
MrGaunt
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MrGaunt
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Feel-Good Fragrance with Niche Ambition
Tiziana Terenzi has an impressive pace when it comes to introducing new fragrances across various lines and price categories. Despite the large number of scents, the quality does not seem to suffer, at least with the fragrances I’ve had the chance to experience. Of course, not everything is to my taste, but the quality is right.
With "Draconis" and "Arrakis," two fragrances from the crisp and expensive Luna Gold Collection are now included. Both are stars from the constellation of the dragon, with Arrakis also being the fictional desert planet from the Dune cycles for cinema lovers. However, the Terenzis do not refer to the latter.
Now to the scent:
It opens with a citrus-medical cloud, where the citrus fruits are not individually identifiable. Not very lemony, but also not extremely bitter. So, well blended. I think bergamot plays the main role, supported by the rest. Alongside the citrus fruits, a saffron-oud combination takes on the second main role of the top note, leaning more towards the medicinal type of oud. Even though oud is not listed in the top notes, I can definitely sense it. For the untrained nose, this might be a bit harsh, but niche perfume enthusiasts will enjoy it.
The top note recedes, and the heart quickly comes in with a hefty amount of marzipan. Not exactly subtle, but very delicious. The sweetness is fortunately not too sticky, but rather good quality marzipan. This quality marzipan is supported by remnants of the fruits from the top note, along with slightly bitter undertones that I attribute to the also rather supporting woods. This marzipan heart lasts quite a long time, around 2-3 hours, and forms an important pillar for the feel-good aspect of the fragrance. Apparently, the supposedly only present tonka bean in the heart note has sneaked forward a bit earlier and quite noticeably, creating a really beautiful marzipan combination with the resinous woods.
Now one could be satisfied with this situation, as it lasts quite a while for me. In my mind, the fragrance was already mentally categorized when it surprises me with what I find to be a rather late base note. This then also comes unusually suddenly, as base notes usually tend to creep in slowly. The marzipan recedes - though not entirely - and gives way to leather and tobacco. The tobacco should have already shown itself in the heart, but I find it comes rather late. For me, leather also comes into play, even though it is not listed in the notes. Thus, the heart forms a very warm and slightly sweet fragrance combination dominated by tobacco and leather, which is a nice continuation of the also pleasant but somewhat louder heart marzipan. Amber certainly plays a diligent supporting role as well.
A very beautiful fragrance that has surprised me a bit with its development towards the end. Up to the heart, it is somewhat louder and (non-sticky) sweeter, which might appeal a bit more to the ladies. The base note is almost a bit masculine with the leathery tobacco. Even though I have mentioned marzipan several times, the fragrance is not squeaky-sweet but truly good marzipan. Marzipan fans will know what I’m talking about.
However, this fragrance should only be used by those who have no issue with tonka. Without tonka, there would be no quality marzipan here, and the diligent tonka bean also takes care of the residual sweetness in the base. Oud in its slightly medicinal variant is also present here, but for me, aside from the initial top note clouds, it plays a rather subdued supporting role and is not in the foreground. So, no panic for those who do not like oud.
For me, a candidate for purchase as a great feel-good fragrance, modestly dosed in the base, possibly even suitable for work. The notes come across somewhat differently in timing than indicated in the pyramid, but as they come, they work wonderfully.
With "Draconis" and "Arrakis," two fragrances from the crisp and expensive Luna Gold Collection are now included. Both are stars from the constellation of the dragon, with Arrakis also being the fictional desert planet from the Dune cycles for cinema lovers. However, the Terenzis do not refer to the latter.
Now to the scent:
It opens with a citrus-medical cloud, where the citrus fruits are not individually identifiable. Not very lemony, but also not extremely bitter. So, well blended. I think bergamot plays the main role, supported by the rest. Alongside the citrus fruits, a saffron-oud combination takes on the second main role of the top note, leaning more towards the medicinal type of oud. Even though oud is not listed in the top notes, I can definitely sense it. For the untrained nose, this might be a bit harsh, but niche perfume enthusiasts will enjoy it.
The top note recedes, and the heart quickly comes in with a hefty amount of marzipan. Not exactly subtle, but very delicious. The sweetness is fortunately not too sticky, but rather good quality marzipan. This quality marzipan is supported by remnants of the fruits from the top note, along with slightly bitter undertones that I attribute to the also rather supporting woods. This marzipan heart lasts quite a long time, around 2-3 hours, and forms an important pillar for the feel-good aspect of the fragrance. Apparently, the supposedly only present tonka bean in the heart note has sneaked forward a bit earlier and quite noticeably, creating a really beautiful marzipan combination with the resinous woods.
Now one could be satisfied with this situation, as it lasts quite a while for me. In my mind, the fragrance was already mentally categorized when it surprises me with what I find to be a rather late base note. This then also comes unusually suddenly, as base notes usually tend to creep in slowly. The marzipan recedes - though not entirely - and gives way to leather and tobacco. The tobacco should have already shown itself in the heart, but I find it comes rather late. For me, leather also comes into play, even though it is not listed in the notes. Thus, the heart forms a very warm and slightly sweet fragrance combination dominated by tobacco and leather, which is a nice continuation of the also pleasant but somewhat louder heart marzipan. Amber certainly plays a diligent supporting role as well.
A very beautiful fragrance that has surprised me a bit with its development towards the end. Up to the heart, it is somewhat louder and (non-sticky) sweeter, which might appeal a bit more to the ladies. The base note is almost a bit masculine with the leathery tobacco. Even though I have mentioned marzipan several times, the fragrance is not squeaky-sweet but truly good marzipan. Marzipan fans will know what I’m talking about.
However, this fragrance should only be used by those who have no issue with tonka. Without tonka, there would be no quality marzipan here, and the diligent tonka bean also takes care of the residual sweetness in the base. Oud in its slightly medicinal variant is also present here, but for me, aside from the initial top note clouds, it plays a rather subdued supporting role and is not in the foreground. So, no panic for those who do not like oud.
For me, a candidate for purchase as a great feel-good fragrance, modestly dosed in the base, possibly even suitable for work. The notes come across somewhat differently in timing than indicated in the pyramid, but as they come, they work wonderfully.
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