Guerlain kills my Summer Darlings
Beyond the light, quickly fading colognes, it is not easy to find really good summer scents for men. What seems to me to apply to the broad market probably also applies to one of the oldest and most venerable houses: Guerlain.
For the winter, the choice of different, exquisite fragrances is truly great here - just think of Habit Rouge and its more contemporary and wearable flankers, the wonderfully warming L'Instant pour l'homme and - depending on the old-fashioned or newer gourmet nose - also Heritage or some versions of the Homme-Ideal almond flatterer.
It becomes more difficult for the warm, even hot season. Of course, one can resort to the very light Guerlain Colognes (for example the wonderful Eau de Cologne Imperial available since 1854). Or you can use the Aqua Allegorias, which fluctuate between ladies' and unisex and are often tastefully appropriate to their theme. But in the actual men's segment it gets close to the market chief from Paris. For my taste, the most beautiful summer perfume is the eau boisée: finely woody, elegantly floating on that moijoto accord that was first presented in the original Guerlain Homme EdT.
With some delay and after frequent Thierry water bashing, some of the finest noses and fairest writers here (read about Schoork, Defcon Schatzsucher and FabianO - all of them in the Guerlain Homme EdP thread! The EdT is a well mixed Guerlain level Moijto chord of white rum, light sweetness, subtle mint, stored on a finely dimmed, summery bed of vetiver and woods. I hardly notice that there is tea floating in the middle of the bed, but as a tea lover I'm not surprised either. The whole thing doesn't go through a big development, but it appears round and balanced from beginning to end, nothing stands out, at most a slightly alcoholic fresh vibe at the very beginning.
The fragrance seems a bit more urban to me compared to the somehow more nature- and south-orientated Eau Boisée. In my opinion, it goes better with an evening at the theatre or a cocktail party than with a walk through bushes and woods or to the beach (instead: eau boisée). I find the origin EdT to be more youthful, reckless or exuberant compared to the eau boisée. But also far beyond youth I like to wear these two light and pleasing summer-hommes, which are rarely disturbing even for those who are enemies of scent.
Unfortunately, Guerlain is now discontinuing this EdT (as it were the Eau boisée without the cedar or Iso E Super wood). And apparently the beautiful almond and grapefruit cologne of the Homme Idéal series will also be discontinued. The remaining summer scents of the Idealmann series (Cool and Sport), I found, like many here, far less balanced composition than the Homme Ideal Cologne. Probably it's not so much alleged loss of taste in the house of Guerlain, but rather market demand and LVMH's in-house controlling that will now transport two of my summer favourites into the great realm of past fragrances.
The good news is that the Eau Boisée and the slightly more autumnal, darker, vetiver-earthy Guerlain Homme EdP are still being produced. So even after saying goodbye to Homme Ideal Cologne and the light and palatable Guerlain Homme EdT, there's no need to walk naked through the summer