Bois d'Argent Dior 2025 Esprit de Parfum

Bois d'Argent Esprit is probably the best thing Francis Kurkdjian has done yet at Dior, though the bar was set pretty low. It is priced ridiculously, but I think this is a proper flanker to one of the most interesting of Dior's private line fragrances, Bois d'Argent Eau de Parfum. It keeps the dusty iris/incense soul while adding subtle sweetness in the form of honey. It doesn't lose the acrid smoke-machine-like character of the original which I found so intriguing as well. It's simply an improved version of a scent that desperately needed it, better longevity and sillage (though still not great), and a more complex profile.

Was able to snag a partial bottle pre release and I like it, but it’s definitely a head scratcher. It shares a lot of the appeal of the original and has a wonderful cold incense and honeyed opening, but the performance is just not there. I might be going anosmic to the ambroxan and ambergris molecules, but I genuinely couldn’t smell it after about an hour or two. Other people could smell it on me, but it’s so soft that I feel most people will be disappointed if they expect a louder version of the original. Also, can’t smell the Iris, myrrh, or the resins from the original and after the fun incense opening it settles into a boring soft musky skin scent...

TLDR: It’s good, but not worth the price

In recent years, it has become increasingly common. People are fascinated by "old money" or are triggered by it.
Even though very few truly embody what old money or quiet luxury represents, more and more people are showing interest in elegant and less ostentatious fragrance creations.

I have been a fan of quieter scents for a while now. Not only because it sets you apart in a landscape where fragrance houses fuel the trend of "performance monsters" - but also because I am often annoyed by overly strong scents. Additionally, when copious amounts of dye are mixed into fragrances to make them appear more polished. My shirts often scream for help when I apply perfume, as every dyed scent is the horror of any light fabric. Therefore, I continually search for the right creations that meet my quest.

I still remember a video from about 5 years ago, when Jeremy Flagrante referred to Reflection Man as the "Christian Gray" scent because it feels cool, elegant, and somewhat distant. I would still sign off on that today, as Reflection Man is still a wonderful and unique fragrance.

If you want to take it a step further, appear more mature, and radiate even more elegance, you should try "Bois d'Argent (Esprit de Parfum) | Dior." In this comparison, it is the Steve McQueen, the "King of Cool."
Similarly cool, but on a different level. Not through floral notes, but rather the combination of incense and powderiness. This iris from the Iris Pallida family smells super luxurious, cool, and metallic. Like a silver liquid that glides over the skin and forms a shield. The combination has a slight hint of graphite and a pencil.
As it develops, a smoky honey note joins in, which does not necessarily bring sweetness but rather this slightly waxy-sticky aroma.

It unites into a scent that appears reserved yet expressive and defined. Not flashy, not as sweet-smoky as "Bois d'Argent (Eau de Parfum) | Dior."

Whether it’s a turtleneck and chinos on a sailboat, a V-neck and pleated trousers in a '67 Ferrari 275 GTB, or in a double-breasted suit. This fragrance plays more than ever with classic appearances and modernity. A timeless scent, like the original, just even better. This is also due to the longer perception on the skin, as you can enjoy it longer yourself.

"I believe in me. I´m a little screwed up but I'm beautiful.
(Steve McQueen)

Who doesn't know that? So many sharings, so many promising notes. And not a single fragrance wants to convince. The pyramids tell of incense, iris, and vanilla. And what do I get? Hair spray made by BASF or something similar. Well, not always. With Bois d’Argent Esprit de Parfum, which I initially didn't want to test, Ambroxan grinned wickedly at me in the ingredient list, it was different.

Yesterday, I received the scent mail from dear Juliabroe. I was, of course, curious and immediately sprayed it. First just into the air and on a cotton ball. Oh yes, I liked it. I naturally tried to convince myself of disturbing notes, but after about 30 minutes, that unfortunately didn't work anymore.

And today. Today I'm wearing it, and I am, as I suspected the day before, completely taken. Yes, this one also has a leather note. Just like the original scent by Annick Menardo. However, to my nose, the sweet tones of Dior's new house perfumer Kurkdjian come a bit more to the forefront in the Esprit de Parfum. Delicate, balsamic notes reveal themselves quickly. The leather, as with Chieffos Lye, which I also have and wear with pleasure, I can only sense here. It may give the fragrance a softly elegant aura, making it perfect for a more serious appearance, but it is in no way cool or even aloof. No, this fragrance radiates a gentle warmth, as if a cozy fire were flickering somewhere. The iris also brings elegance. The honey note is very subtle. I have to strain to even perceive it; it is that gentle. And the Ambroxan? Well. To be honest? I don't smell it explicitly here. And just like that, I think, modern aroma chemicals should be used. Then it works with Ms. Polly too.

I suspect it is also the absence of patchouli in the base that makes me like this Bois d’Argent even more than its predecessor. And yes, the price is hot, uh, steep, but I fear that resistance will once again be futile. To be completely honest, it resembles Lye enormously, except for tiny nuances. But as it is with my hobby, we have already discussed that from time to time.

So, what the heck. I will probably buy it. Christmas is already greeting from the supermarket shelves. That could be a fitting occasion.

Yes, Monsieur Kurkdjian has convinced me. I may like some of his fragrances, but I have never owned one until now. This time he has perfectly matched my taste. Chapeau!

No one probably needs this fragrance if they already own the predecessor, Lye, or perhaps the discontinued Baiser de Florence by Ella K. I, for example, own two of those. Many will still want it. Just like I do.