fragrance the highest rating, as I always struggle a bit with such a warm, powdery-furry amber base.
Heartfelt thanks to Ergoproxy for the remaining bottle.
34 Comments
