Top Notes 
Cardamom
Pink pepper
Neroli
Heart Notes 
Iris
Patchouli
Peach
Base Notes 
Akigalawood®
Opoponax
Vanilla absolute
03/02/2018
jtd
484 Reviews
jtd
Very helpful Review
10
suntan
Perfume marketing tends to induce tsunami-sized eye-rolls in me, so I have a love/meh relationship with Etat Libre d'Orange. Love the perfume, cringe at the 'stories' the brand gives each of its perfumes. The scene-setting melodrama can be interesting as a side-bar, but the 'story' is irrelevant to the experience of the perfume. So when a friend recently turned me on to Une Amourette I started the odd little two-step I find myself doing with most ELDO perfumes: enjoy the perfume and just ignore the story. But the dance takes enough effort that I eventually give in, read the text and have a laugh.
I had just written some quick notes for myself that started with, "It’s a lovely, conservatively proportioned floriental. A contemporary take on a traditional genre." when I decided to take a peek at ELDO's take on Une Amourette. There designer Roland Mouret's is quoted: "Une Amourette is a no-holds-barred fragrance. It is not for everybody. It’s divisive. It will corrupt the fragrance category with its subversive positioning." Oh, for fuck's sake. Really?
Une Amourette isn't divisive or subversive in the least. But you know what? It's gorgeous. Forget corrupting categories and just dig the feel-goodness of Une Amourette--that's where this perfume hits its stride. A peppery citrus opening is the freshest, though not necessarily the brightest moment of the perfume. Matte, spicy, creamy-powdered florals illuminate the perfume from within and transfer their glow to your skin. A mineralic vanilla-almond accord forms a backdrop for the skanky white florals and reminds me of the way Bellodgia set a spicy carnation against a chewy marzipan stage curtain for maximum effect. Here the result is less powdery, more mineralic and far more modern than comparison to the old Caron perfume might imply.
The heartnotes blend into a listless olfactory image of vintage suntan lotion. The particular combo of solar florals and creamy woods actually suggest a whipped-smooth beige or khaki tone. The almond-vanilla accord reinforces the image with a matte sand or putty tint, but perfumer Andrier takes a page from Coco Chanel's book. What you notice in historical images of Chanel's collections is not the plainness of the color but the uncluttered design, the perfect drape of the fabrics, the impeccable tailoring. The difference between the perfect beige and dinginess is slim and the potentially dull ‘color palette’ of Une Amourette could have been its downfall.
Like Chanel, Andrier's manages to make the olfactory ‘color’ chic. She reassembles olfactory cues to shift from a beige hue to tanned skin, from flowers to sun tan lotion. The perfume’s easy finish and seamless transitions make it an effortless wear but don’t disguise the details. The floral accord's heavily indolic breathiness reinforces suntan lotion's implicit suggestion of parading flesh barely contained by swim trunks and bikinis. Andrier gives you skin and sun. Flirtation and exhibitionism. Skip Mouret's story of corruption and subversion. Just dig the potential of Andrier's suggestive scenario and fill in the rest for yourself.
(from scenthurdle.com)
I had just written some quick notes for myself that started with, "It’s a lovely, conservatively proportioned floriental. A contemporary take on a traditional genre." when I decided to take a peek at ELDO's take on Une Amourette. There designer Roland Mouret's is quoted: "Une Amourette is a no-holds-barred fragrance. It is not for everybody. It’s divisive. It will corrupt the fragrance category with its subversive positioning." Oh, for fuck's sake. Really?
Une Amourette isn't divisive or subversive in the least. But you know what? It's gorgeous. Forget corrupting categories and just dig the feel-goodness of Une Amourette--that's where this perfume hits its stride. A peppery citrus opening is the freshest, though not necessarily the brightest moment of the perfume. Matte, spicy, creamy-powdered florals illuminate the perfume from within and transfer their glow to your skin. A mineralic vanilla-almond accord forms a backdrop for the skanky white florals and reminds me of the way Bellodgia set a spicy carnation against a chewy marzipan stage curtain for maximum effect. Here the result is less powdery, more mineralic and far more modern than comparison to the old Caron perfume might imply.
The heartnotes blend into a listless olfactory image of vintage suntan lotion. The particular combo of solar florals and creamy woods actually suggest a whipped-smooth beige or khaki tone. The almond-vanilla accord reinforces the image with a matte sand or putty tint, but perfumer Andrier takes a page from Coco Chanel's book. What you notice in historical images of Chanel's collections is not the plainness of the color but the uncluttered design, the perfect drape of the fabrics, the impeccable tailoring. The difference between the perfect beige and dinginess is slim and the potentially dull ‘color palette’ of Une Amourette could have been its downfall.
Like Chanel, Andrier's manages to make the olfactory ‘color’ chic. She reassembles olfactory cues to shift from a beige hue to tanned skin, from flowers to sun tan lotion. The perfume’s easy finish and seamless transitions make it an effortless wear but don’t disguise the details. The floral accord's heavily indolic breathiness reinforces suntan lotion's implicit suggestion of parading flesh barely contained by swim trunks and bikinis. Andrier gives you skin and sun. Flirtation and exhibitionism. Skip Mouret's story of corruption and subversion. Just dig the potential of Andrier's suggestive scenario and fill in the rest for yourself.
(from scenthurdle.com)
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