Incense
Black tea
Camphor
Champaca
Myrrh
Patchouli
Amber
Clove
Vetiver
Aldehydes
Australian sandalwood
Benzoin
Ebony
Opoponax
Styrax
Teakwood
Cinnamon
Coriander seed
Cumin
Gun powder
Jasmine absolute
Moss
Papyrus
04/11/2025
Sugandaraja
26 Reviews
Sugandaraja
1
An Olfactory Labyrinth
This fragrance opens with a whirl of incense: both frankincense, and a heady nag champa stick accord, smoky, dense, and sweet. After about an hour of this on my skin, the smoke recedes, and the notes become fatty and floral, a white floral accord (I get an unlisted tuberose) made woody and richly resinous (sandalwood, opopnax, styrax, benzoin and myrrh are prominent). It’s subtle, but there is a hint of clove-adjacent brown spices, salty herbs, cumin, and a leathery quality styrax so often adds.This phase seems to last all day and into the next, only the very dregs of Ayutthaya becoming soft, powdery, and smooth.
It’s hard to find a direct sibling outside the Prissana line: there are phases that remind me of Serge Lutens’ Ambre Sultan and Cuir Mauresque, and the florals aren’t hugely removed from Cacharel’s Lulu. Within the line, it’s a fragrance in conversation with Karuna’s herbal myrrh and Ma Nishtana’s leathery incense as the warm and sweet sister of the crew.
Ayutthaya is a complex fragrance that really rewards repeat visits. There are days it’s tooth-achingly sweet; days that it’s smoky and dry, and its maximalist note-list helps give it a lasting interest and a shapeshifting personality. I had to wear this one a few times over a few different weeks to really get a firm grasp on its character.
It’s hard to find a direct sibling outside the Prissana line: there are phases that remind me of Serge Lutens’ Ambre Sultan and Cuir Mauresque, and the florals aren’t hugely removed from Cacharel’s Lulu. Within the line, it’s a fragrance in conversation with Karuna’s herbal myrrh and Ma Nishtana’s leathery incense as the warm and sweet sister of the crew.
Ayutthaya is a complex fragrance that really rewards repeat visits. There are days it’s tooth-achingly sweet; days that it’s smoky and dry, and its maximalist note-list helps give it a lasting interest and a shapeshifting personality. I had to wear this one a few times over a few different weeks to really get a firm grasp on its character.
Updated on 04/11/2025
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