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Gilded Lily 2010

6.9 / 10 63 Ratings
A perfume by Ineke for women, released in 2010. The scent is floral-fruity. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Floral
Fruity
Spicy
Green
Sweet

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
Elemi resinElemi resin GrapefruitGrapefruit PineapplePineapple RhubarbRhubarb
Heart Notes Heart Notes
Lilium auratum
Base Notes Base Notes
LabdanumLabdanum OakmossOakmoss PatchouliPatchouli

Perfumer

Ratings
Scent
6.963 Ratings
Longevity
7.052 Ratings
Sillage
6.346 Ratings
Bottle
7.558 Ratings
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 03/24/2025.

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Reviews

10 in-depth fragrance descriptions
BigGromus

11 Reviews
BigGromus
BigGromus
Top Review 22  
Gilded Lily
Odd. I don't smell lyrol or any of the other common ingredients that make that round green almost-aquatic smell that usually passes for lily in lily perfumes. To me, Gilded Lily is more of a chypre: spicy, tart, and a pich aldehydic on top with a sort of flowery, powdery, almost-suede core and a very traditional straight-from-the-70's green chypre base. That being said, it smells modern, with what I'm guessing is some pink pepper/bay rose in there to give it a more common appeal.

A lot has been said about the term "modern chypre", and it's been very over-applied to all sorts of garbage that's not even remotely chypre-related. As such, I'd like to nominate Gilded Lily for the representative of a true modern chypre. It keeps the traditional ingredients intact while still bringing it up to date.
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Sherapop

1240 Reviews
Sherapop
Sherapop
Very helpful Review 2  
The Best Fruity Chypre Since Unreformulated Mitsouko
Ineke Gilded Lily is a splendid representative of a perfume genre currently in decline: the classic fruity chypre. The most famous member of this class of perfumes, Guerlain Mitsouko, has been reformulated so as to be a mere shadow of its former self. Other members of this class include Yves Saint Laurent Yvresse, which is still around and in good shape; and Rochas Femme, which was reformulated but has managed to keep its integrity in tact, at least as far as I'm concerned (there is some debate about this, however).

The current, far more common, "modern chypre" category is filled with perfumes featuring above all patchouli and at least a modicum of sweetness, but still enough of the classic chypre elements to make the name seem acceptably accurate. With Gilded Lily, Ineke has managed to create a fruity chypre in the classic tradition, albeit apparently without violating any of the IFRA restrictions cited as the cause for so many reformulations of once classic perfumes.

The oakmoss and patchouli are woven together into the characteristic mesh texture unique to chypre perfumes, and the rich fruits here (though I cannot claim to be able to identify them individually) offer a perfect counterbalance to the dark lily flower. Although it was launched only in 2010, Gilded Lily amazingly captures the beauty of fruity chypres in the grand tradition, and I was at once relieved and delighted to have discovered the existence of this excellent perfume.

I completely love this composition, which has great longevity and fairly big sillage. Gilded Lily comes in a beautiful red bottle with black and gold accents, is topped with an attractive matte black cap, and is housed in an equally appealing box. Every time I get depressed about reformulations, I reach for Ineke Gilded Lily as reminder that all is not lost, and that great perfume is still being made today.

It goes without saying that those who dislike the aesthetic of classic chypre perfumes such as Mitsouko need not apply. But for fruity chypre lovers, Gilded Lily is a winner!
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Tessa

83 Reviews
Tessa
Tessa
Helpful Review 2  
Unusual patchouli
The charm of this chypre resides in the fact all its notes come out at the same time, at the beginning like an explosion of fruit,flowers, labdanum,patchouli,oakmoss.Shocking!
My impression is that the patchouli sets down and absorbs the other notes and then-and this is fantastic-it releases them one by one. A dominant is the pineapple. But the thick scent of the lily inches out and then here comes the pineapple again and so on and so forth. Wonderful.
Shall I mention the longevity? Great.
0 Comments
8Scent
Flavorite

241 Reviews
Flavorite
Flavorite
Helpful Review 1  
Turn Coat!
Interesting metamorphosis. I was initial repulsed by the fruity top notes and solid projection- which many people find so appealing in modern fragrance-werk. But now that it has dried down I am back at my tester and very pleased to find a sumptuous fresh patchouli that even I (not a patchouli fan) can wear. This would make a fantastic day scent for Spring and Summer for a man or woman or anything in-between. It has some commonality with my old friend 'Eau Dynamisante' Deodorant by Clarins...a true life saver in the heat of the Summer! This would make a lovely layer over top of that one for sure. The fruity bits dissipate and leave a strong fresh resinous base of good quality Oakmoss, that probably melds well with most people's chemistry. I may invest in a full bottle- since the bottle is OMG- freakin' gorgeous!!!
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First

232 Reviews
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First
First
Top Review 13  
Play it again, Mrs. Rühland!
When I used to buy a CD or vinyl record, I would listen to it intensely and with full enthusiasm as soon as I got home, the first and second time. And in my spontaneous assessment, I found that piece X was the best. I thought so even after the third and fourth listen. But then, around the tenth listen, I noticed that I also really liked song Y. Suddenly, piece Z was particularly great as well. The more I indulged in song Y, the better I found it. It went so far that it eventually replaced piece X in the number one spot. And after half a year, I wondered how I could have thought piece X was the best at the beginning, because now it seemed boring to me. Suddenly, song Y and a few others were much better than piece X.

Perhaps you know this too, and we probably all understand how this phenomenon arises: piece X is simply easier and more accessible, while song Y and Z initially seem more complex, only revealing their true beauty and complexity over time.

Long story short: Gilded Lily is a typical song Y for me.
I have just increased my rating of Gilded Lily to 8.0. And I wouldn’t rule out that this number might rise further over the next few months.

I liked Gilded Lily from the very beginning. And I also wrote a positive statement after the first tests. I even bought a bottle. And I wore the fragrance. I liked the floral transparency, which is both very unusual and yet has the typical characteristics of some Ineke scents, reminding me of real flowers in a vase with a hint of floral water. As if the blossoms were just about to tip into wilting.
Even though the scent of wilting is not exactly my perfume dream, a little bit of it does convey the impression that these are real flowers, alive, from the world of nature and not from the world of the lab. Of course, Ineke scents are also from the lab, but these particular ones don’t seem that way.

Interestingly, I find it very difficult to break down Gilded Lily by its components. I wouldn’t have guessed pineapple, rhubarb, or grapefruit.
Starting off slightly citrusy and bitter, which reminds me of the peel of a citrus fruit, Gilded Lily begins right away with an undertone of lily. Then I smell something grassy, green, just subtle, as if there were still grasses in the vase with the lush lilies, along with other flowers that smell sweet - mild, as sweet as natural scents, perhaps like phlox, not like sugar or maltol, nor like honey.
Already, the elemih resin makes its presence known, giving Gilded Lily its greenness as well as depth, spice, and minimal warmth. After a few minutes, the floral water note joins in. The bitterness of the citrus peels from the beginning remains, as does the slight freshness of grasses and the lily scent. Oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum are only mildly present and blend into a soft unity that gently grounds the fragrance without losing the floral, slightly green, and somewhat sweet-bitter character. Over time, Gilded Lily changes only very slightly towards more spice and a bit more sweetness. Overall, this extraordinary floral arrangement in the vase lasts about 5 to 6 hours, although it becomes noticeably weaker in the last two hours.

Gilded Lily is definitely not a crowd-pleaser; it has too many characteristics known to turn people off fragrances, starting with the lily scent, the green undertone, and the slight bitterness to the hint of sweet, aging floral water.

Nevertheless, an incomparably fine and balanced fragrance experience unfolds: light and interesting. What I also find very pleasant is: If someone told me that Gilded Lily was made exclusively with one hundred percent natural essential oils, extracts, and resins, I would believe it immediately. Despite its slight quirkiness, Gilded Lily doesn’t have the underlying exhausting quality that often starts to get on my nerves with fragrances containing many synthetic ingredients after a while. With Gilded Lily, I can simply feel natural and relaxed without getting bored.

I didn’t wear Gilded Lily in winter; I preferred denser, heavier fragrances. Two or three weeks ago, I started using it more again in spring and considered dedicating a whole comment to this beautiful scent. Then I saw that I had rated it, obviously song Y, only 7.0. I had given Evening edged in Gold, my song X from the same brand, a 9.0.
That had to be adjusted!

Maybe I should play my Ineke fragrance record again and listen to song A, B, C... many more times. For some, this might also lead to a reassessment. But for others, it’s like with records and CDs: the pieces you don’t like won’t get better with repeated listening.
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Statements

6 short views on the fragrance
22
Reminds me of Donna Karan's Gold. Yeah very nice lily, that expected pepperiness of other lily fragrances.
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6
Unfortunately, grapefruit and rhubarb are buried under lily scents. Only the pineapple keeps rising again and balances beautifully.
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3
Starts warm and "pineapple-like": Softly fruity with a certain freshness. Becomes balsamic with sweet undertones - a matte pineapple finish. Ineke favorite.
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3
Delicate, but not shy; without herbs and without powder; unusual, but not bulky. Floral, without being a floral scent.
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9 years ago
The mentioned similarity to Chanel No 5 lies for me in the slight animalistic note that both fragrances have.
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9 years ago
Pineapple. Yeah... but first old musty book, then a forest walk in the morning dew. Lots of lily, lots of moss and green, very lasting. Easily 10h+
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