As a fan of the (then still dark blue) Costa Azzura EDP, I couldn't resist buying a bottle of the new Costa Azzura Parfum blindly upon its release. Since the (dark blue) Costa Azzura EDP from the Private Blend Collection is hardly available anymore, I got a sample of the current Costa Azzura EDP to make a direct and fair comparison.
Without much ado, I want to dive straight into the comparison because: The day was long and I am tired.
Both fragrances were tested today on a sunny day with maximum temperatures of 22.5 degrees. The EDP was sprayed on the right and the Parfum on the left forearm, comparing top, heart, and base notes.
TOP NOTE:
EDP: The EDP opens very zesty, citrusy, and fresh. I can hardly pick out the individual notes, but the overall impression is very bright, lively, and yet - probably thanks to the seaweed - somewhat “distinctive.” By that, I don’t mean “strange,” but rather that the fragrance has character, stands out, and definitely differentiates itself from the crowd. Particularly through the cardamom, the fragrance acquires a cool, distant vibe that shines beautifully in summer in combination with the zesty citrus notes and the seaweed.
Parfum: The new Parfum opens much “punchier” and more intense. To put it another way: IN YOUR FACE. The Italian lemon is wonderfully realized, where you not only experience the citrusy-intense notes of the flesh but also the bitter oil extracts from the lemon peel in the opening. This alone makes the fragrance in the opening much more robust and darker than the EDP. Additionally, woody notes join in the opening, which have something very dark, heavy, and mystical about them. The TOP NOTE is overall stronger, louder, and more intense than with the EDP.
HEART NOTE:
EDP: Here, the brightness and refreshment of the citrusy-spritzig notes with the seaweed and cardamom are now joined by lemon and mandarin. Although in this version the citrus-fresh flesh is predominantly highlighted, there is still a slightly bitter vibe from the peel that occasionally comes through. However, this remains limited and never dominates the freshness. The juniper berries give the fragrance a slight gin vibe, which complements the freshness with a resinous-sweet and slightly spicy note. The basil adds an unexpectedly Mediterranean twist, and the lavender beautifully rounds off the entire fragrance, never dominating but providing a sense of calm and relaxation.
Parfum: The herb-bitter citrus and the dark, heavy woods are now joined by cypress, which shares a commonality with the juniper berry: Both the juniper bush and the cypress are conifers and belong to the cypress family. Unlike the EDP, the note of cypress in the Parfum is less resinous-sweet, instead providing a very green, fresh, penetrating, and spicy vibe with a very woody and earthy undertone. Furthermore, the cypress in the Parfum brings a balsamic vibe that makes the fragrance appear fresh, but also very robust and masculine in combination with the other notes. Relatively parallel, the rockrose also joins in, giving the fragrance a beautiful Mediterranean aroma reminiscent of overripe pine needles. Even in the HEART NOTE, the fragrance is very intense and present, appearing somewhat sharper and more robust.
BASE NOTE:
EDP: In the base note, the EDP becomes rather quiet, although it never completely fades away. The citrus notes receive another push, the incense unfolds and gives the fragrance a certain coolness that I associate with an old Baroque church on a hot day in Tuscany, and the vetiver provides a slightly earthy vibe with a woody character. Unexpectedly, vanilla joins in relatively late, but it is to be understood as very restrained. The vanilla contributes less to the aroma than to a beautiful creaminess in the “finish” of the fragrance, thus giving the EDP a wonderful balance and beauty after an impressively great fragrance journey.
Parfum: The aforementioned notes of the Parfum remain largely linear until the end. While the EDP repeatedly introduces another (and sometimes unexpected) note, the Parfum is more straightforward, sharper, and more distinctive. It is therefore not surprising that the fragrance progression remains relatively consistent from start to finish, the intensity remains consistently strong, and the Parfum primarily impresses with deep, mystical, and dark notes. At the very end, a calming amber joins in, which slightly “softens” the otherwise robust and distinctive fragrance. However, this does not mean that the fragrance appears disharmonious at any point. The harmony focuses - unlike the EDP - not on pleasing everyone, but rather follows its own, very individual path.
LONGEVITY:
EDP: For a summer fragrance, it’s okay. On me, it lasted about 6 hours today, at 22.5 degrees and constant sunshine, with the first hour being very noticeable in the office; however, it became increasingly close to the skin and quieter later on, which is not a disadvantage on a warm day.
Parfum: Wow! It has been on my skin for 10 hours now and is still very present in the HEART NOTE. Although the harmonizing effect of the amber has already set in and the citrus punchiness of the opening has faded, the intensity and depth are still extremely noticeable.
SILLAGE:
EDP: The first hour is very strong; in the further course, it becomes more intimate, and after 6 hours, the fragrance is only perceptible with a lot of imagination.
Parfum: In the first two to three hours, it is very, very strong (in the first hour even room-filling), then for up to eight hours, it is very noticeably present, and afterwards, it becomes a close-to-skin scent with the tendency to still impress those nearby.
APPLICATION AREAS/SEASON:
EDP: A great all-rounder in spring and summer, on warm days with plenty of sunshine and hot weather. Suitable for the office, at the beach, in the city, in a café, you name it…
Parfum: Due to the intensity and strength in summer, it is more suitable for after sunset. Perfect for a balmy evening on vacation. It would surely be wonderful after a hot day when the night slowly cools the air. Perfect for dinner, a date, or dancing. However, I can also imagine the fragrance very well during the day in spring/fall, maybe even in the office if applied discreetly.
CONCLUSION:
The EDP is a really great fragrance that embodies the lightness of being on a hot summer day. Bright, zesty, extroverted, and yet elegant, relaxed, and calm. Despite some unexpected facets, the fragrance (probably) never offends and is the perfect go-to with style and elegance. The longevity of about 6 hours is okay for a summer fragrance, but in spring/fall, it is rather suboptimal.
The Parfum is also a very great fragrance, but rather for the evening and/or during the day in spring/fall. Dark, mysterious, edgy, bitter, and masculine while also being interesting, robust, and loud. Very straightforward, without surprises, intense, and strong. Longevity is fantastic.
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