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The Burden of the Old Name
Most of the younger creations from this British traditional house are not well-received on Parfumo by designated friends of old English nobility: Too arbitrary, too contemporary, too flashy, so the accusation goes - and this is not only the case with the affected animal-head bottle series with the amusing, long names. This is likely the fate of Marylebone Wood as well, because on the surface, we are indeed dealing with a fragrance that draws its presence from a very modern woodiness and groups all other scent impressions around it. But let's take it step by step.
In the statements, Marylebone Wood is so often compared to Black Afgano that one might think of a dupe. I can't judge, as I've avoided this radical neo-classic so far, since "higher, faster, further" as a unique selling point does not interest me in perfumes, and I would rather not have to sandblast myself to be able to wear another perfume the next day. Besides, I am much more interested in other things. In short: I can review this fragrance without bias. Also nice! Sandblasting is, however, not necessary with this pseudo-dupe at all: The longevity is quite decent, but after ten to twelve hours, it's definitely game over.
In the opening, I am presented with a freshly cut or whipped sandalwood-grapefruit. Citrus and sandalwood? Well, there you go! It hardly gets more English than this! But wait, it’s true: Something is different. On the one hand, the fact that grapefruit is the citrus fruit that appears most frequently in modern fragrance pyramids. On the other hand, the two scent notes are "forced into marriage" by a sweet amber mist, which also shifts the overall impression towards "here and now and unisex." Furthermore - please don’t yawn, not even in the back row! - the woodiness in the scent progression gradually shifts towards an oudy direction, even though it is not listed. After two hours, a slight, medicinal prick can already be detected, which, however (e.g., in comparison to A.d.P.'s "Colonia Oud"), only shows its prickly peaks gently. Hedgehog instead of porcupine.
This finding can be applied to Marylebone Wood as a whole: Despite all its modernity, it lives off a restrained composition with a sense of proportion and a related permeability and transparency that can be described on a more metaphorical level as "British." I understand the aversion of the classic faction (to which I belong), who would hope for a contemporary update of the eternally valid and wonderful from Old Albion rather than an Anglicization of what is already smelled at every corner. I wish for that too, especially since this representative, despite all its appeal, is objectively not a great hit. But would I recommend a friend, who is currently still dousing himself with 08/15 Eau de Sägewerk, a noticeably nobler approach to the topic of "Hip Wood": Why not Marylebone Wood?
In the statements, Marylebone Wood is so often compared to Black Afgano that one might think of a dupe. I can't judge, as I've avoided this radical neo-classic so far, since "higher, faster, further" as a unique selling point does not interest me in perfumes, and I would rather not have to sandblast myself to be able to wear another perfume the next day. Besides, I am much more interested in other things. In short: I can review this fragrance without bias. Also nice! Sandblasting is, however, not necessary with this pseudo-dupe at all: The longevity is quite decent, but after ten to twelve hours, it's definitely game over.
In the opening, I am presented with a freshly cut or whipped sandalwood-grapefruit. Citrus and sandalwood? Well, there you go! It hardly gets more English than this! But wait, it’s true: Something is different. On the one hand, the fact that grapefruit is the citrus fruit that appears most frequently in modern fragrance pyramids. On the other hand, the two scent notes are "forced into marriage" by a sweet amber mist, which also shifts the overall impression towards "here and now and unisex." Furthermore - please don’t yawn, not even in the back row! - the woodiness in the scent progression gradually shifts towards an oudy direction, even though it is not listed. After two hours, a slight, medicinal prick can already be detected, which, however (e.g., in comparison to A.d.P.'s "Colonia Oud"), only shows its prickly peaks gently. Hedgehog instead of porcupine.
This finding can be applied to Marylebone Wood as a whole: Despite all its modernity, it lives off a restrained composition with a sense of proportion and a related permeability and transparency that can be described on a more metaphorical level as "British." I understand the aversion of the classic faction (to which I belong), who would hope for a contemporary update of the eternally valid and wonderful from Old Albion rather than an Anglicization of what is already smelled at every corner. I wish for that too, especially since this representative, despite all its appeal, is objectively not a great hit. But would I recommend a friend, who is currently still dousing himself with 08/15 Eau de Sägewerk, a noticeably nobler approach to the topic of "Hip Wood": Why not Marylebone Wood?
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