11/08/2018
Achilles
3 Reviews
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Achilles
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Fruit fuel paradox
Certain concentrations and combinations of fragrances are well suited to evoke associations, and I am always sensitive to ideas of fragrances such as petrol, oils, varnishes and lubricants. PG's latest creation is intended to convey the idea, or invite you on an olfactory journey with him to his father's workshop with vintage cars and the memory of "dirty engine grease", which he calls "engine sweat".
In direct comparison to original fragrances, which are to be chopped up in such concept fragrances, everything always smells completely different or a fragrance only partially manages to hit notes accurately. The note, or idea, of engine oil is definitely to be found, although not as "engine sweat".
The top note is directly bitter, very fresh, very masculine, but by no means mainstream, what you could think (Aventus etc.).
The whole concept is underlined by this high dose of blackcurrant with a load of mandarin, which is well suited for it, because one can read workshop associations in statements with very many scents with this note, or scents contain them above average often.
What at first sounds paradoxical is actually true.
Through very long research and inquiries I was able to find out that there is a correlation between scents with recurring notes and people who can detect associations of kerosene, turpentine, petrol, etc. in such scents, WITHOUT an idea like the one here existing in advance. It is very often the case that fragrances are "prejudgeled" and that one searches desperately for the same associations on the basis of statements already made. To put it plainly, 100 people write they smell gasoline in Fahrenheit. The 101st will expect to smell there too, influenced by perceptions of others. But can only make out cucumber and violet and leather at the highest level, like me. Can be a part of influence, another lack of research, but you can't blame anyone.
This "fruit/fuel paradox" can be found, for example, in Diesel Fuel for Femme, in which many fuels are petrol, or Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune, which produces grapefruit-stripping notes and, conversely, is reminiscent of nail polish remover, petrol or turpentine. I can understand it, but - there is no greasy, dirty note everywhere, which Mecanique has again - without smelling of petrol. You might have to lay them out.
Very often rose and oud or a combination of both smell like this, also leather, rubber etc.
Here however the component engine oil is definitely prominent, fresh cold, well stored, none with which a machine has already worked. Who expects a drone of exhaust gases / Exhaust Fuel here, will be disappointed. You have to like the characteristic smell of cold oil to wear it. "Engine sweat" freezes, you could say.
Due to its properties as a refined petroleum product, fuel has characteristic, greasy crude oil components that are unmistakable. PG manages to create these only in the field of motor oil, it all smells like a cold mineral oil distillate with currant garnish. This "Grease" note is achieved not least by aldehydes, I suppose. Except for the powerful top note, there is no noteworthy course, except for a direct dull fall into a seductive musk bed with a few scented cushions, which remains so for hours.
If you don't like musk or if you get along well with it, you will have difficulties here as well, because the scent is not only mechanical but also pure attractant, where we would be at desir, that's first class. Thus, the fragrance is a successful interpretation of seduction without the usual or expected ingredients or associations.
Musk is here velvety, fast omnipotent, one cannot defend oneself rudimentary. In addition, there is a piquant resemblance to Nasomatto's Nudiflorum, unmistakably Angelica, bitingly woody, bitterly sweet, but attractive, without jasmine anesthesia. This is underlined by the violet leaf, which smells as if it had been cut out of Fahrenheit, no violet pastill fragrance, luckily.
All in all, the idea is well implemented and the mixture of workshop and seduction is interpreted in a strangely harmonious way. But for my understanding and taste - necessary components or aspects of screwing on cars, like entering a garage, plastic, dust, fuel scent, solvents etc. are missing.
Understandably, this is a special preference, and PG had to make sure that the whole thing sold itself, which made it more mass-compatible and played it safe.
In direct comparison to original fragrances, which are to be chopped up in such concept fragrances, everything always smells completely different or a fragrance only partially manages to hit notes accurately. The note, or idea, of engine oil is definitely to be found, although not as "engine sweat".
The top note is directly bitter, very fresh, very masculine, but by no means mainstream, what you could think (Aventus etc.).
The whole concept is underlined by this high dose of blackcurrant with a load of mandarin, which is well suited for it, because one can read workshop associations in statements with very many scents with this note, or scents contain them above average often.
What at first sounds paradoxical is actually true.
Through very long research and inquiries I was able to find out that there is a correlation between scents with recurring notes and people who can detect associations of kerosene, turpentine, petrol, etc. in such scents, WITHOUT an idea like the one here existing in advance. It is very often the case that fragrances are "prejudgeled" and that one searches desperately for the same associations on the basis of statements already made. To put it plainly, 100 people write they smell gasoline in Fahrenheit. The 101st will expect to smell there too, influenced by perceptions of others. But can only make out cucumber and violet and leather at the highest level, like me. Can be a part of influence, another lack of research, but you can't blame anyone.
This "fruit/fuel paradox" can be found, for example, in Diesel Fuel for Femme, in which many fuels are petrol, or Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune, which produces grapefruit-stripping notes and, conversely, is reminiscent of nail polish remover, petrol or turpentine. I can understand it, but - there is no greasy, dirty note everywhere, which Mecanique has again - without smelling of petrol. You might have to lay them out.
Very often rose and oud or a combination of both smell like this, also leather, rubber etc.
Here however the component engine oil is definitely prominent, fresh cold, well stored, none with which a machine has already worked. Who expects a drone of exhaust gases / Exhaust Fuel here, will be disappointed. You have to like the characteristic smell of cold oil to wear it. "Engine sweat" freezes, you could say.
Due to its properties as a refined petroleum product, fuel has characteristic, greasy crude oil components that are unmistakable. PG manages to create these only in the field of motor oil, it all smells like a cold mineral oil distillate with currant garnish. This "Grease" note is achieved not least by aldehydes, I suppose. Except for the powerful top note, there is no noteworthy course, except for a direct dull fall into a seductive musk bed with a few scented cushions, which remains so for hours.
If you don't like musk or if you get along well with it, you will have difficulties here as well, because the scent is not only mechanical but also pure attractant, where we would be at desir, that's first class. Thus, the fragrance is a successful interpretation of seduction without the usual or expected ingredients or associations.
Musk is here velvety, fast omnipotent, one cannot defend oneself rudimentary. In addition, there is a piquant resemblance to Nasomatto's Nudiflorum, unmistakably Angelica, bitingly woody, bitterly sweet, but attractive, without jasmine anesthesia. This is underlined by the violet leaf, which smells as if it had been cut out of Fahrenheit, no violet pastill fragrance, luckily.
All in all, the idea is well implemented and the mixture of workshop and seduction is interpreted in a strangely harmonious way. But for my understanding and taste - necessary components or aspects of screwing on cars, like entering a garage, plastic, dust, fuel scent, solvents etc. are missing.
Understandably, this is a special preference, and PG had to make sure that the whole thing sold itself, which made it more mass-compatible and played it safe.
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