Orange blossom
Angelica
Bitter orange
Juniper berry
Patchouli
01/27/2018
RhythmnHues
35 Reviews
RhythmnHues
Very helpful Review
4
A bitter-orange tree blooming in the garden
I'm not familiar with Olivier Pescheux's works but this perfume has to be one of his best to date. It's simply superlative! The concept here was apparently to present a full bigarade-orange tree in a garden. And this presentation is pure genius.
Citruses are difficult to work with. They've been (over)used in modern perfumery for so long now that every facet has been discovered over time and it's incredibly difficult to get any more beyond a point. So lots of perfumers these days look to other ingredients to bring out deeper or hidden facets of citruses, while trying to steer away from cliched ideas. Also adding to their woes is the fact that citrus accords are usually very short lived, hence used almost exclusively as top-notes in perfumes. Mr. Pescheux tackles these issues rather skillfully with his intelligent choice of ingredients. It's rather simple. A big dose of floral Neroli & Orange Blossom - Bitter Orange for a full bouquet of citrus aromas blended beautifully with bright, peppery, bracing juniper berries - sweet, floral and green angelica - a woody, sweet, earthy patchouli accord. Given a full-wearing this is very evocative of a blooming orange tree in a garden. I can smell the green, bitter leaves, slightly-bitter but juicy fruit, the meditative, wispy, powdery-white flowers, the soft woody smell of the bark of the tree, the damp earth beneath it. It's quite an experience.
Highly recommended if you like citrus-aromatics but with woody/floral facets. I wear it by itself mostly, but sometimes I do like to layer it with some other linear fragrances for some extra zest. Like yesterday, I layered this over Tam Dao and it was glorious! Projects big and lasts a very long time on me too - which makes it even more interesting for a citrus fragrance. Top notch stuff!
9/10
Citruses are difficult to work with. They've been (over)used in modern perfumery for so long now that every facet has been discovered over time and it's incredibly difficult to get any more beyond a point. So lots of perfumers these days look to other ingredients to bring out deeper or hidden facets of citruses, while trying to steer away from cliched ideas. Also adding to their woes is the fact that citrus accords are usually very short lived, hence used almost exclusively as top-notes in perfumes. Mr. Pescheux tackles these issues rather skillfully with his intelligent choice of ingredients. It's rather simple. A big dose of floral Neroli & Orange Blossom - Bitter Orange for a full bouquet of citrus aromas blended beautifully with bright, peppery, bracing juniper berries - sweet, floral and green angelica - a woody, sweet, earthy patchouli accord. Given a full-wearing this is very evocative of a blooming orange tree in a garden. I can smell the green, bitter leaves, slightly-bitter but juicy fruit, the meditative, wispy, powdery-white flowers, the soft woody smell of the bark of the tree, the damp earth beneath it. It's quite an experience.
Highly recommended if you like citrus-aromatics but with woody/floral facets. I wear it by itself mostly, but sometimes I do like to layer it with some other linear fragrances for some extra zest. Like yesterday, I layered this over Tam Dao and it was glorious! Projects big and lasts a very long time on me too - which makes it even more interesting for a citrus fragrance. Top notch stuff!
9/10
4 Comments
Dopeweasel
bouffant
Muralglobe
Simonexx
Elijahrb67
